Why are my dougs 450 headers hitting EVERYTHING on my early a

-
C

Challngd73

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 17, 2012
Messages
587
Reaction score
895
Location
Upstate ny
Ok so after much research I picked Dougs 450 ceramic coated headers for my 66 barracuda. I just put a 408 stroker motor in, and manifolds won due obviously. I have power steering and I switched from column shift to floor shift. I had read that I could use my factory starter. The headers hit the starter AND factory torsion bar. Read that some people were able to use the factory power steering coupler, and some bought a flaming river coupler for clearance. I tried factory. it hit. Bought flaming river coupler. It hits. The driver side header center tube actually hits my power steering box and I cant get the header bolted to the head because of this. ANY thoughts as to why so many clearance issues when others get them to fit? Totally at a loss on this.
coupler

power steering box hitting

starter

torsion bar driver side

passenger side tube hitting inner fender


I have new motor mounts in place for the 273 - 340/360 conversion. 904 tranny. any help is appreciated.
 
I'd give them a time out and make them sit in the corner.....
I guess this is why so many guys like the magnum manifolds.
 
Here's a thought..............How long have you owned the car? How well do you know its history? Is it possible the car has been hit? It's a streach, but it is a possibility.

Given how tight Thorly's are ( I have a set ) it doesn't take much to cause problems.

Ok it hits the starter, is it the the big old reliable or a mini? If it's big, try a mini.

I don't remember with 100% certainty that the headers will fit cars with power steering, I am pretty sure they state they don't.

I had to ding a tube for my coupler to clear; I just accepted that's headers and old cars.

Have you tried shimming the mounts up for clearance? I use a big flat washer between the frame and the mount.
 
Early A header hell. Been there, done that. All of the recommendations above are good; mini starter, shim the engine up at the mounts, try shifting the motor side to side. I recall also there was a MoparMax article on installing those headers on an Early A.
 
oh the joys of installing headers on the early A body

Some headers call out the motor mounts (requesting mancini racing). And shimming after that
 
Thanks for the responses guy. Car has been in my family since 1985. Will any mini starter do? Was looking at one from 440source.com..
 
They will work, Junk yard is much cheaper as the mini starter has been around a while and is mucho plentiful. Or napa. Best wishes, of the few things in life I never want to do, early A body header install is near the top.
 
I don't think power steering works on any early-a with any headers...you will also need a mini starter....I love my Hooker Super Comp fenderwall's on my 66, they don't rub on anything and fit like a glove :glasses7:
 
you can pick up a mini starter from napa or any other shop. ask for a starter from a early 90's small block dakota. i think mine was $59
 
Doesn't someone make the taller motor mounts for small blocks? Maybe from a pickup? Or is that just for big blocks?
 
I have had these headers in a 66 Cuda for about 15 years, they fit like a glove, I have had them in and out a bunch of times for cleaning and engine and trans change outs, never had a problem with fitment. I run stock 66 mounts with motor tied down, run a Borgesen power steering box now, have run a stock box as well, its a standard car and clutch linkage fits no problem. I also run 1.14 torsion bars and they are a squeeze and do touch a bit but it hasn't been a problem. I would try it with the stock motor mounts and check to see if the car is straight as mentioned above. You will need to unbolt the mounts from the cross member when you are installing so you can move the engine around a bit to ease installation, a floor jack under the oil pan will help you.
 
66340SEDAN said:
I don't think power steering works on any early-a with any headers...you will also need a mini starter....I love my Hooker Super Comp fenderwall's on my 66, they don't rub on anything and fit like a glove :glasses7:
Click to expand...

Wrong. I had the Dougs on my 65 and they fit great with the factory power steering. Mine didn't hit anything.
 
for the life of me i cant fiqure why in todays world and technology,they cant design a header that fits.it just blows my mind,we can put a man on the moon,develope mass destruction bombs,but cant design a simple header.unbelievable
 
jdsduster said:
for the life of me i cant fiqure why in todays world and technology,they cant design a header that fits.it just blows my mind,we can put a man on the moon,develope mass destruction bombs,but cant design a simple header.unbelievable
Click to expand...

Because accurate costs money. They'd be better off casting some high flow manifolds.

I had to return my Doug's under warranty because they leaked through the welds.
 
They do TTI, though there price tag and installation process sucks they do fit well.

I just ordered a chevy long tube build your own header and sbM flange and made my own. My passenger side is very similar to Doug's. I used a mini starter, no slip fits on mine and tucked mine up much closer to frame rail. Super easy to slide in from the top.

Drivers side has cut flange with the center two headpipes going along the block together and the number 1 headpipe follows same as Doug's but has a slip fit after it turns down over the steering shaft. Number 7 headpipe follows same as Doug's and has a slip fit just after it turns down over head pipe. Easy to install and at no point do they touch. Most points have around 1/8th of inch clearance. Pipes are 1-3/4" with 3" collectors.

If manufacturers would do a cut flange on drivers side I could see installs being easier, more routing options, and allow a small amount of adjustment possible. Just doesn't seem to be a common method.

I've never built a set of headers before these and it really wasn't very difficult. Sorry not quite in topic
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140426_204448_350.jpg
    33.8 KB · Views: 336
  • IMG_20140514_173039_959.jpg
    27.3 KB · Views: 338
  • IMG_20140514_172945_807.jpg
    30.3 KB · Views: 309
  • IMG_20140417_202203_083.jpg
    42.3 KB · Views: 346
  • IMG_20140502_154340_999.jpg
    34.2 KB · Views: 339
  • IMG_20140423_174044_194.jpg
    37.5 KB · Views: 349
  • IMG_20140502_153958_442.jpg
    104.6 KB · Views: 333
ProStocker273 said:
They do TTI, though there price tag and installation process sucks they do fit well.

I just ordered a chevy long tube build your own header and sbM flange and made my own. My passenger side is very similar to Doug's. I used a mini starter, no slip fits on mine and tucked mine up much closer to frame rail. Super easy to slide in from the top.

Drivers side has cut flange with the center two headpipes going along the block together and the number 1 headpipe follows same as Doug's but has a slip fit after it turns down over the steering shaft.

If manufacturers would do a cut flange on drivers side I could see installs being easier, more routing options, and

I've never built a set of headers before these and it really wasn't very difficult. Sorry not quite in topic
Click to expand...

I think I would tuck that #1 tube back closer to the block and allow the center ports a bigger radius around the outside of the steering shaft if possible.... Nice work though. How do the plugs look on 3 and 5 compared to 1 and 7 after a run?
 
ive got tti,and they fit.but ive heard countless times of others having issues
 
I actually tried that first but wasn't enough room near torsion bar/frame to put three tubes . If I would have wen on the other side with 3 and 5 I would have had 4 slip fits and would have been difficult to get header out. Its super easy to get out now.

I have thought about adding a slot between the 3 and 5 pipes so they can share the tubes at the top like a manifold then follow down as a separate tube after the bend.

Plugs look real uniform, I'm sure I'm giving up a little performance and even cylinder evacuation but they are super easy to put in and remove with motor in and I'm only running a built 273 for now. One of the 1-3/4 tubes is about the same size as the outlet for the stock manifolds haha
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top