which heads on a 318

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Saetun

Sinister Swinger
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I've begun a to compile a few pieces to upgrade my 318 & need some advice on which head actually is best for the goals I have in mind. Ultimately, I'd like to build a car with good throttle response, which sounds good at idle (read; more agressive than stock) which can still handle freeway speeds (70-75) at a reasonable RPM. Really just gonna cruise it with a little "spirited" driving thrown in however, I'd like to end up with a finished product making 300-320 HP. Here is what I've done & items on my wish list, i'm specifically interested in head choice at this point for my desired goal.

current upgrades:
Holley 600 cfm http://www.holley.com/0-80457S.asp
Edelbrock Peformer Intake http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2176/

Cams to consider:
Comp Cams 224/230 @.050 Dur 477/480 lift http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K20-223-3/

Summit Racing Cam 218/228 @.050 Dur 441 lift http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K6901/

Headers:
Doug's http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DOU-D453-R/


I'm unsure if the stock heads with this setup, bored exhuast valve to 1.60 will be my best bet. Or, if a 302 casting would be better due to swirled ports or even maybe a set of 360 heads like a 915 casting with the 1.88"/1.60" valves would help me reach the goals I have in mind. Thx for the feedback.
 
You can get to around 300 hp with the stock small valve heads. I would say what heads to use depends on your plans for the car. The comp cam listed will have more of an idle, I have used the summit cam before and it works nice with the stock heads but you will need correct valve springs either way. What gear ratio you plan on running would make a difference too. My current set up is .030 318, small valve heads, 340 cam and valve springs, old street master 318 intake running a 600 holley, set up advance curve, msd ignition, dual exhaust with manifolds. I run either 2.76 or 3.23 gearing, and with the 2.76 gears it gets 20 mpg on the highway easy and is a 15 second car(15.6}. It will run high 14's (14.9) with the 3.23's but millage drops off. If your going to go with steep gears someday and a more radical set up I would go with the 340 heads but milled some to get the compression back up or even some magnum heads.
 
Iv'e read a few folks who swear that the 360 heads are the way to go on the 318 builds does anyone have any input one way or the other? i've also heard both schools of thought on the 2.02 intake valves, that they are too much for the 318 & others, including popular hotrodding, say they work very well, thoughts?
 
For what it sounds like the type of driving you'll be doing in your car,302's all the way.340/360 big port heads do give you a bit more top end power (5000+ rpms)but at the expense of the bottom end torque and throttle response you'll want the other 99.9% of the time.

If you want the engine to turn reasonable RPMs at freeway speeds and you're running a non-overdrive trans,you'll need either 2.76 or 2.94 rear gears which really need the low end torque to get the car moving.I'd go with the milder of the two cams listed as well.


ps Your glovebox is on it's way to you.
 
"302" casting, upped to 1.88/1.60 valves mild porting and go...

X's2!

Iv'e read a few folks who swear that the 360 heads are the way to go on the 318 builds does anyone have any input one way or the other? i've also heard both schools of thought on the 2.02 intake valves, that they are too much for the 318 & others, including popular hotrodding, say they work very well, thoughts?

While the mag's often dyno test there engines to show/prove there combo's worthyness, actual real world driving and overall feel of the engine is not what you think the dyno test would have you think and feel it is.

You can use a 2.02 valve in a 318. I have used it and in 360 heads before. I like the 318 head on a 318. Much nicer and much more responsive.
Also, upgrading the valve size on a 318 for use with 360 valves is a really nice improvement. Then here comes the catch 22 area.

Bowl porting the 318 head. IMO, this is a great move for the lil'engine. But the 360 head kind of comes in the winner for certain builds. One, being (light-med) drag racing. It's cheaper and more cost effective on a high end 318. Low end response is not needed and actually, mostly ignored.

MoPar has done tests in the past that have showed a 318 head is better than a 360 on top of the 318 and shown it so well, they offered a ported 318 head for the 318 guys.

Power out put on the build was 55 HP greater than a 360 head.

