Wilwood brake issue?

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951mopar

951mopar

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I just finished a wilwood conversion. Prior to test drive the rotors turned freely without touching the pads. After the test drive the rotors rub the pads a little. They are not locked I can spin them by hand but the touch a little. I do not want to burn up the rotors.

They are still manual brakes with good pedal stops really well. Just wondering if this is normal. I do have a proprtioning valve on the rear line and it is turned in 2 complete turns.
 
When you put in new pads, you have to compress the calipers to install. the first time you apply the brakes, they self adjust, then they rub the rotors. Normal.
 
I also have the Willwood kit installed on my car. They have been on for a couple of years and are working flawlessly. It is normal for the pads to rub the rotors, you have nothing to worry about.
 
Normal operation for all disk brakes. There's nothing to retract the brake pads, so after pressure is released they basically stay in light contact with the rotors. The spinning rotor creates the space it needs as you drive.
 
Thanks for the quick responses. I will leave it alone then. I just did not want to warp the rotors. It was my first conversion.
 
the o ring on the piston deforms when the brakes are applied.When the brakes are released it returns to its normal position pulling the piston back around .005.If the drag on the discs is noticeable i would look into this a little more.
Is there a residual valve in the front disc line or in the master cylinder for the disc line?
 
Jr3333 I have been looking into this also. It is the original m/c so it probably has residual valve in both lines. I will be replacing the m/c but which one is needed I wanted to keep the manual brakes
 
Post #7 is what I have read. They use a square O-ring on the caliper piston that rotates slightly as they apply and it rotates back to slightly retract the pad. Sounds quirky, but seems to work well. Dragging rotors is a common problem, but usually due to sticking slider pins (if you have those) or warped rotors.

Many here use an aluminum MC for ~1985 Dodge truck, installing on a 2-4 bolt adapter plate ($30 ebay). For an easier pedal in manual, get the smallest bore you can (15/16"D or 7/8"D), at the cost of slightly more pedal travel.
 
Bill,

The wildwood set is brand new out of the box I hope the rotors are not warped. I just ordered a new aluminum m/c from Dr. Diff hopefully that will fix the problem.
 
Just installed the Wilwoods on the front of my duster using their master and proportioning valve brakes work great..
 
Sorry for hijacking the post! I'm installing wildwood brakes on my 72 dart. Anyone running them might be able to chime in. Did you have to use red lock tite to hold the wheel studs in? Tightening the lug nuts would loosen the wheel studs. Just looking for info before I install my kit. Thanks in advance.
 
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