Which Chevy fenderwell headers suit (early) A-body best?

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Just throwing this out there if you interested in Big Block Mopar vintage JR coated fender well coated I got a pair....also have slip tube small block super comps 1 7/8 3.5 collection no flanges.....got some 1 3/4 hustlers slip tube small block with stainless merge collectors
Could you send me more details with PM, and would you be willing to ship them overseas?
 
Oh crap. I just saw you are in Finland.

That makes the job a good bit more difficult.

I wish I could tell you of a header that with a flange change would fit or even be close.

I guess maybe it might be worth looking into fender well headers for the 67 and up A’s and maybe sectioning the tubes a bit to make them not go out and hit the inside of the outer fender.

I’m just not sure how doable that is or how doable and how much work it would be if you tried a Chevy II header and cut the flanges.

I suppose if you found Chevy headers that were close and you change the flange you could section and shorten the tubes where they come off the flange, and used the sectioned pieces from passenger side header and section those pieces into the drivers side header.

I’m just throwing out horrible ideas because that’s all I’ve got.

Sorry about that.
The funny (well maybe not so funny) thing is, I SWEAR I found sbm fenderwells on Speedway's site, a few weeks ago, and when this thread started, I looked again to find them.... and they were gone.
If gunslinger wasn't in Finland, it might be worth a phone call to see if Speedway actually has a set on the shelf somewhere. (If memory serves they were "67-72 A body" in the description)
 
If you are looking at early ChevyII/Nova headers, keep in mind that the 63-65 Nova/ChevyII had different front suspension set ups that the 66-67 models.
 

I'd agree with others that the chevy 2/nova headers would probably be a better choice than the shoebox/55-57 headers.

Yes, Mopar's engines are offset a bit compared to a chevy, but you can compensate for that by where you cut the tubes for the new flange.

Its definitely worth doing additional research to see if you can find any layout information on the chevy headers. Maybe see if you can find any gasser or vintage drag race forums that may have users that have these installed in a car and can take some measurements. You might have to move the master cylinder a bit to allow more space, but a machined plate could create that move without too much hassle.

Another thought, Speedway does list big block fenderwell headers as available for order from Hooker. Since big blocks have the same siamesed center ports as a small block, maybe use these with a new small block flange. Or maybe Hooker could provide some more detailed dimension information. Of course they are around $800, so not exactly cheap to experiment with, and I'm not sure of compatibility with an early A engine bay, but at least they are configured family to family.
 
I'd agree with others that the chevy 2/nova headers would probably be a better choice than the shoebox/55-57 headers.

Yes, Mopar's engines are offset a bit compared to a chevy, but you can compensate for that by where you cut the tubes for the new flange.

Its definitely worth doing additional research to see if you can find any layout information on the chevy headers. Maybe see if you can find any gasser or vintage drag race forums that may have users that have these installed in a car and can take some measurements. You might have to move the master cylinder a bit to allow more space, but a machined plate could create that move without too much hassle.

Another thought, Speedway does list big block fenderwell headers as available for order from Hooker. Since big blocks have the same siamesed center ports as a small block, maybe use these with a new small block flange. Or maybe Hooker could provide some more detailed dimension information. Of course they are around $800, so not exactly cheap to experiment with, and I'm not sure of compatibility with an early A engine bay, but at least they are configured family to family.

An easy way to see if it’s possible to use a big block header is to lay a small block gasket on a big block gasket and see how far off the outer ports.

IIRC the bore spacing on a SB 4.400 and I think the bb is 4.800 or 4.840.

I think the 4.840 is for Pro Stock bore spacing now that I think about it.

At any rate I think the outer ports are too far apart to force the tubes to fit in a SB flange.
 
The port layout of a small chevy and a small mopar are very similar.
I think a big block mopar to small block mopar might be tougher.
I went to a car show this morning, saw a Studebaker Lark gasser with a bbc swapped in. I asked the owner which headers he used (if he remembered) and he said he thought they were early box Nova swap headers (no box novas, 62-67 with factory big blocks)
If the small blocks are shaped similar, I think they would be my choice for a modification attempt. Just get the uncoated version..... and have at it!
 
Yes, the big block ports are spaced wider than the small block ports. The gasket overlay suggestion above is a good way to see the difference. IMO, the reason why these may be more suitable than chevy headers is they are designed for the mopar chassis and unlike an under chassis header, fenderwell headers will have much straighter tubes coming out of the ports and have a longer tube sections before a bend to allow them to be pulled into the small block port layout. However, they also are going to be much larger diameter tubes than may be desired.

In either case, big block mopar or small block chevy, I doubt this is as simple as cut the flange off and reweld a new one. There may be additional nip and cut and welding required to get all the tubes to clear everything. But either one would be easier than making a custom set from scratch, at least for us average enthusiasts.
 
I remember reading that even though 75110 are no longer listed, if you call they will make them for you. Has anyone called ?
 
I remember reading that even though 75110 are no longer listed, if you call they will make them for you. Has anyone called ?
I contacted them earlier this year vie email and asked about the availability. They told me that they are moving the location of the manufacturing plant, and it was still open which products resume production in the new plant. I just messaged them again to ask if they have any new info.
 
Perhaps...not what you are looking for
but one of the most space constrained engine bays on an A body is the Right hand drive valiant in Australia

Australian headers may be an option

they will get round an automatic trans starter on the LHD, drivers side of the engine,,,but might need rework for the steering box

they are designed to get round a brake booster and a steering box on the LHD narrow passenger side which of course doesn't have the RHD brake booster and steering box crammed in to that space on your car

a chat with pacemaker for just the parts you need may work.

passenger side from one company and drivers side modified or from another company....
not ideal but might work

Products

Castle Auto Electonics (CAE) in australia also used to do a shorty block hugger header kit

this was a flange a set of pipes and a collector flange + collector parts
everything was too long and you adjusted it to fit
tacked it together and then got it professionally welded

can't find the advert anymore but CAE still exists (selling starters, ring gears and FI) and will still have the jig and the ability to make them... they just must not have been a popular line as the whole Castle Auto headers website is currently offline....
an email or a call might result in some parts

www.caeperformanceproducts.com.au - EFI Conversions

Dave
 
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Don't know if he's still around, but Herby Gebler made the set for my 65 Dart 340 that wound up on my room mates 65 Barracuda. He was in the Baltimore, Laurel area
 
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