But that is expensive ting to port a head when a OOTB head "Could" fit the bill.
furz4, makes an excellent point.
My last build of a 318 was this all day.
It will run high 14's (14.9) with the 3.23's but millage drops off
 
Much appreciated, looks like concensus is I should keep my eye out for a set of 302's & valve porting might not be a bad idea for what I have in mind. Now, just to find a set.

GT, what about the mopar perfomance purple cam,

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4452782/

would that be a better choice still?

Thx.
 
340/360 big port heads do give you a bit more top end power (5000+ rpms)but at the expense of the bottom end torque and throttle response you'll want the other 99.9% of the time.

I thought it was the other way around. Better low end torque and loss of power up top.
 
Saetun, I've read alot of times, that 340 cam you have linked there comes in with rave reviews. I think opinions on cams are about as abundunt as underwear and sock in your draw.
 
I thought it was the other way around. Better low end torque and loss of power up top.

Umm no. 360 head has large ports. This creates an "eddie" effect,where air and fuel drop out of the stream and become sluggish. Small port heads are much better for small bore engines.The 360 head also has a large combustion chamber that unless milled will drastically drop compression.Chambers can be as big as 78cc.

I agree with the 302 casting head choice. It has a nice heart shaped chamber that if you properly set it up for quench should give a bit more power plus gives good detonation protection. Det protection is more important than you may think as det can cause cast hyper pistons to shatter,hammers bearings etc.
Fit 1.88 valves to the 302 head and thats PLENTY of air for a street teen.

Chamber is small,I think it is under 60cc.

There is also the magnum head. It is a mid size port,bigger than the 302,not as big as an la 360 head. Has small combustion chamber 64cc but takes a few extra $$ to swap on to an la block as you need specific head bolts and hollow pushrods.


I really like that 340 cam. It will give good gas mileage and good power. The trick is the wide lsa combined with a decent amount of lift.

I also like to just use bigger valves in the stock teen head,with pocket porting and gasket match for a street motor. This is a true budget head build!
 
Here's something to consider:
I did a /6 to a 318 swap because I had a teen in my '72 when I was 18 yrs old. And besides, a basket case 318 was in the trunk of the '72 duster that my wife got me for Christmas in 2010.
.040 over, K.B flat top pistons, Comp Cam 20-223-3 cam - 268/280 with .477/.480, RHS Indy 360 X heads 1.920"/1.624", Comp Cams 137 lb behive springs, Comp Cam roller tip rockers, Edlebrock 9176 Performer intake, Holley dbl pumper 650 carb with metering plates, Holley mech fuel pump, Hooker 9501 ceramic headers coated inside and out, balanced and blueprinted.
 

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I have both 302/675 318 heads and I also have a flow bench, the diff between the 2 is the closed/heart shaped chamber on the 302 heads.

You can easily achieve 300+hp with stock'ish heads, and those stock'ish heads ported go into the 200's fairly easily.

I ported 1 intake port and compared it to the stock port, big diff from with it going from a stock 160's cfm to 200cfm, the exhaust has tons of meat and will make 140's cfm real quick, thats 360 head flow right there but without the large everything that comes with them, but like rumble said...depending on the rpm/usage 'to be general'...the 360 head does have the volume offering to higher rpms and the 'just bolt it on and go' appeal when the rest is matched.
 
Wild, are you saying for the goals I'm interested in achieving that you would forego the 302's & stick with what I've got & just open up the intake & exhaust ports? Would you increase the stock valve size to 1.88/1.60 or just a little bowl blending on that front?
 
Depends on your ability.
Like I said, I can get the numbers through a stock size valve.

But if 6000+rpm shifts are your thing, maybe the added area of 1.88 intake valves would be better for you.

I am thinking you'll be good with the stock sizes, if you can do the port work.

My numbers are without doing a performance Valve job, just the tired factory angles, the performance valve jog would increase the numbers to my knowledge.

