Wiring Fix Qestion

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73NorthernDuste

73NorthernDuste

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Hopefully a quick question.

I am pulling apart my 73 Duster and found the multi connector from the ignition switch to the harness is burnt at the red ignition wire and the plastic connector is burnt and turned to dust when I pulled it apart.

Looks like the guy's at the factory left a little bare wire on the ignition wire and over the years it arced and burnt.

Can I just break away the plastic connector, fix the bare wire and then plug all the wires back into each other without the plastic connectorm using the existing pins? I would electrical tape up each wire separately then tape them all together.

Would the wires get too hot for the electrical tape?

Thanks in advance
Brent
 
Brent, Welcome aboard, you could wire in a new connector but you would still have to solder and/or electrical tape/heat shrink the wires that connect to the plug. sooo I'd say ditch the connector and crimp on some new insulated spade connectors to each wire and connect and should be better than the rest of the wiring in the car (but that is another story). I tend to stay away from electrical tape as it has a way of getting gooey and coming unraveled at the worst time. All told, should be less than $5 worth of parts.
 
The casing shrinks exposing the wire due to heat and age. You may have a hard time finding crimp on terminals that are as heavy or more dependable than the factorys copper wire terminals. I'd repair or replace the one that has seen too much heat and move the current load with a relay and heavier wire.
 
May I interject with some advice?

ANYTIME you have a wiring issue inside the car, remember where the power source is; it's OUTSIDE the car. When the wiring for our cars were designed "back in the day" it all worked. Over time, corrision forms and the by-product is resistence. This is what causes stuff to fry in the car. The bulkhead connector is NOTORIOUS for raising hell. After you fix what already melted, check that connector. Sure, it's a pain in the a$$ to get under there, but make room, get comfortable, and have a plastic housing drop light (they don't burn as much when it falls on your forehead....) and pull it apart and visually check the terminals for a greenish tint. Go to Radio Shack and find a spray can of corrosion-killer, or whatever it's called, and follow the directions and seperate the connection and clean it. If things are toast (or if your REALLY ambitious...) pull each terminal out ONE AT A TIME and replace whats bad. While it's apart you can clean them with a trimed-down carboard nailfile (the type that come 20 in a package for like $2.00) and clean the insides while they're still installed in the plug. Get an old pair of scissors (by the second cut they'll be shot...) and narrow the end of the file so it fits inside the female end of the terminals. The male ends protrudes and are a little easier to polish ( no comments Ladies... and you know who you are ;) ) With a VERY SMALL flat blade screwdriver (or a pointed pick) GENTLY bend the edges of the terminals down to grab the male portion and make the contact tighter. Man, this is tedious work, but do it right once, and you'll have trouble-free driving.

This is the FIRST THING everyone should look at when they aquire an old Mopar, or have a goofy problem. So many issues stem from this connection. ESPECIALLY for us poor bastards that live in the rust belt. This connection gets sprayed with whatever can get into (or OUT of..) the engine compartment. Road salt, anti-freeze, oil, etc.

Now, to answer your question. When a manufacture uses a multi-terminal connection it's mostly for convience in assembly and servicing. Like Player1up & RedFish suggested, replace what needs (or SHOULD) be replaced with insulated terminals with all connections soldered and shrink wrapped. It's also a good idea to have a copy of YOUR cars wiring diagram handy. Don't trust the previous owners ability to diagnosis and repair. This might also be the cause of just such problems.

Do a good job once, and you won't look bad fixing what you already fixed. [-X
 
I agree with Fastback, I have the same type issue w/my 73 you need to fix the problem not just the result of the problem I have no patience though and I am going to order a new dash harness from y-one I want to drive my car not work on it on the side of the road. Does anyone have any experience w/there new harnesses?
 
ahldo1 said:
I agree with Fastback, I have the same type issue w/my 73 you need to fix the problem not just the result of the problem I have no patience though and I am going to order a new dash harness from y-one I want to drive my car not work on it on the side of the road. Does anyone have any experience w/there new harnesses?
Click to expand...

I suggested fixing a problem that took 40 years to develop. then make a minor change to keep it from happening again. I am glad I can fix it on the side of the road.
 
RedFish said:
I suggested fixing a problem that took 40 years to develop. then make a minor change to keep it from happening again. I am glad I can fix it on the side of the road.
Click to expand...


Sorry Redfish, I wasn't trying to credit your suggestion to someone else, I was simply adding to the subject as for working on the side of the road I admire your abilities but I would just rather work on my vehicle at my liesure - No insults were intended if that is where you were going!:eek:ops:
 
Nah It's all good. I wasn't offended at all. I haven't researched YearOnes replacement harnesses, but I suspect they are nearly identical to OEM. That wouldn't prevent this same failure from happening again someday.
 
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