Thus saith the "getter done man"! Good tip!
Who rebuilds 727's?
- Thread starter 69dodgedart360
- Start date
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I forgot to mention the governor has to come off. DOH... Blame the heart meds. LOL
Edited the post and added some moving pictures stuff. @Ricks70Duster340
@69dodgedart360 That video I posted is a really good reference. There is another multi-episode series from a guy in australia on the tube.
Edited the post and added some moving pictures stuff. @Ricks70Duster340
@69dodgedart360 That video I posted is a really good reference. There is another multi-episode series from a guy in australia on the tube.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
My way is the easiest; Take two of the tailshaft housing bolts and screw them into the two threaded holes in the pump..Then just use any angled tool to pry under their heads against the inside of the bell housing. I have a large pair of channelocks I use. adjust the jaws all the way open and use the angled jaw against the case. A small wrecker bar works too.
j par
Well-hung Member
It always bewilders me that people will do the hard work of taking a automatic transmission out and in and give the easy job of rebuilding it to someone else and not put the $120 rebuild kit in themselves...
Taking the pump off is crazy easy once you take the valve body off you can see the back side of it and run a long screwdriver in there and give it a whack from behind and it pops right out...
Taking the pump off is crazy easy once you take the valve body off you can see the back side of it and run a long screwdriver in there and give it a whack from behind and it pops right out...
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I haven't rebuilt my 904 or 727 yet, but did rebuild the A413 in my 1996 Plymouth twice, which is a FWD version of the 904. Don't know why people fret over pulling the pump out. I just screw a bolt into the pulling holes and keep screwing so they bottom out on the case and push it out. It would slide out easy except the circumferential square O-ring gets old and hard. You can compress a big spring on one of the pistons by hand, but need a 3rd or 4th hand to remove the retaining ring the same time, so without a helper I just rigged a lever bar, using a hole on the bell-housing as a pivot. If just replacing rubbers and clutch plates, you don't need to get into the one-way drum at the bottom. If you do pull it out, a little fun holding the leaf springs and roller sprags in with vaseline to slide it all back. Best to change those springs while in there, and must orient them properly. Nothing to remember, it is all step-step in the manual, with drawings for every step. The factory manual is better than the ATSG, which is just a copy of the former and missing the update info (buy on ebay). I wouldn't open the valve body unless you see gunk inside the transmission or metal debris, unless installing a shift kit.
Last pass, I got the bright idea to change the output shaft tapered roller bearings, just because 200K miles. The 904 likely has similar. They weren't nice enough to leave a slot on the shoulder to get a punch on the backside of the outer race. You can buy a special tool with fingers which can hopefully get in the gap to grab it. I recall I finally chucked a carbide mill in a hand drill and cut thru the hardened race. Getting the inner bearing cone off a gear was also tough since recessed. I had to tear off the cage and rollers to get a bearing puller on the lip of the race to pull it out. If similar removal issues in a 904 and the tapered bearings look fine, I suggest not touching them.
Last pass, I got the bright idea to change the output shaft tapered roller bearings, just because 200K miles. The 904 likely has similar. They weren't nice enough to leave a slot on the shoulder to get a punch on the backside of the outer race. You can buy a special tool with fingers which can hopefully get in the gap to grab it. I recall I finally chucked a carbide mill in a hand drill and cut thru the hardened race. Getting the inner bearing cone off a gear was also tough since recessed. I had to tear off the cage and rollers to get a bearing puller on the lip of the race to pull it out. If similar removal issues in a 904 and the tapered bearings look fine, I suggest not touching them.
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