Would or Wouldnt cut

[jeepsterhemi]

Same old problem and solution...............I just bend the lip inside on my 1956 Méteor back in 1967..............thanks for the memories..............

 

[69MOPE]

You dont have to do the whole opening, just the center top 18 inches.

 

[69conv]

I rolled mine on my 69 dart. Use a wooden bat and make sure you buy a quality heat gun. Warm it back and forth til its almost too hot to touch. I worked mine by prying against the tires a little at a time and when it started to cool I warmed it again. I gained about 3/4" and didn't crack the paint.

 

[cawley]

I would like to be able to fit 15x8 drag radials in my rear wheel well of 71 Scamp. The 1/2" lip on the inside of the wheel well that the chrome trim would screwed to is in the way. I dont have the chrome trim on my car, so this lip is not needed, but wondering about the strength if I remove that lip. My axle is centered under the car and I have a equal amount of space on both sides.

What would you guys do? Cut it off, leave it, or do something else? If you choose do something else please give me your ideas. Thanks

I would not cut it. I could create a gap between your quarter & outer wheel well.

 

[straightlinespeed]

Well tried the bat trick and warmed it with the heat gun. Like mentioned almost to hot to touch. I was rolling back and forth and spent around 30 minutes working the top section. I was able to roll about 10" of the upper lip, sadly though it dimpled the outer fender and Im not sure why. Its not terrible, but noticeable if your looking for it.

The way the wheel well opening is I cant roll anymore because I ran out of tire.The other problem I had is I could only roll it about half way up. Meaning I had the bat as vertical as possible. I can still get the tips of my fingers between what I rolled and the fender.

Im at a loss as to how to get it to roll up further. Im using the stock tires, so I could probably could throw on the drag radial which is wider and continue. Thoughts?

 

[65Vart]

Wheels are too wide. I have 255/60-15 "sticky mickeys" on 15x7" rims. Even 61/2" wide is o.k.

what suspension mods, leaf springs moved?

 

[straightlinespeed]

Well I ended up cutting slits in the lip and using a hammer and pounding them in, holding as hard as I could against the outside. The sucky part is it also pushed the metal out and caused some dimpling. I highly advise against doing it this way. Im hoping that maybe wheel well trim will cover it, but Im doubting that will be the case. Im probably going to have to do some body work now to try to get it straightened out which means sanding down 2 year old paint.:violent1:

On a side note, if the drag star wheels had a different offset I probably would not of had to do this at all.

View attachment IMG_20150802_171039702.jpg

View attachment IMG_20150802_171055113.jpg

 

[Bad Sport]

Oh man.

 

[rklein383]

Cut it!! A 71 Scamp is never going to be valuable, as compared to other Mopars. Make it how you want it.

That is what I am doing with my 71 Barracuda, a 318 car... I am going to drive the heck out of it, just like I drove my 71 340 Cuda when I was in high school.

My two cents.

 

[autoxcuda]

I used a harbor freight 8" flat jaw sheet metal pliers (flat jaw is 3 2/8" wide) with the ends rounded off. The rounded off ends keep from putting pointer dents in the metal. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-flat-jaw-welding-pliers-93062.html

And I used small hammer. When I used a leather mallet, I made sure every strike I had a heavy body working dolly on the other side covered in thick cloth. Trick is to take very very small strikes and slowly work out the fold from the center.

You MUST have some hard wood or dolly on the other side of the metal or it will dimple out.

If you are going to make a cut, drill the small hole at the root of your cut. This keeps the metal from tearing and make it stronger than just slicing it.

 

[straightlinespeed]

I used a harbor freight 8" flat jaw sheet metal pliers (flat jaw is 3 2/8" wide) with the ends rounded off. The rounded off ends keep from putting pointer dents in the metal. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-flat-jaw-welding-pliers-93062.html

And I used small hammer. When I used a leather mallet, I made sure every strike I had a heavy body working dolly on the other side covered in thick cloth. Trick is to take very very small strikes and slowly work out the fold from the center.

You MUST have some hard wood or dolly on the other side of the metal or it will dimple out.

If you are going to make a cut, drill the small hole at the root of your cut. This keeps the metal from tearing and make it stronger than just slicing it.

Thanks for those tips.. Sadly its to late for me.. Now its time to figure out how to fix it..

 

[middleagecrisis]

Slice in a few places and fold up.

^Don't do this^ :violent1: You'll end up with rusted fender lips. Some idiots at a tire shop did this to one of my cars when I was young and dumb and didn't know better. Pay someone to professionally roll them, correctly measure your backspacing and you should be able to neatly fill your fenderwells.