Winter storage advise?

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Steves65

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I have been reading up on winter storage and am seeing some conflicting information....so I would like to see what everyone here thinks are the most important Do's and Don't s for winter storage?

Thanks!
 
Take the wheels off to prevent flat spotting. Start it now and then. Use the brakes to prevent siezed calipers. Spin the rotors to move the bearings. If you've got critter problems put glue traps around the jack stands. And of course Stabil.
 
full tank of fuel, I use scissor jacks and leave the wheels on, cap exhaust-for 2.5" use 6 oz. yogurt cups, step on the clutch now and then
 
Drain gas tank, use the fuel in other vehicles, write list of parts needed for spring, filters, oils, etc....
Hook up battery tender.
Check anti freeze balance. Drain and change if old.
 
I know the fuel these days goes bad pretty quick, but really in the scheme of things, these cars aren't sitting that long. What still concerns me the most is rust. Thought that my garage was dry, but was out there earlier this week and could not believe all the condensation on EVERYTHING. My car wasn't undercoated when new, and never has been. Thinking I may have to do something.
 
Damp rid. works good if you have condensation problems.
Have my 65 valiant stored in garage on blocks to get her up in the air. Hang 3 damp rid bags under her. Incredible how much moisture they soak up. Plug my exhaust with steel wool plug to keep vermain out. Also use battery tender and rely on sta-bil in fuel tank. Bags and exhaust plug easy to remove to start periodically. Try to start her every week if possible.

IMG_0181.JPG
 
I live in Florida, but we've had some cold snaps below freezing and it's been in the teens a few times over the last few decades. My car stays in the trailer. But instead of draining the coolant, which is water and a coolant/lubricant additive (no antifreeze), I hang a drop-light with a 60w (more if the fixture is designed for it) incandescent bulb under the hood. Under the water pump, between the engine & radiator, is a good spot. (The new-fangled bulbs don't put out enough heat.) Two couldn't hurt. But it should be just enough to prevent freezing.
 
Sta-Bil will hold fuel for a good while.

Oh! I also run the engine until out of fuel in the carb.
 
In regards to the Stabil stuff :thumbsup:, I posted this on B-bodies earlier this year..........................

FWIW, I've used Stabil in ALL the gas in my 2008 boat with a Holley 2300 carb purchased in 2007 new. ALL the gas has been ethanol polluted going through this carb. Around here you winterize in October and it sits until March. You fill the tank 3/4+, add Stabil, and fire it up next year.
Recently I tuned it up (Lol, a whole 6 plugs) and for grins I pulled the Holley figuring I'd clean out all the scum and crud accrued in the last 8 years.
Look what I found......................
boatcarb1-jpg.365431.jpg
boatcarb2-jpg.365432.jpg
 
Drive it! It gets down into single digits here in Ohio but there are days where the snow melts and the temps come up. I do not have a heater in my car but I get out and go around the block once a month.
 
If you are having moisture problems in your garage, place some charcoal in cheap tin foil pans around the garage.
The charcoal will absorbs so much moisture it will not even burn come springtime.
 
Drive it! It gets down into single digits here in Ohio but there are days where the snow melts and the temps come up. I do not have a heater in my car but I get out and go around the block once a month.


we havent had snow in 2 weeks now
so i decided to fire up the duster today for a few trips around town (enough to get the engine up to operating temp)

guess what i saw when i pulled out of the garage?
sure enough, it started snowing again
 
Storing with a full tank of fuel reduces the opportunity for condensation and rust forming at and above the fuel line. The disadvantages are mostly due to the stuff in today's pump fuel, ethanol being one of those ingrediants. One issue is the varnishes that form. It looks like stabil may overcome that. I didn't have that sort of luck back when I tried it years ago but it sure looks good in the pictures above. Of course if the garage is heated and dry moisture issue will be less of a concern.

The other issue is when trying to drive on December fuel on a hot day in June. You'll wonder what's wrong with the car, especially once it gets hot! Worse with a modified engine and no vapor controls, but its never good. So if you can get it out in say March, or maybe even April since you (OP) is in Mass. you're probably OK. If that's not going to happen, then get some real gasoline to use as storage fuel. This is not cheap but nor is siphoning off 5 to 10 gallons of 6 month old winter fuel. I assume a full feedback modern FI vehicle can burn the stuff out of season but I don't own such an animal so have ended up giving it away.
 
Lots of great advice....some I have heard, others are new to me. So far, I had already topped off the tank and added stabil so hopefully that will not be an issue, I have her on jack stands, pulled the battery and just bought a battery tender a couple of weeks ago....she is in the garage, but no heat..so moisture is still tbd. ..and sounds like some more work to do to prevent moisture and mice....

Seems like the group maybe split on oil change before or after...curious if anyone feels strongly one way or the other....why?
 
Lots of great advice....some I have heard, others are new to me. So far, I had already topped off the tank and added stabil so hopefully that will not be an issue, I have her on jack stands, pulled the battery and just bought a battery tender a couple of weeks ago....she is in the garage, but no heat..so moisture is still tbd. ..and sounds like some more work to do to prevent moisture and mice....

Seems like the group maybe split on oil change before or after...curious if anyone feels strongly one way or the other....why?
I heard never leave dirty oil in crankcase. I always put in new oil before storage , better safe than sorry .
 
new oil before storage, cuz used oil is slightly acidic. I fill up in late november with 89 octane (less ethanol than 93) and lucas ethanol treatment additive, and when I drive out in May no problems with the old gas. an open container of mothballs helps deter rodents
 
The problem with Ethanol in fuel is Phase Separation. Not good when that happens. Don't think Stabil controls that effectively. There is a product called Phase 4 that is specifically designed to control phase separation. Ethanol based fuels are proven to go bad very quickly. Fortunately I have the choice locally and only use ethanol free fuel in my car and Stabil during long storage does the job.

There are various opinions about periodically starting the engine of a vehicle in winter storage. It is generally not recommended. My car is stored for 7 months (dry, unheated) every off season and I never start it. Been doing it that way for many years without issues. I also have never seen a radial tire that flat spots from sitting. Granted it can be a problem though with bias belted tires. Many opinions too on using jack stands and potential issues with long term unsupported hanging suspension components. Leave the car on the floor. My 2 cents.
 
fill with gas and stabil, battery tender and car cover.
 
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