Ok well my Dart decided to burnup my fusible link so I bought a cheap one from a Auto Parts Store and has a 30 amp fuse and everytime I try making a complete connection it burns the fuse up like nothing flat. And I just put in a new alternator but haven't even started it with the new one in cause of this short circuit. But I bought a factory replacement fusible link from yearone since its way better then the cheaper but can anybody help me or give me suggestions to find the short circuit causing it most likely? Also before my link burned up I was driving it back in town and it seemed to be smoking inside then suddenly my turn signal flasher went bad so wouldn't blink so would that be a good place to start first or just bad luck to have everything break at once?
Where is this problem coming from?
- Thread starter Mo Power
- Start date
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70Duster440
Well-Known Member
You've got a short to ground somewhere. You mentioned installing a new alternator. Make sure the big stud on the back where the main wire is connected isn't touching anything.
Inspect the harness starting at the fusible link and trace the wires. You could disconnect the bulkhead connectors and try a new link to rule out the dash harness.
The fusible link is doing it's job. It should be like a 16 GA link, not a fuse. And the auto parts store ones are fine.
Inspect the harness starting at the fusible link and trace the wires. You could disconnect the bulkhead connectors and try a new link to rule out the dash harness.
The fusible link is doing it's job. It should be like a 16 GA link, not a fuse. And the auto parts store ones are fine.
dusterdon
Well-Known Member
pull all of the fuses and see if it burns up again. If not, replace the fuses 1 by 1 to see where the problem lies.
camd64
Remember Landy
Do like dusterdon said. it will only cost you a couple bucks in burned up fuses but it will tell you what circuit is bad and save you a big headache.
Well I removed all the fuses inside and when a put the new fuse in the fusible link and tryed to connect it again bam it blew the fuse. So now where can the problem be coming from what I'm afraid is the switch the wires around on the alternator causing the short.
70Duster440
Well-Known Member
Like I said, you need to try and isolate and inspect things. Check out the simple diagram here: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
You could still have a short in the dash harness somewhere where removing fuses won't help. One of the bulkhead connectors could have gone into meltdown, causing a short. Start with something as simple as removing the main cable from the alternator (making sure the end of the cable doesn't touch anything) and see if you still blow your link fuse.
If you didn't start blowing the link till after you installed the alternator, then you need to be checking those connections first.
You could still have a short in the dash harness somewhere where removing fuses won't help. One of the bulkhead connectors could have gone into meltdown, causing a short. Start with something as simple as removing the main cable from the alternator (making sure the end of the cable doesn't touch anything) and see if you still blow your link fuse.
If you didn't start blowing the link till after you installed the alternator, then you need to be checking those connections first.
Ok well I found out that the main alternator wire was grounding itself to the back of it since there was no plastic spacer seperating it from the nut. But now that it runs and I let it run for 10 mins and when I turn it off and want to start it again its like completly dead now whats going on do I have the other wires on the alternator switched around cause whats causing this? Help please
70Duster440
Well-Known Member
Glad you found the short. The push-on connectors are the field wires and it doesn't matter which goes where. If there's only one field wire and two terminals on the alternator, then you need a jumper wire to connect the two field terminals.
Is the "new" alternator actually new or just different? What's the story on your battery - new, old?
Is the "new" alternator actually new or just different? What's the story on your battery - new, old?
Theres field wires on both terminals and the battery haven't had for no longer then 6 months. But there is like a major hack job on the major wire of the alternator and I've been thinking if thats what isnt being able to generate power. Alternator I got bout month and a half ago and its rebuilt one as well.
Heres the hackjob just dont know what I'll have to put in its place if I cut the whole thing off. And the fusible link I don't know what I'm suppsoe to do the thing it has nothing to clip on to and won't hold without a clip that was suppose to be there.
You mean it will run off its own power without dying or having a battery charger on it? Cause it ran for over 10 mins and didnt die and I had no charger on it but when I tryed to restart it nothing at all would happen when I turned the key over so it might of died if I would of kept it running.
norshorblufish
By the Big Water
don't forget to check the ballast resistor too.
elvaliant66
Well-Known Member
It's usually a white ceramic 2 prong resistor usually next to the bulkhead connectors and starter relay
7 year itch
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
By the way, guys the above advice IS NOT HOW to find shorts. Continuing to re-install and burning out fuses and maybe wiring is not how you do this.
Remove the battery ground cable. Insert some sort of lamp in series. Go 'round and make sure everything is shut off. Remove fuses one at a time until the lamp goes out. If the lamp does NOT go out, unhook the alternator. If that doesn't remove the short, refer to the diagram and find what's left that could cause a short. Headlight circuit. Added stereo. Whatever.
Sometimes a 12V test lamp is not the best choice for this. An old headlight. A tail lamp bulb. You can wire a stop/ tail lamp several ways to "create" various current conditions.
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