Would I have been better off not knowing?

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bbrroowwnn said:
I disagree, If it was blasted , what you see is metal....no filler....So yes the metal is thinner near the pin holes than other places but it is still metal....Light heat on the mig with copper spoon backing can fill them in.....The quarter panels because of the body line would be easier to cut out and replace and blend in......To me , putting a whole new spare tire area in there because of that small area is not worth it....I would fill the trunk hole with the mig.....again, JMO
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I would be concerned with what is behind the pin holes that you can't see - and it's hell to get at. Both methods will work in certain areas for sure.
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That car is pretty rust free, quit complaining and weld some patches in it.
Most old cars around here, when you buy them to restore, you plan on changing, floor pans, 1/4's, door bottoms, at the very least.
 
Yeah, around here that is a mint car. You can almost count on doing front floor pans, quarters, trunk extensions, and trunk at a minimum.
For the pits you can smooth them over with metal2metal filler then sand flat. They have to be blasted to white metal and I will usually treat with ospho too as a second measure. If there is pinholes going through they should be welded. If its a large area of pits you may consider doing a patch.
 
If you're resto modding the car, why not cut out the whole tire well, and give your car a flat, usable trunk. you would have to make a fuel tank mount though. if you want to save the trunk well, and you try the copper backed weld method, and it still keeps blowing through,then the metal is too thin, an you will need to cut out a larger area patch. The main thing to remember, is never try to run a bead on sheet metal. It will warp every time. do tack welds on the patch. Moving to opposite sides to minimize heat. keep tacking the same way all around the patch until it is solid. Then grind away. And yes, on the east coast, that's an awesome body.
 
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