Wipers took a Dump

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mario03srt

mario03srt

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All,

Well I have had this car for 3 months and just finished a complete front end rebuild. While out checking out the car before the alignment the wipers started to make a bit of noise and then would not return to home. Shortly there after it became disconnected. Motor is running still.

So I see there is not an access panel and several threads speak of doing this from under the dash. I have the FSM but I looking for the REAL way to do this. I had a 73 Satellite eons ago and if I remember it was a piece of cake but there was access. I guessing that the retainers came off .

Anyone have any suggestions or point me to a decent how to? I saw a few but were kinda sketchy.

Thanks,

Marion
 
The service manual IS the "real way." I guess it depends on how agile you are. My standard answer for wiper problems.......and because Ma changed them over the years,...........is the FSM and Passion Mopars site. There's a lot of good info there

http://www.passion4mopars.com/
 
What kind of car? On my 70 dart, the wiper motor was EASILY accessible with the glove box liner out of the way. It's just a few Phillips screws to remove the liner if it's in good shape. My liner was pretty much gone, so I replaced it with a fresh one while I was there.
 
1994redram said:
What kind of car? On my 70 dart, the wiper motor was EASILY accessible with the glove box liner out of the way. It's just a few Phillips screws to remove the liner if it's in good shape. My liner was pretty much gone, so I replaced it with a fresh one while I was there.
Click to expand...

And on my 73 Swinger the ONLY way to get at the motor and the arm connected to it is from under the dash.
Also, it's almost centered on the firewall just above where the carpet stops.

To the OP,
Depending on year there are different styles of pivot bushings.
WAY different on the motor arm in different years, as some are plastic cups and some are metal bushings.
Like 67Dart273 said, the service manual and the website he posted the link for will cover it for you.
 
What came disconnected? If its just not parking I can walk you through that before you turn contortionist to try to remove it? Is the only thing it's not doing well is parking?
 
If it came disconnected at the linkage then you're home free, take that puppy off from the engine bay ;-) I never get that lucky, but hey, some people do LOL
 
My mind gets fuzzy but seems to me on my Dart when I removed the motor, I could pull it out off the mounts FROM the engine bay and unhooked the linkage right there
 
67Dart273 said:
My mind gets fuzzy but seems to me on my Dart when I removed the motor, I could pull it out off the mounts FROM the engine bay and unhooked the linkage right there
Click to expand...

You can.
The motor comes off from the engine side but all the linkage is under the dash. (obviously you realize that.)
It's easier to pull the linkage from under the dash, then pull the motor if doing that.
 
TrailBeast said:
You can.
The motor comes off from the engine side but all the linkage is under the dash. (obviously you realize that.)
It's easier to pull the linkage from under the dash, then pull the motor if doing that.
Click to expand...

All,

I'm back on this issue. I have the cluster out to do the MAD rewire and was hoping to fix my wipers. One of the arms is floppy but I cannot see where it connects as the blower tube is in the way. Am I supposed to approach this from the passenger side or pull out the wiper motor. My engine is out of the can right now.

Thanks,

Marion
 
OK, So one linkage goes from wiper motor pitman arm all the way to drivers side wiper pivot. The other linkage goes from that pivot back across to the passengers side pivot. Thus all the work load is on the first linkage and drivers side pivot. To service, I remove the inst' panel. A rallye inst' panel includes the heater radio center section. A standard panel such as yours does not. In that case I also remove radio, or both radio and climate controller so to work through those openings.
In the case of my 73 Valiant, fully optioned factory air. First the lower under dash vent box, then the ash tray and its hanger, then the radio.
Just for edumacation... the OEM nylon bushings lasted many years. When aftermarket replacements last only 1 to 3 years, the quality of those bushings is pointed out in every case. The truth is, wear and binding in the drivers side pivot assembly is the culprit. Remember I explained all the work load being there. Bottom line, if you don't want to do any of this again any time soon, do this... Mark the pot metal pivot assemblies before you drop them. Take them to the work bench and do the pivot seal grease fitting service while you are in there. Reinstall the pivots rotated 180 degrees from where they were marked. This puts the pressure and subsequent wear on the opposite side of bushings where little to no wear is. Simple way to buy x number of years in trouble free operation.
I never cared for Chryslers in cabin wiper mechanics mostly because they are noisy. I found that they weren't so noisy when new. I totally rebuilt both wiper pivots in my 67. Learned about them by doing so. Those wipers now run smooth and quiet even on a dry glass. Rotating the pivots in my 73 worked almost as well.
 
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