WTF Big issue

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I can never get those tapes to last long. You can use the tape though to make a mark on the balancer at say 20 degrees btdc. Then you have two points to check. I mistakingly used some white duct tape on one of my cars marked it, now the duct tape is gone and my balancer is covered in the glue, lol. Never easy man.
 
80fbody said:
I can never get those tapes to last long. You can use the tape though to make a mark on the balancer at say 20 degrees btdc. Then you have two points to check. I mistakingly used some white duct tape on one of my cars marked it, now the duct tape is gone and my balancer is covered in the glue, lol. Never easy man.
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if you have access to a lathe and an old DC degreed timing wheel(which is the same outer diameter as the dampener), you can use a bolt and nut to temporarily attach it to the dampener. Chuck up dampener & wheel in lathe. Line up the degree wheel "zero" with the TDC mark, then use a sharp tool(like a threading tool, rotated 90 degrees) in a tool holder, and lined up exactly with each desired increment on the wheel, and run the saddle back and forth and scribe the dampener however many lines you need, then use some 1/8" stamps to stamp every 10 degrees. It's surprisingly easy to do.
 
My buddy left me an ol’ lathe but damn if I can only turn the thing on and polish **** with emery cloth. Lol
 
80fbody said:
My buddy left me an ol’ lathe but damn if I can only turn the thing on and polish **** with emery cloth. Lol
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the beauty of this is, you don't even have to turn the lathe "on". Just be able to operate a 3 or 4 jaw chuck to grab the dampener snout and get it to spin with minimal runout.
 
halifaxhops said:
I had the exact same issue. Turned out to be while cranking there was enough Vacuum to advance the vacuum advance, took a long time to find, and three starter noses . Remove the vacuum line to the distributor and see if it still happens.
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That's pretty interesting. How did you fix that?
 
80fbody said:
My buddy left me an ol’ lathe but damn if I can only turn the thing on and polish **** with emery cloth. Lol
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Mr pete 222 is a great instructor on the youtube. Has hundreds of videos about machining. Helped me understand my lathe. I knew nothing the day i brought it home.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Mr pete 222 is a great instructor on the youtube. Has hundreds of videos about machining. Helped me understand my lathe. I knew nothing the day i brought it home.
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That’s an awesome tip. Will definitely start watching them as I have time. Appreciate the lead.
 
To verify your timing. Find tdc with a piston stop. measure the circumference of the balancer. A narrow 6' tape measure or stagger tape works well. Divide the circumference by 360. Multiply the product times the number of degrees you want to time the engine to. Convert the decimal to a fraction . Now measure that amount from the tdc mark on the balancer with the same tape you used to measure circumference. I like to extend the mark down the front of the balancer across the elastomer on to the center hub. That way when checking timing I can see if the outer ring has slipped.
 
92b said:
To verify your timing. Find tdc with a piston stop. measure the circumference of the balancer. A narrow 6' tape measure or stagger tape works well. Divide the circumference by 360. Multiply the product times the number of degrees you want to time the engine to. Convert the decimal to a fraction . Now measure that amount from the tdc mark on the balancer with the same tape you used to measure circumference. I like to extend the mark down the front of the balancer across the elastomer on to the center hub. That way when checking timing I can see if the outer ring has slipped.
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'S the way I've done it since the '70's. You don't really need a lathe as discussed above, just a little (machinst's) square so you can scribe across. I had some number stamps, don't recall think I marked 20 and 40
 
Is the battery grounded to the frame or engine? Is the batt in the engine bay or trunk?
 
Was a weird one for sure. Took a while to figure out and prob because it had a non adjustable 60's vac advance llooking back at it so it started pulling early around 6 INHG
 
Update: I threw a core starter that works most of the time lol so I can try and diagnosis . With the coil wire grounded the motor cranks fine minus when I hit the broken teeth on the converter . It's gotta be something with the dizzy I went through.( I can be my own worst enemy sometimes) I'll have to pull it and see what I can find. I was thinking of maybe buying this Dizzy on Flea bay. Here's a pic of second broken starter .
For Mopar Electronic Ignition Distributor Big-Block 440 413 426 Hemi NOS Tan Cap | eBay

Starter 1.jpeg


Starter 2.jpeg
 
Kendog 170 said:
Update: I threw a core starter that works most of the time lol so I can try and diagnosis . With the coil wire grounded the motor cranks fine minus when I hit the broken teeth on the converter . It's gotta be something with the dizzy I went through.( I can be my own worst enemy sometimes) I'll have to pull it and see what I can find. I was thinking of maybe buying this Dizzy on Flea bay. Here's a pic of second broken starter .
For Mopar Electronic Ignition Distributor Big-Block 440 413 426 Hemi NOS Tan Cap | eBay

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Did you double check top dead center yet?
 
Can't imagine you can't fix your distributor if by chance it's "messed up". There's really not alot too them.
-Verify TDC
-Unplug vac advance if running it
-Check initial timing
-Rev and check total timing and see when it starts to come in and finish, rpm wise
-Plug in Vac advance if planning to use it and see if/how it changes your initial and total timing

That should tell you where the timing issue is coming from and then it's usually a quick adjustment for $0 to correct.
 
I had an earlier post when I installed my Dizzy after going through it because there was so much slop at the rotor. I did not think it was right but it was agreed that it was shaft to cam drive gear. I think this is the issue. I did change my springs 1heavy 1 light installed a limiting plate. Timing at 14 /34 total/ around 55 with (New) Vac can. But your right I (Should) be able to fix it. Lately it seems everything I touch turns to S%$T .
 
80fbody said:
.....I can never get those tapes to last long....
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I've used clear outdoor weather tape all the way around to keep them on in the past. Scribing the damper is best.

Lol, Maybe that new hairspray from Gorilla glue products will hold the tape on. :D

Kendog,
If you are using an old stock damper, once you determine TDC, you might mark the inner ring with the outer to help indicate slippage.
 
New Damper 6 years ago lol. Last fall I checked and TDC Mark was accurate using a bump stop . I'll check again
 
Still looking for my Piston bump stop :BangHead: But I set my balancer at 10' BTDC popped the cap and took a few pics. Still don't see anything wrong. I still need to drain out old gas and refresh. White mark on outer dizzy is #1 cylinder on cap.

Dizzy 1.jpeg


Dizzy 2.jpeg


Dizzy 3.jpeg


Dizzy 4.jpeg


Dizzy 5.jpeg
 
If you've got a little time, you can make a piston stop. Knock the end off an old plug at the top of the hex. Gut and drill out till you have a hole you can tap. Then it's just a long bolt or piece of all thread with the piston side smoothed out. 3/8" bolt may work.
 
Yes I've seen that done and will make one if I don't find it. I still have to drain the old gas out of it. Looking at the balancer the rubber looks good but I know I can't judge by that. My other issue is the car is a half hour away and since I moved I have some tools available and the rest packed away in storage.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Still looking for my Piston bump stop :BangHead: But I set my balancer at 10' BTDC popped the cap and took a few pics. Still don't see anything wrong. I still need to drain out old gas and refresh. White mark on outer dizzy is #1 cylinder on cap.

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10* BTDC is not enough initial timing
I would start at 16-18* and perhaps go up from there.
Good luck
 
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