wiring up Proform Mopar HEI Distributor # 440-434

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Bryan Lohmiller

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I bought the Proform Mopar HEI Distributor # 440-434 what I'm not sure about is how to wire it up
1st do I leave the ballast resistor or bypass it I'm thinking bypass it?
2nd the stock ignition box (this is a 1971 Plymouth with a 360) do I keep the box plugged onto the system or unplug it and find the start and run wires and plug them into the distributor or do I need a specific wiring harness for this to work?.
 
Let's start with the destructions. Link?
Is this the one with the big huge GM style "looks like" a GM HEI?

If so, no ballast. If so, no Mopar harness, you can unwrap it and strip out the existing wires back to the ballast connection.

Use the old coil wire to connect power to the new HEI. BYPASS the ballast and make sure you have "same as battery" voltage in both cranking and the "run" position.
 
Let's start with the destructions. Link?
Is this the one with the big huge GM style "looks like" a GM HEI?

If so, no ballast. If so, no Mopar harness, you can unwrap it and strip out the existing wires back to the ballast connection.

Use the old coil wire to connect power to the new HEI. BYPASS the ballast and make sure you have "same as battery" voltage in both cranking and the "run" position.
images_ePIM_original_440-434_w700_h500_q80.jpg


all the instructions said was
Step 9- Reconnect the wiring leading from the distributor to the ignition switch

except on mopars there's the start circuit which gives 12 volts then switches to the run circuit which runs through the resistor so my first thought was to bypass the resistor but then I would need to figure out which wires I need to jump at the ECM to give me 12 volts all the time.
I had some one tell me on a different forum all I need to do is run a jumper wire from the blue wire going to the field terminal on the alt and use that as my constant 12 volts
 
71 should have 2 terminal ballast? Or was it converted to 4 pin?

A 2 pin you just hook both terminals together. Then use the original coil+ wire to feed the HEI. The HEI should have a "tach" terminal there in the cap

If you have a 4 pin ballast, 2 of them are jumpered together. The wire(s) the jumpered ones connect to is your "run." One of the remaining 2 goes to the old ECU, so that is disconnected. The remaining one has the IGN2 "bypass" incorporated, so jumper that to the 1st one I mentioned the one with the "jumper" and then hook the old coil wire to the HEI power
 
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