WHICH CAM

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I have a 1979 360 cu in V8 in my 76 Dart Sport which develops around 350 HP. It has an Edelbrock 650 carb, 9 to 1 compression, .40 overbore a hi performance unnamed cam with no numbers and not much more. What would be a good cam to wake up this combo a bit?
A bigger one than you have! LOL
really you got to pull it out and put in micrometer on it and see what you have. You're going to do it anyways if you change it?
 
When my 410 Stroker with dual quad tunnel ram had a real nasty cam in it with stock heads I was probably getting about 376 horsepower to the back wheels. That's timeslips not somebody's Dyno..
So a stock is 360 getting 350 horsepower I'm not sure which more you're asking out of it...
 
I'm outta here! Poof!
A bit like a PLATE SYSTEM NITROUS BACKFIRE...:p
Which no-ones suggested for best instant (literally) bang for the buck.
(IF the guy IS genuine)
Trev.

Screenshot_2019-03-10-06-12-00.png
 
great motor AMC will take 1500 hp for 500 miles
however
OP
besides degreeing the cam
advance it 4 degrees and test
then retard 4 degrees and test
report
you need to know which way to jump and how far
no mater what your current cam is
do this before you tear it out
cheers
 
heads are not ported are they?
650 should be fine with stock heads (till we know the cam - did he post headers and exhaust\\larger carb doesnot help much if exhaust restricted\
by much I mean midrange, do not want to loose any torque there
but you are spot on the cusp AJ
 
OK converter
but which "stock one"
the high stall (340 style) or the low stall 318 style
OP do a stall test and let us know what RPM it stalls at
We did testing for Chrysler back in the day and found that more than one size larger duration than the HP cam required a converter change/ gears (but 355 OK)
that said- that was when compression was high
When compression was dropped the Magnum/ 340 style cams became real dogs off the line/ around town so the factory started putting higher stall converters even in non HP (small cam) motors- still low end was so bad with the HP cams that mostly what you got was heat- you had to use so much throttle to go anywhere
So it's a crap shoot what you have
The factory HP/340 cam is way obsolete- like a 50 year old grind the closing ramps are real slow (to prevent valve train noise before the warranty ran out)
This makes a really late intake close point and kills dynamic compression, the exhaust gives way too much overlap a lot of this is below the data point so it does not show on the durations- but they are really long for the lift given.
You can do better but do your homework first
If you do have a stock low stall converter the 204 degree at .050 suggestion fits- if over .300 cam lift that's over .450 valve lift several choices that's in the range of stock duration with a much fatter deeper breathing lobe- but too early to suggest some people like low stall converters with the right cam
 
did he post a dyno sheet or time slips IDK what his current torque curve is
a low stall converter with a 350HP motor is a mismatch
 
When my 410 Stroker with dual quad tunnel ram had a real nasty cam in it with stock heads I was probably getting about 376 horsepower to the back wheels. That's timeslips not somebody's Dyno..
So a stock is 360 getting 350 horsepower I'm not sure which more you're asking out of it...
350 HP at the crank not at the wheels.
 
Did the reputable shop provide an invoice with part numbers for what they used in the motor?
If so...... there’s the missing cam info.

Many many years ago I went through a pretty fresh 360, also built by a reputable builder.
It was also touted as 9:1 and “close to 400hp”.
Well, it was a serious dud...... so I was tasked with seeing if I could perk it up.

First up was a compression test....... 105-110psi on all cylinders.

It had a really long slow cam in it, which wasn’t helping matters.

I messed with the distributor and carb...... got it running as good as I could, and told him it would have to come apart if he wanted it better than that.
He drove if for another 2 summers, then brought it to the engine shop where I was working at the time.
I tore it down and discovered an unmilled block, unmilled heads, 8553 gaskets, and dished trw pistons.
It was 7.7:1cr with an Edelbrock camshaft(the bigger one, Torker plus??).
Edit: they don’t sell the Torker Plus SB Mopar cam anymore(no loss), but I was able to find the specs;
306/[email protected]
222/[email protected]
.447/.450 lift
112lsa

So much for the reputable shop.
 
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did he post a dyno sheet or time slips IDK what his current torque curve is
a low stall converter with a 350HP motor is a mismatch
NB:A "Low Stall Convertor" isn't FIXED at the Lower Stall eg 318 std Convertor; A gruntier/torqueier Engine WILL flash a lower Stall rated Convertor Higher ! They don't just go to 1800rpm & stop there: if you stuck a plate system Nitrous on that engine you may find that Std Stall 'vertor Flash's up to 2300-2400rpm briefly.

That's how we got the P/glide trans engines down under honking: used 4cyl Convertors in the I6's & I6's in the V8's for the Drags (sometimes req extra mounting tabs/ears welding on the Convertor Sides/fronts)

Duck ! - incominggggg :p.
 
J-G it will be hard to get more power without doing a fair amount of changes that you don't want to do yet . a good tune up is a start , was your distributor ever dialed in , there can be power found there and also better throttle response .
 
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