Btw eddies or 'swirllys' can send backwash pulses that cause/create a road block, it's the dead/slow air as opposed to the fast moving air found when the air passes around obsticals and crashes into it's self like dead pools in rivers and where the drift wood jsut spins around in the same spot, stuck there, the crashing may or may not create fuel drop out, the dead spots however do not promote suspension thats for sure.
Other porters I have talked to mention eddies in the sense of pulses so to speak that send back flow which makes a road block, they ,from what Im told can come about from the the air after passing the valve hits the parting line of the head/gasket/block deck and falls to crap with the air blasting off everywhere and creating another road block for the rest of the moving air behind it, it's just air crashing into air.
None the less....it's not good.
 
If you buy an eddie head it comes only with the big 340 ports.

I have 3.91 gears and put 308 big port 360 heads with 2.02 intakes and the 318 felt better ALL around, upper and lower rpm..but lower with 3.91, 26 inch tires is 3,000 it seems.

Oh I get 10 mpg on the freeway going 75 mph..little motor spins 4,250 but it seems to like it..too bad gas isn't a buck a gallon.

Listen to these guys, you will want 20 mpg cause gas is going to $5..if not higher.
 
As guys have suggested if you want to keep the HP in the 300-325 range your best bet is a set of 302 heads. I would go for the 1.88 & 1.60 valves and have a good valve job and bowl cut/blend done. Gives best compression bump and flow for the $ spent. Match what you stated to a 340ish cam and 3.23 - 3.55 gears.

Magnum heads would be second choice. Higher compression + larger valves and flow from the factory. Cost is the issue, after you purchase these heads you will also need lifters (AMC) and pushrods for through the pushrod oiling of the valve gear, Magnum valve covers, Magnum valve gear, Magnum head bolts and a Magnum intake (Performer/Performer RPM). Starts to add up.

340/360 heads would be my choice if you wanted more power than your stated goal. The problem with these heads is the combustion chamber volume, they are all large: +/- 74ish cc. To really take advantage of these heads on a 318 you need pistons to raise the compression to an appropriate level to support HP levels in the 350 plus range. They would need quite a bit of milling and that causes other issues that have to be addressed.

I may be wrong but I don't think stock 318 heads will support your HP goal without lots of work.

The only draw back to 318's is torque. This is why most would steer you towards a 340/360. More cubic inches = more torque. To make HP you need air flow and an appropriate level of compression. The more HP you want out of the 'teen the more you need to increase the rpm to get the flow volume & velocity up. At low rpm power dies because of the big intake track volume but slow velocity. Think sewer pipe vs garden hose. To keep the engine in a happy rpm range and driveable on the street you have to increase the converter stall, rear end gearing, exhaust system, ect. You get 400 HP braggin rites but your stuck with a 3000 stall converter and 4.10 gears. Your "street rod" just became a "track rod".

The key to a powerful 318 is in the "packaging". The whole car has to work together in harmony. Here's my combination, it's snappy at low rpm, cruises around 3000 rpm at freeway speeds and is just fun to drive everywhere: '65 Cuda, '89 318 police motor (360 heads but with pistons for increased compression), 650 Holley, LD 340 intake, spitfire headers into 3" single exhaust, electronic distributor and orange box, 999 trans (904 with additional clutches and 2.76 low gear set), 2300 stall converter, 3.55 rear gear, 60 series 15" tires. Its all balanced and works together.
 
What ever head you go with be sure to use an intake with runners sized for that head. The bolt pattern is the same on all LA heads but intake ports vary in size (340/360 bigger than 318 & "302" heads) so you can end up with a flow killing port missmatch at the intake/head junction. Magnum heads require a Magnum intake so no problem with missmatch there.
 
I know I started this thread to get info on heads, but i'm really trying to put together a package thats compliments itself. I came across a good deal on this cam:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-150052/

numbers are comparable to the 340 cam with slightly higher lift.

Anyone have any feedback if this cam would fit the goal I have in mind?

~Sae
 
As guys have suggested if you want to keep the HP in the 300-325 range your best bet is a set of 302 heads. I would go for the 1.88 & 1.60 valves and have a good valve job and bowl cut/blend done. Gives best compression bump and flow for the $ spent. Match what you stated to a 340ish cam and 3.23 - 3.55 gears.

