Windage Tray on 273 Question

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FJRdoc

FJRdoc

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I'm building a Commando spec 1967 Commando 273. We decided to install a windage tray. I located a tray and hardware.
I understand that 318 and 273 engines used washers under main bolts to add spacing for the tray.
I measured the bolt length as well as the depth of the main bolt holes. Although the bolts are longer than standard, there is enough depth for them and I'm able to torque them to 85 ft lbs. However, the windage tray will interfere with installation of the oil pan.
Looks like I will need washers to give extra height. I assume that these washers should be hardened. Any suggestions as to where I can source some washer?
Thanks in advance.
Kevin
 
When I bought my windage tray it included washers. But you should be able to buy Grade 8 washers at a hardware store. ARP might be another source.
 
and you can bend the tray until the pan drops on.
I have installed 340 trays on every 318 I have ever taken apart for personal use.
I used the 340 bolts.
As I recall;
I did not use any other parts than what came factory on the 340s, it was just a straight swap.

I do not know if the 273 maincaps are the same as 318 caps.
 
Why would they be different than the 340?
 
When I installed the tray with the special cap bolts, there is approximately a 3/8" gap between the special cap bolt and the underside of the 4 mounting locations on the tray. Other posts on FABO mentioned that washers were used under the main bolts to alleviate this problem. I did have to bend the tray inward to clear the oil pan rails.
 
I don't have my laptop handy for photos but I just bolted mine on my 273. No clearance issues. Has anyone done any real world dyno testing with a tray? All I ever heard is a 5 hp rumor.
 
I read that the tray is worth different amounts on different power levels, and depending on the degree of windage.
I put one on my 367, in addition to the 7qt-Roadrace Pan, and then just run 5 qts. This gets the oil down away from the crank. I got this idea out of the SA-Design book by Smokey Yunich. I don't know what it's worth, but
the car traps higher than I think it should, and
gets better fuel economy than many are willing to believe.
I get poo-pooed all the time for the numbers I used to quote,
by smarter men than me,
right here on FABO.
So, there's that .............................................
 
I'm going thru the same thing with the 273 for my 65 Barracuda. The number 2 and number 4 main caps on a 273 are not as beefy and thick at the bolt bosses as the 340 main caps. I'm going to be assembling my engine in the next few weeks, so I'm for sure going to use hardened head bolt washers under my windage tray bolts to keep them from bottoming out in the bolt holes. You can't just use grade 8 washers, you have to use hardened washers. I haven't mocked them up yet, but I'm wanting to make sure that when I use the hardened washers under the factory 340 main cap/windage tray bolts, it doesn't push the windage tray too far down and make it interfere with the oil pan. @Oldmanmopar posted a detailed description and pics of the differences in 340 bolts and 273/318 bolts and I remember the height of the round part the tray bolts to being different. 273/318 windage tray/main cap bolts are rare and hard to find.
 
Here's a picture of the windage tray being installed in my 273 Commando. I'm actually not seeing any washers at all, but I guess people are saying they would be under the tray spacing it away from the crank. I can't recall — this was in 2014. BTW this is not a fresh engine. It was pulled to paint the car, and while it was out it got the heads ported, a new timing set, freeze plugs and this. It actually didn't get fired up until 2021, but it's running great.

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