Winter transmission builds

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71Demon528

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Just finished my dads 727 yesterday. The powerglide build is this upcoming sundays job. My buddy I work with is not the best at photos or else we would have had more detailed pictures of each individual piece laid out.

727 is going in my dads 68 Roadrunner behind a 540 Hemi. It is a 100% race built engine and transmission. The 727 has the following

Hardened wide lug pump gears with calico coating
Billet aluminum big piston front drum
5 red clutches and regular steels
Red racing kickdown band
Billet aluminum rear drum
4 red clutches and regular steels
Later model bellvue spring
Billet steel 4 pinion front planetary machined for Torrington bearings
Lightened sun shell
Aluminum 4 pinion rear planetary machined for Torrington bearings
Billet aluminum low/reverse drum with roller bearing
Red racing low/reverse band
Ultimate bolt in sprag, 6 bolt 16 element
Rear roller support
Aluminum park gear
300M input shaft and billet steel hub
300M output shaft
Billet aluminum dual ring dual spring kickdown servo
Billet aluminum low/reverse servo
Accumulator blocked
4.2 Second gear lever
Heavy duty band strut
A&A reverse manual valve body with low band apply and high pressure reverse circuit eliminated
A&A deep aluminum pan

The powerglide I am waiting on pins, needle rollers, and thrust washers to rebuild the planetary set. Should be here today. After we get that accomplished Sunday, it will be assembled. We took it apart a few months ago, it was smoked. I’ll try to remember to take better photos this Sunday.

I hope everyone’s winter is treating them well and they are staying busy. Don’t let seasonal depression take over. Spring will be here before you know it.

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It’s one of Markie’s. It’s got a 1.80 trans specialties straight cut set in it. Been in that trans since 2008. So it’s time for needles pins and washers.
 
Another item on a very long list of stuff to do, I still need to buy some parts too.
 
Just finished my dads 727 yesterday. The powerglide build is this upcoming sundays job. My buddy I work with is not the best at photos or else we would have had more detailed pictures of each individual piece laid out.

727 is going in my dads 68 Roadrunner behind a 540 Hemi. It is a 100% race built engine and transmission. The 727 has the following

Hardened wide lug pump gears with calico coating
Billet aluminum big piston front drum
5 red clutches and regular steels
Red racing kickdown band
Billet aluminum rear drum
4 red clutches and regular steels
Later model bellvue spring
Billet steel 4 pinion front planetary machined for Torrington bearings
Lightened sun shell
Aluminum 4 pinion rear planetary machined for Torrington bearings
Billet aluminum low/reverse drum with roller bearing
Red racing low/reverse band
Ultimate bolt in sprag, 6 bolt 16 element
Rear roller support
Aluminum park gear
300M input shaft and billet steel hub
300M output shaft
Billet aluminum dual ring dual spring kickdown servo
Billet aluminum low/reverse servo
Accumulator blocked
4.2 Second gear lever
Heavy duty band strut
A&A reverse manual valve body with low band apply and high pressure reverse circuit eliminated
A&A deep aluminum pan

The powerglide I am waiting on pins, needle rollers, and thrust washers to rebuild the planetary set. Should be here today. After we get that accomplished Sunday, it will be assembled. We took it apart a few months ago, it was smoked. I’ll try to remember to take better photos this Sunday.

I hope everyone’s winter is treating them well and they are staying busy. Don’t let seasonal depression take over. Spring will be here before you know it.

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View attachment 1716195920

View attachment 1716195921
What do you do with the governor?
 
I need to build a glide.... All the horror stories about the 727's got me skeeerd. lol

*edited for clarification*

My 727 is built for racing with all Cope parts (billet drum, bolt in spag etc...) and I will never do a 1st gear burnout but a catastrophic failure is always in the back of my mind.
 
I need to build a glide.... All the horror stories about the 727's got me skeeerd. lol

*edited for clarification*

My 727 is built for racing with all Cope parts (billet drum, bolt in spag etc...) and I will never do a 1st gear burnout but a catastrophic failure is always in the back of my mind.

Then there’s no reason to build a glide in my opinion. If your 727 has the right parts, it’s fine. They can tolerate tons of power. I’ve considered the glide dozens of times but not because of any fear of my 727. More so about one less gear, and less gear ratio on the starting line.
 
I need to build a glide.... All the horror stories about the 727's got me skeeerd. lol

*edited for clarification*

My 727 is built for racing with all Cope parts (billet drum, bolt in spag etc...) and I will never do a 1st gear burnout but a catastrophic failure is always in the back of my mind.
Skeeerd member
Lol
 
Before I knew about any don't 1st gear burnout, I did thousands of 1st gear burnouts in multiple cars and trucks with 727s and never had a issue.
 
