Who makes Marquette welders?

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pishta

I know I'm right....
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Im going to pick up a Marquette 12150 plasma cutter (3015 Plasma Cutting System..) Its a big old 35A model but I know jack about the brand. Seems like its an OEM for names like Snap-on, Miller, Century...? Its non-functional but has a new torch, dirt cheap! I hope its something with the controller board that I can repair. It may be made in Italy from other models (12151) in the line which I think is worth about $2 more than Chinese....but $$$ more in consumables.
 
They were good quality. So much so that Lincoln bought them out.
 
Rusty is correct. Century made Marquette, Solar and Century along with many of the Snap on stuff. Lincoln bought them out a few years ago and handles the parts for them. Some stuff is obsolete but most parts can be sourced. Once you pick it up let me know what kind of symptoms you see with it.
 
FWIW...Italian electronics have been amongst the tops in design and quality in Europe for quite a while. I would not be scared of their products at all. Except for old Fiats and Alfa's LOL

IIRC, my TIG welder comes from Italy.
 
My MIG is an Italian job too, a "Dual Mig 131" that everyone puts a much needed fan into. My $50 plasma seems to have a sensor issue as it doesnt want to keep an arc. It a pilot arc start. I can get 3 of 4 relays operational but not all at once. the one I cant get to kick is the transformer relay. I can cheat it by removing a lead from the air pressure servo and touching it back while holding the trigger, then I get an arc and a cut but only by doing that. Brand new S45 torch, thats $250 right there !
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Marquette M12150 mystery solved....I got the wrong torch head! But can I make it work....?

Huge props to "Toplscuda" Carl for guiding me through some troubleshooting tips on this antique. Talk about no factory support, this is an orphan. I found that the 'blowback' torch design that the PO tried to replace the original torch head with ("sure its compatible", said the salesman...) is ***-backwards in the way it strikes an arc compared to the original torch. I can't explain how the original torch (High frequency start, pilot arc, scratch start, lift start?) worked as I have yet to see one, but this machine starts the air flowing first with the torch trigger to protect the original torch tip I presume. Once the air starts flowing this new torch has a 'floating' center conductor that is physically blown back off the tip (breaking contact) due to the air forcing its way around it out the little kerf hole at the end. Now the center conductor is electrically isolated from the tip and the cutter does not sense a short (connection between the conductor and the tip) so it never tells the main transformer to turn on, click click click...nothing. Im stuck with an electrically live blow gun. BUT if I turn off the air supply (unplug the air solenoid cable) , I can keep the tip in contact with the conductor WITH the trigger pulled, now the control board senses a short circuit and turns on the transformer (the heavy sounding relay operates a large contactor) but it will quickly overheat the resistor in the unit (imagine a stick welder sticking to the piece) unless I manually start the air pressure again (touching the lead back onto the air pressure solenoid). Now the air again lifts the center conductor off the tip (clearing the short) and a big fat plasma arc is lit and is blown out the hole by the same air pressure that lifted it, or "blow back" start. I will look for the original torch head but I think I can get this to work by putting a second momentary "AIR" thumb switch on the torch head and running the wires back to the air solenoid harness. Pull trigger to electrically activate transformer, then hit the AIR button to get the arc started and blowing out the kerf hole. Get off the trigger to stop the plasma jet and that will automatically stop the air too as the trigger activates all 3 relays. to start again, pull trigger for 1/2 second until you hear the relay/big contactor 'thunk' and hit air again, blaze on! If I want 30-60 second post air after a cut, I can just hit the AIR button before pulling the trigger and it will blow dead air for 30-60 seconds as controlled by some timing circuit somewhere. I didnt see and 555 timer chip on the board so it must do it via good old solid state style.
 
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Just had to share this since you brought up Marquette products. I have one of their old 180 amp welders.
 
Thats R2-D2's great grand son....we dont need no stinking switches!
 
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