That was actually a question to tt5.9, but I’ll have to look for yours now.
@Oldmanmopar Supercharged right?
Whos running over 700whp on an 8.75?
- Thread starter 70DusterDev
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@Oldmanmopar Supercharged right?
33IMP
Well-Known Member
If that Dart was 3000lbs, with you in it, Wallace says 650fwhp. If it was 3400, 740at the flywheel.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Somehow I missed that the question was for me also. No no one wants to see my junk, I haven’t started on my dart yet. I’ve got the falcon to finish I’ve posted some pics of, the TT big block for my boat to finish, posted some pics of that also somewhere here, and then, maybe then a build thread for my twin turbo 5.9 72 dart.
496 with twin 78s for my boat
3.5 Honda v6 with gt35 for the falcon.
I have too many projects.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I run a 3.73 Dana under my street car, but overall, the 9” is a much better platform for racing and I built a fabricated 9 housing for my big hp car.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Smart man.
And if I remember correctly your big hp car is somewhere around 1200hp right? What’s the street car?
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
The street car is 1200whp with the dana. The Superbird will be twin 88s and probably 1600whp
the scary thing is the dana is bone stock, not even a spool
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Oh damn!
It was 1680 on front axle and 1360 on rear. Without me.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
That's the exact route I went. Got the rearend out of a mid-70's F250 at a pick-n-pull w/ a 4.10 gear, Trackloc, and 1350 yoke. After selling the Trackloc, I swapped in a powrlock, added some Mopar housing ends, and a set of Dutchman axles with 5/8" studs (all parts from Dr. Diff).
You won't regret it! What is the wall thickness of the axle tubes in yours? Mine were 5/16"!!
33IMP
Well-Known Member
So, if you are a deuce, then 3240, Wallace says 705fwhp. Stout. And for purposes of this discussion, just about the best parts you can put in a 8 3/4.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
I’d tell them to keep that clutch and have them send you a Soft Lock clutch instead. The clutch you have is a bona fide parts breaker.
It was hooking so hard the axle tubes had dented the shocks from axle wrap. Even with the 002/003 SS springs. I had to install a pinion snubber to stop that.
Whoooa whoooooa, getting there, at the boarder, warning, warning….
If you put all the best lightwt. pieces in the Dana 60 =
It weight difference is nearly negligible. just getting the
Tracklock Sure Grip Carrier out saves a bunch. Also Rifle Drilled Axles.
I understand the pinion angle is more efficient on Dana 60.
It weight difference is nearly negligible. just getting the
Tracklock Sure Grip Carrier out saves a bunch. Also Rifle Drilled Axles.
I understand the pinion angle is more efficient on Dana 60.
Motor only,,, Fuel???? I won't tell 829 @7900 at the crank R3 / Indy 360-1 heads, The previous motor X block , batten heads at the crank 679 @ 7200 Dropped a valve "Shady Dell" prepped motor worthless ,
You ARE getting something "else" together, right? I know you caint stay away.
j par
Well-hung Member
I know exactly how I broke my 8 and 3/4..
First and foremost the track that I was at you can lose a shoe walking across the starting line it's like flypaper.. then heat up some wrinkle walls... Then sidestep the clutch at about 4 and 1/2 k...
Ping..... LOL....
The extra weight of the Dana 60 is right where you want it, over the back tires..
...
First and foremost the track that I was at you can lose a shoe walking across the starting line it's like flypaper.. then heat up some wrinkle walls... Then sidestep the clutch at about 4 and 1/2 k...
Ping..... LOL....
The extra weight of the Dana 60 is right where you want it, over the back tires..
...
You make a good point too and one most people don't think of making the argument against a heavier rear axle. The rear axle is UNSPRUNG weight, so it doesn't make as big a difference. Although some will argue that point till the cows come home, they're just wrong. lolI know exactly how I broke my 8 and 3/4..
First and foremost the track that I was at you can lose a shoe walking across the starting line it's like flypaper.. then heat up some wrinkle walls... Then sidestep the clutch at about 4 and 1/2 k...
Ping..... LOL....
The extra weight of the Dana 60 is right where you want it, over the back tires..
It’s an area where you should be able to live with the draw back. Big or small. Or just keep replacing the weaker rearend.
Yeah Rusty, but Currie’s been pimping 9’s for the jeep crowd for over 30 years. It’s been their bread and butter so they would never say anything slightly bad about them.
I think they are pretty nice rear ends, with all the support out there, especially for off roading, as you can adapt them to anything mounting wise. If I ever get to the point I’m tearing up my 8 3/4 I’ll be going with a 60 as the 9’s are spendy due to their “boutique” status.
I think there were three or four companies in that article. Not just one. Also, by the time I am done, I will have well under 1K dollars in my 9" including brakes and custom axles.
j par
Well-hung Member
I was 1200 into my 8 and 3/4 and I'll be damned if I wasn't 1200 into my Dana 60...
Yep and I'm sure many of them haven't been around as long as Currie. Most of the talking points I saw are the same thing Currie was saying in the 80's. Like I said, I like the rear end it's just that these guys charge a ton for them. If you pull one from a vehicle and use regular parts you can build one reasonably, like you are doing. When I was wheeling you had two groups, the ones with money and Curries and the regular guys who ran D44's. It didn't matter to me as I ran a full size Cummins and already had a D60 up front and hybrid 80 in the rear. Now the guys in jeeps with built big blocks ran D60's.
I was fortunate enough to have a friend come by the store one day and say "hay man, I got a complete Ford 9" you can have if you come get it" so when I got off work, that's where I went. lol
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