Magnum heads would be second choice. Higher compression + larger valves and flow from the factory. Cost is the issue, after you purchase these heads you will also need lifters (AMC) and pushrods for through the pushrod oiling of the valve gear, Magnum valve covers, Magnum valve gear, Magnum head bolts and a Magnum intake (Performer/Performer RPM). Starts to add up.

340/360 heads would be my choice if you wanted more power than your stated goal. The problem with these heads is the combustion chamber volume, they are all large: +/- 74ish cc. To really take advantage of these heads on a 318 you need pistons to raise the compression to an appropriate
level to support HP levels in the 350 plus range. They would need quite a bit of milling and that causes other issues that have to be addressed.

I may be wrong but I don't think stock 318 heads will support your HP goal without lots of work.

The only draw back to 318's is torque. This is why most would steer you towards a 340/360. More cubic inches = more torque. To make HP you need air flow and an appropriate level of compression. The more HP you want out of the 'teen the more you need to increase the rpm to get the flow volume & velocity up. At low rpm power dies because of the big intake track volume but slow velocity. Think sewer pipe vs garden hose. To keep the engine in a happy rpm range and driveable on the street you have to increase the converter stall, rear end gearing, exhaust system, ect. You get 400 HP braggin rites but your stuck with a 3000 stall converter and 4.10 gears. Your "street rod" just became a "track rod".

The key to a powerful 318 is in the "packaging". The whole car has to work together in harmony. Here's my combination, it's snappy at low rpm, cruises around 3000 rpm at freeway speeds and is just fun to drive everywhere: '65 Cuda, '89 318 police motor (360 heads but with pistons for increased compression), 650 Holley, LD 340 intake, spitfire headers into 3" single exhaust, electronic distributor and orange box, 999 trans (904 with additional clutches and 2.76 low gear set), 2300 stall converter, 3.55 rear gear, 60 series 15" tires. Its all balanced and works together.

Stock 318 heads flow 165'ishcfm stock, that 165 x 2 =330hp capability.
Yes but Its not an issue of velocity with lil motors making bigger hp, it's simply more rpm's cause they have to do more work to get the same accomplished and torque starts coming from more gear out back....more rpm does not need as much velocity as does certain low rpm/off idle app's, it just needs the proportional flow, with increasing flow in a cylinder head comes more volume, it's a by product.
fwiw ...stock 675-124cc int port, after some porting to the 200cfm range that same port=132cc
The mag heads are uni sex between the 318/360, which IS the reason why those mag 318's are really soft, if you've owned/driven one, you'd know.

Velocity...Thats the problem with a lot of stock heads, there is too much velocity...so much they have trouble supporting the potential flow that passes through , the air no longer flows with the port and just separates from the port shape and starts crashing around dragging the what flows left with it therefore decreasing flow.They/some need more cross section imo.
Too much is a bad thing.
I own a flow bench and I have 302's,675's,974's,915's,894's,906's,slant heads new and old.....So I know what they flow.
The 302 head flows the same as the 675 head or any other 318 heads for that matter 'as stock'
Granted there is a change in air speed between the 340 vs 318 port, this is where we need to start figuring out what rpm range he will be driving in, the cam....the whole combo.
Are you gonna be driving below 2000 rpm all the time?
Do you race under 2000rpm?
Have the OP considered the gear he will use and where 'with tire size' it put him in the range, he may find that the 3.91 gears & 26'' tire has him cruising 2200+ rpm.


Like you say and give example with your own combo=you can use 675 or a 302 head or even a 340 head...you just have to build around it, like with your low gear tranny,high comp pistons and stall convertor..
The only diff between the 675 & 302 is the closed 64cc chamber of the 302 vs the 68cc open of the 675.
One minor detail is the fact that unless he rebuilds the 318 and installs flat top zero deck pistons..the closed chamber does nothing in the area of quench=detonation resistance & faster burn, it just raises the comp a lil more which is still good, but instead of buying new 302 heads that flow the same as the heads he has, he could just mill his 675 heads down .020 to 64cc and slap them back on with whatever other machine work deemed necessary.
With only milling .020, there'd be no issue with intake fit.
 
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