I have been running 904s for years behind my mid 500 hp range small blocks doing a 2nd gear only burnout, only two failures in 40 years mainly due to my own fault ( mis aligned shifter lever ) my friends keep trying to talk me into a power glide especially now that most racing around me is 1/8 mile but it would be expensive : driveshaft, shifter, bell housing , converter etc. so the 904 stays
 
Then there’s no reason to build a glide in my opinion. If your 727 has the right parts, it’s fine. They can tolerate tons of power. I’ve considered the glide dozens of times but not because of any fear of my 727. More so about one less gear, and less gear ratio on the starting line.
I like the benefit of one less gear. It will really make driving my car like operating a pop-up toaster. lol
 
I have been running 904s for years behind my mid 500 hp range small blocks doing a 2nd gear only burnout, only two failures in 40 years mainly due to my own fault ( mis aligned shifter lever ) my friends keep trying to talk me into a power glide especially now that most racing around me is 1/8 mile but it would be expensive : driveshaft, shifter, bell housing , converter etc. so the 904 stays

The cost to switch is main reason I don’t.

The way I would build a glide for my car would be $5k-$5500
The converter is another $1500
Driveshaft $500
Shifter another $500-$900 depending on choice
Flywheel and adapter plate are needed as well.
 
The cost to switch is main reason I don’t.

The way I would build a glide for my car would be $5k-$5500
The converter is another $1500
Driveshaft $500
Shifter another $500-$900 depending on choice
Flywheel and adapter plate are needed as well.
Jeeéeeéz
 
The cost to switch is main reason I don’t.

The way I would build a glide for my car would be $5k-$5500
The converter is another $1500
Driveshaft $500
Shifter another $500-$900 depending on choice
Flywheel and adapter plate are needed as well.
Do you run a 727 in your race car?
 
Do you run a 727 in your race car?

Yes I do. Very good unit. Bought it used (before I started building transmissions). Put 499 runs on it, never had any issues. Last summer (2022) I had converter fins break off and send metal through my trans. I tore it apart, inspected it, cleaned it. Nothing was damaged, clutches and steels could have went right back in the trans. I had just became a dealer with A&A around the time this happened so I had what I needed to freshen it up with new seals, clutches, steels, etc. it’s been happy in my car ever since.

Chris from Andrew racing trans just did a YouTube video on a small block 727 tear down. Trans had 600 runs on it since last overhaul. 10 second car with a trans brake. The 727 doesn’t even have a bolt in sprag, steel front planetary, or some other upgrades, and it was in great condition. They’re tough transmissions. Don’t fear yours.
 
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I have three ATI powerglide cases that I got for 650.00. They are now almost 950.00. The bellhousings for big and small blocks were 275.00-325.00 and I use a stock Tailshaft. I ran a 1.98 gearset for two years and sold it for almost what I paid for it on sale. So now I have two 1.80 gearsets and one 1.69 in my blue duster. I would hate to see what that gearset sells for now. I’ll freshen one transmission this winter but doubt if I put it in before the season starts. It’s nice having a spare sitting here ready. I have a nice spare converter but it’s 1.5-2 tenths slower being a 9 inch. It’s been rebuilt by transmission specialties but they couldn’t get my 5800 stall out of it. I have a nitrous converter in my blue duster so if I wanted to run it NA this converter would probably work well in it.

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I have three ATI powerglide cases that I got for 650.00. They are now almost 950.00. The bellhousings for big and small blocks were 275.00-325.00 and I use a stock Tailshaft. I ran a 1.98 gearset for two years and sold it for almost what I paid for it on sale. So now I have two 1.80 gearsets and one 1.69 in my blue duster. I would hate to see what that gearset sells for now. I’ll freshen one transmission this winter but doubt if I put it in before the season starts. It’s nice having a spare sitting here ready. I have a nice spare converter but it’s 1.5-2 tenths slower being a 9 inch. It’s been rebuilt by transmission specialties but they couldn’t get my 5800 stall out of it. I have a nitrous converter in my blue duster so if I wanted to run it NA this converter would probably work well in it.

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The cases went up big time in price. A Reid case and bell is $1700. Planetary sets are between $1,000-$1,500 depending on brand, ratio.
 
The cases went up big time in price. A Reid case and bell is $1700. Planetary sets are between $1,000-$1,500 depending on brand, ratio.

I could have built Matt a stock case powerglide that I ran for years for less than 400.00. He had one built in Ohio for 4000.00 and it’s sitting next to his FAB 9 inch rearend in my basement.
 
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