Won't crank

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74demon

74demon

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Hey guys /gals working on my uncle car and having a issue with cranking car is a 73 duster 360...yes 360 with a auto trans car won't crank I can get it to if I jump post on the starter relay but not buy the key it's self thought maybe neural safety switch but I do have reverse lights and if I can rember right they use the same switch for both I have try to start In neural as well still nothing and the items that don't have juice while cranking go out such as the radio and stuff so that part is working any ideas where I should start looking thanks for the help also a reminder I do suffer from a visual disorder so please be kind and understanding I'm doing the best I can
 
Start by looking around in the engine bay for this:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1705079

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=168214

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=14304&highlight=interlock

attachment.php


And if you have it, locate the yellow / yellow tracer wires going to the connector, and splice them permanently together

If you do NOT have it, then troubleshoot the starting wire to the relay, the relay, and to the clutch safety or automatic neutral safety switch, depending.
 
I had exactly what your describing last week in my 71 Duster. I started it by jumping the relay and got it back in the garage. I had power to the yellow wire terminal on the relay, but the relay wasn't "relaying" the power. Took the relay out, opened it up using snippets to fold back the tabs and remove the back. The windings were in good shape, but there was corrosion. I cleaned all contacts real good, folded the tabs back with a small punch/hammer, reinstalled, and it's started about a dozen times since. Plan to get a spare relay just in case...but my thought is the old stuff is built better than the new so I'd rather clean it up and press on. 67Dart273 has forgotten more about Mopar mx then I know...so follow his advice and you'll fix your problem and learn something!
 
The switch in the trannie indeed does both the Neutral Safety and the reverse light funciotnn, but they are 2 separate switches in the same package. One can fail and the other be OK. Plus the NSS depends on linkage alignment.

Here is a way to troubleshoot that does not require a voltmeter or test light:

1. Put a jumper to ground from the post on the starter relay that has the wire to the NSS (a brown-yellow wire) and see if it starts. If so, then the issue is in the NSS.

2. If not, then it is in the relay or the wiring to the relay. Remove the small dark green-red wire (and it might be a yellow wire) from the starter relay and jump 12 volts direct to that terminal. If it starts, the relay is good. If not, replace relay.

3. If the relay and NSS are good form 1 and 2 above, then check out the seat belt interlock relay that 67Dart273 showed above. Press the bypass button once and see if it starts. If so, the seat belt interlock is the issue. Bypass that as noted.
 
If I had that where would I find it did 73 have that on them? I jumped wires at relay nss didn't make a difference as soon as I put 12v where the yellow wire is on starter relay it try to start
 
Yeah this car is not equipped with that....I have a test light with a digital read out as well as voltmeter
 
Well, you are close to the end of trail on this one. The wire you want to troubleshoot is the dark green/red (or yellow) one to the start relay where you put the jumper to 12v and made the starter crank.

Use your voltmeter and probe into the terminal on the enigne side of the bulkhead connector where this wire connects and see if approximately 12v shows up there when you turn the key to START. If not, then go on the passenger side of the same connection and check for 12v on that same wire (which should be yellow on the passenger side of the firewall) when the key is in START and then move on back to the ignition switch connector and the ignition switch itself. If 12v does not come out of the ignition switch when in START, it is the switch.

I want to check one other thing: do other things work OK in the car when the ignition switch is the ON or ACCESSORY position like the radio? Just making sure you have 12v power going TO the ignition switch in the first place! Since you report reverse lights are OK, then it is probably going there, but I don't want to miss something here.....
 
74demon said:
Yup everything working 100% just not cranking
Click to expand...

WHAT does this mean?

Can you twist the key (or have someone do so) and hear the starter relay?

Maybe the relay is pulling in and the contacts are bad.............

Didn't you say you can jump the relay and it will crank?
 
I assmue he means all the other electrical stuff on the car is working.... meant as a response to my last question to see if he had power to the ignition switch!
 
Sounds like a bad relay...clean it up or dissect and see if it's salvageable...if the windings inside are not fried, just clean up corrosion and get it back on the road. Good luck!
 
67Dart273 said:
WHAT does this mean?

Can you twist the key (or have someone do so) and hear the starter relay?

Maybe the relay is pulling in and the contacts are bad.............

Didn't you say you can jump the relay and it will crank?
Click to expand...

Need answers to above ^^^

I'm thinking it's likely there is corrosion on the relay contacts. Jumped it with 12v and it worked--it's working sometimes, but not always with everything else 100%...meaning the yellow wire has juice. Possible corrosion internal and/or external causing problem. Could replace relay, or clean up one you got. Just my 2cents.
 
Ok, I made the assumption (*** u/me!) that 100% meant at the yellow wire where it hooks to the relay. Could check the yellow wire for continuity...as there's power at the bulkhead to it. Bad wire a possibility....or corrosion on lead to relay/relay issue. Free to clean baby...well, almost free.
 
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