Winter project carb rebuilds

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Daves69 said:
... I kinda' lean if it works don't fix it so. if the shaft is true, for the bent part, I think I'd just try covering some log nose pliers with thin cardboard to make a "soft jaw" and try to straighten it first.
Click to expand...

Excessive play in the choke is OK, don't worry about it. I always just straighten the pull off bracket with pliers.
 
Thanks Dave. I thought the baffles pulled out but didnt wanna risk it.
Choke door "seems" to work ok other than the bent linkage. Ive never ran this carb so not sure whar works on it.
If I do remove the staked acrews, med strength loc-tite to hold them back in??
Thanks Dave.
Daves69 said:
I think those splash baffles just pull out. Make sure you put them back the same way.
If the shaft is bent and worn It may be worth pulling to straighten and bushing if you feel like. I kinda' lean if it works don't fix it so. if the shaft is true, for the bent part, I think I'd just try covering some log nose pliers with thin cardboard to make a "soft jaw" and try to straighten it first.
Click to expand...
 
I know service removable Loctite works great when done right. I'm sure others have done it with no issues.
If you can find new screws and stake them with a center punch would be best IMO.
 
With the weekend off I had a chance to cobble together a soda blaster and clean the carb body. Came out not bad. I took before and after pics.
Before pics are after a lot of soaking in Power Kleen, scraping and scrubbing. Soda blast helped clean it up but not as much as I hoped.

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Quick question. ..see the pic of injector pump and needle with pic of kit. You can see a steel ball in the pkg. What dat for? An extra? I dont recall one in the carb.
I also took pic of where pump mounts.
Thanks.

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Grrrr, memory failure sux. I want to say that check ball has to do with fuel flow at accelerator pump cavity. Fuel can't go out the same way it comes in. I wont take my carb back apart to look for it but I will review the exploded view later today. I'm going to compare my kit number too. Why?
One thing about it I'll never forget... Like any, the float lifts needles from seats. New needles and seats n the kit. The seats that were in my kit were taller ( about .100 ) than those removed. If that should be the case with yours, you wont get the float level set right without moding the float arms and slosh baffles.
 
Lol speaking of failing memory Ben, I searched for hours for "missing" gaskets outta the kit. I was pissed as I saw myself spending another $70-80 for another kit!
I mentioned to Lori the missing pieces. She said to look in garbage can in basement shop. BINGO, there they were. Turns out my 18 month old grandson Knox got his hands on the kit and before Nana could stop him he dumped some of it in the garbage lol.
Anyway, I posted a pic of pic from kit.
NO CHK BALL listed/shown in exploded view.
Sure wish they would give you a kit breakdown with it.
Also another pic from fsm mentions nothing about chk ball, BUT it does mention the "discharge check needle"
Doesn't make sense chk ball would be in same hole as needle??
Gonna go ahead and assemble without it.
Thanks for info on seats. I put new ones in but gonna check them.
How did u measure?
Thanks Ben.
RedFish said:
Grrrr, memory failure sux. I want to say that check ball has to do with fuel flow at accelerator pump cavity. Fuel can't go out the same way it comes in. I wont take my carb back apart to look for it but I will review the exploded view later today. I'm going to compare my kit number too. Why?
One thing about it I'll never forget... Like any, the float lifts needles from seats. New needles and seats n the kit. The seats that were in my kit were taller ( about .100 ) than those removed. If that should be the case with yours, you wont get the float level set right without moding the float arms and slosh baffles.
Click to expand...

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Steve the accel pump check valve either has a ball (rarely) or the brass part.
 
I measure the floats with a drill bit, should be on the sheet for the height mine on a 1411 are 3/8. Easy to do.
One thing I do do that is just me is put a smidge of jb weld around the aluminum plugs if they are reused, helps stop fuel seepage.
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks Dave. I thought the baffles pulled out but didnt wanna risk it.
Choke door "seems" to work ok other than the bent linkage. Ive never ran this carb so not sure whar works on it.
If I do remove the staked acrews, med strength loc-tite to hold them back in??
Thanks Dave.
Click to expand...
Change them Mikes Carburetor has them really sucks to drop them out. That's why they are brass and staked.
His are soft ss they work well.
Carter AFB Carburetor Parts
 
welp... mine is/was a Carquest kit, has different numbers.
I don't see a check ball on the drawing either. Backflow check is in fact a needle/pointed slug deal.
As for seat height, I couldn't finger out wtf was wrong, until I compared the pull offs with the new. Their books show it the be the correct kit for 4305S. Regardless, this one part was wrong.
 
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Thanks Ben. Ok so i measured new needles/seats and compared vs old. There is different dimensions. Not much but a slight difference.
I will post measurements in a bit.

Another question.
See in the pic the "valve"...and where it mounts on air horn.
Is there something that goes under the hole for valve in airhorn? You can see hole in gasket (3rd pic) that leads to carb body. Anything go there?

RedFish said:
welp... mine is/was a Carquest kit, has different numbers.
I don't see a check ball on the drawing either. Backflow check is in fact a needle/pointed slug deal.
As for seat height, I couldn't finger out wtf was wrong, until I compared the pull offs with the new. Their books show it the be the correct kit for 4305S. Regardless, this one part was wrong.
Click to expand...

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Heres dimensions I took of needle/seats

OLD NEW
.7515 Needle .7490
.5785 Seat Height outside (unthreaded part) .5785
.8270 Overall Height outside(no needle) .8130
.9650 Overall Height(with needle) .9475
I went with new needle/seats, dunno if the difference in dimensions will be a problem, but will cross that road if need be later.
I got float level set with gasket @ 5/16" and float drop with gasket at 23/32"

Anyone know if anything goes in hole in airhorn in previous post?
Thanks
Steve
 
nothing more at the vent. As simple as a sink drain stopper.
Your parts measure close enough. Inspires me to buy that brand kit.
Like I said, the Carquest kit missed by about .100 .
 
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Thanks Ben, what dimension with your kit was off by 0.100 ?
RedFish said:
nothing more at the vent. As simple as a sink drain stopper.
Your parts measure close enough. Inspires me to buy that brand kit.
Like I said, the Carquest kit missed by about .100 .
Click to expand...
 
The height of the 2 seats screwed into the carb. Thus the needles stood the same too high.
 
I encouraged him to start a winter project after I started my heater box winter project, and now he is getting a lot more done than me.... :D
Great job !!
 
Ok got ya. I measured with needles in seats, old was .0175 taller than new We will see come spring time.
Thanks again
 
Lol no not really, I spent more time looking for gaskets the grandson turfed than I did putting it together.
Thanks tho!
318willrun said:
I encouraged him to start a winter project after I started my heater box winter project, and now he is getting a lot more done than me.... :D
Great job !!
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Ok got ya. I measured with needles in seats, old was .0175 taller than new We will see come spring time.
Thanks again
Click to expand...
I'm sure .02 or so can be adjusted out at the float arm/tangs. 5 to 6 times that doesn't play well.
 
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