Who has Dr. Diff 8 3/4 rear discs?

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Thanks @72bluNblu , I don't have any piece of the parking brake installed. That's what has me nervous. Il see what I have.

Oh I see, that does make it more work. But still totally doable with the car assembled. More of a pain, but not impossible by any means.

If DoctorDiff doesn't sell the rest of the parking brake cables and hardware I know inline tube does, I bought the cables for my Challenger from them.
 
This photo of my car may help give you an idea of how the cables look with a Dr Diff Rear Disc kit, the rest of the handbrake cable assy is factory, just bear in mind that my car is RHD.

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Oh I see, that does make it more work. But still totally doable with the car assembled. More of a pain, but not impossible by any means.

If DoctorDiff doesn't sell the rest of the parking brake cables and hardware I know inline tube does, I bought the cables for my Challenger from them.

Thanks! I put out a want ad. Maybe I'll get lucky. @Oldmanmopar had a creampuff of a 71? Dart that he parted a few months ago, maybe he'll chime in. :)
 
I'm working on installing the Dr Diff brake cables tonight on his Rear Brake kit. I'll let you know how it goes. Mine wanted to rub on the leaf spring so I used a clamp from the E Brake cable to the U Bolt. It will keep the cable up as in the photo.

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I found an ebrake cable setup but it's from a 69 barracuda. Will the WB difference from my 70 make a difference?
 
E Brake cable is unique for this rear disk setup. Your best bet is Cass @ Dr Diff.

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Look close on this skid. You can spot the E Brake cable. It's the only photo I have of it.

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I got the ebrake cables coming from him (from the calipers to the factory equalizer)

I just don't have the factory e brake cable or equalizer.
 
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I have the 11.75 kit and I have a loop that is above the bleeder, which in general is NOT an issue because the MC is higher than the calipers.

I doubt highly you need the cables attached to bleed either. My suggestion is that you use the two person bleeding method with clear tubing, and a glass jar or pop bottle that is submerged with fluid. Then you need to do the pump up, apply, open bleeder, floor, close bleeder method.

The last ditch effort is to apply the pedal to some heavy amount of pedal apply, block it on, leave it sit overnight and then re-bleed. This is a sure-fire method. I'm an engineer (and have been for over 15 years) at OEM automotive suppliers and this is how we get the air out of our incredibly complicated and hard to bleed test equipment.

I will mention also that until that coating is worn off the rotors from driving it, the output of the brakes will be lower than what they would otherwise be.
 
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I have the 11.75 kit and I have a loop that is above the bleeder, which in general is NOT an issue because the MC is higher than the calipers.

I doubt highly you need the cables attached to bleed either. My suggestion is that you use the two person bleeding method with clear tubing, and a glass jar or pop bottle that is submerged with fluid. Then you need to do the pump up, apply, open bleeder, floor, close bleeder method.

The last ditch effort is to apply the pedal to some heavy amount of pedal apply, block it on, leave it sit overnight and then re-bleed. This is a sure-fire method. I'm an engineer (and have been for over 15 years) at OEM automotive suppliers and this is how we get the air out of our incredibly complicated and hard to bleed test equipment.

I will mention also that until that coating is worn off the rotors from driving it, the output of the brakes will be lower than what they would otherwise be.

Thanks for the reply. I did everything that you said. I blocked the pedal to the seat (power seat) and did the two person method.

The rear wheels slow, but dont completely stop, so having the parking brake in and adjusted makes sense to me.

I ordered a set of cables from Dr. Diff and they attach to the factory equalizer. I just need to find the correct handle and cable.
 
Mine crosses over the trans. So I have 2 equal length cables coming off my calipers
 
Ok that must've started in 72. Im just not sure if a short wheelbase 69 barracuda will fit my 70 Dart

I know my ‘71 has a cable that just runs down the drivers side and the parking brake cables split from a bracket on the rear frame rail, so there’s a short cable and then a much longer cable the runs the from the drivers side to the passenger side.

My ‘74 has the large bare “U” shaped cable that crosses over the transmission, so the parking brake cables are the same length.

I doubt the barracuda cable would work, I would think the extra 3” in wheelbase on the Dart would make the cable too short.
 
My 1972 Dart also has the bare U shape cable as in my earlier pics.
 
My 1972 Dart also has the bare U shape cable as in my earlier pics.

Yeah that’s exactly what mine looks like. My ‘72 Challenger is the same way, although I’m sure the “U” cable is a different length on the E body.
 
Ok after digging through my stuff, I have the handle, the pin that holds the handle up, the equalizer and the clamp. I probably could just source a nut and a bolt to secure it. I am not sure what other hardware I need.
I found this cable online. More Information for RAYBESTOS BC92320

After looking through this thread, I think I only need the grommet. Emergency brake cable routing
 
I have a 68 Dart parts car next to my shop. I'll look under it tomorrow and let you know if the e brake stufff is there. It should be clean because the car lived in k falls most of it's life. I live North of Rogue River.
 
I have a 68 Dart parts car next to my shop. I'll look under it tomorrow and let you know if the e brake stufff is there. It should be clean because the car lived in k falls most of it's life. I live North of Rogue River.

That would be killer! Thanks!!
 
Finished mine up last nite. Tires are only for mock up. I'm going with the Goodyear PolyGlass E70 14

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