That's the same set up I have on my Duster. Pretty close to the same install, I think my sensor is a little further downstream than that but I had to place it to keep it out of the way of the shift linkage for my 4 speed. I ran the wiring up through the 4 speed hump, the controller sits underneath the driver's seat. I put the test button and LED in my dash ashtray next to the cigarette lighter, and the gauge on next to the steering column.
As far as tuning there isn't much to it, you just want to keep an eye on the gauge and see what it does. Idle is easy, just set the idle screws and speed. My car seems to prefer high 13's for idle, things start to get wonky if I try to set it mid 14's and its harder to start and keep running if it's cold. Cruise is pretty easy, you can run mid 14's to low 15's at cruise if you want, that's steady state and only on the primaries. I run mine a little fatter than that because I'm close to detonation with my compression ratio and timing, so, upper 13's to low 14's. WOT is probably the next easiest except for where you need to drive to go WOT and keep it there for a bit without getting arrested, that will tell you about the secondaries. Then it's just about knowing the carburetor functions and knowing what is kicking in when, ie, when you stomp on it what's the pump shot and what's the secondaries coming in. With an Eddy you've got jets, rods with a couple steps, the step up springs (which control the rod movement based on vacuum) and the pump. So you just have to look at the A/F in certain conditions and make changes from there.
The A/F changes a lot more than you think. Or maybe the gauge changes more than you'd think, a few tenths back and forth even at idle or steady cruise is very common. There's also a small delay, so, when you stomp the throttle the A/F may still say what it said at cruise for a second before it adjusts to what happened when you stomped it. Takes a second for the fuel in the carb to work through the engine and back to your sensor. Well, maybe not an actual second, but it's not instant.
You can totally drive yourself nuts with one of these things too. It'll read different when it's cold out than when it's warmer, so like when I start my car to drive to work its a lot colder than when I drive around in the afternoon, and even with the car fully warmed up you'll see different numbers. You may not be able to set everything so it's always right where you think it should be all the time, you kind of have to step back to "regular" carb tuning. If it doesn't stumble, hesitate or detonate you're ok even if the A/F isn't perfect all the time, because you only have so many carb adjustments and the gauge will tell you everything down to a few tenths.
If you really want to go crazy you can do the data logger thing, but really I think when you start getting into fuel curves you have to be going EFI. You can do a lot with a carb, but not everything.
