yet another 318 build question........

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mrnurse

mrnurse

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this is parts compatability focused........

ok gonna start on my rebuild while the car is going off for paint and want to know if this will be a good combiniation.

318 block bored 30 over
stock rods with arp fastners
kb167 30 over
318 heads port matched, very mild porting, stock sized valves/rocker arms
not sure of which cam???(ideas welcome)
edelbrock torker 340 intake
windage tray
stock oil pan/pump/pickup tube
proven performance fuel injection system(looks like a holley carb)
72-72 340 hipo exhaust manifolds


any other ideas?

engine is going into a 70 two door swinger 904 auto
 
I wouldn't use the stock heads, have a set of 360 heads milled to achieve a combustion chamber volume and compression ratio that will work with your cam (when you chose one) or a set of LA-X heads
 
oh. I am gonna build this one. I have to strip the car down first and send it to the shop. while the car is there i was gonna rebuild the engine and the trans. I have a friend that owns a machine shop and he is gonna help me with the machining and head porting. what about a stock 340 intake? I know they are heavy and not as great as the aftermarket aluminum parts but I am not looking for max HP. I actually want to make it look close to factory but make more power. steath like ya know!!!!
 
de tune sounds like such a nasty thing to do.........
 
the problem with the 340 intake is the ports are bigger than the ports on the 318 heads
that is why I suggested using different heads, you may be able to open the 318 size ports to match the 340 size intake but you still have the small 318 valves, you can install 340 size valves in the 318 heads, but now your getting close to the cost of a new set of heads
 
I hear ya. but what is the opinion on the cast iron 340 intake? If the torker II is too much would that be a better intake?
 
oops i think i was typing when that one was posted.
 
the idea was already there to gasket match so thats not really the issue. and he is going to do some mild porting to help with the pinch areas. he said he thought the intake I had was a bit much for a mild 318. I just figured I am going to pain the intake the same as the rest of the engine and why not just use a cast 340 intake.
 
mrnurse said:
the idea was already there to gasket match so thats not really the issue. and he is going to do some mild porting to help with the pinch areas. he said he thought the intake I had was a bit much for a mild 318. I just figured I am going to pain the intake the same as the rest of the engine and why not just use a cast 340 intake.
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My 318 build was specifically looking to emulate the power and feel of a stock 340 using a 318 as the base engine.

My build plan also required that the engine compartment looked stock. That is the only reason I had selected the 340 cast iron intake.

You on the other hand are not limited in your selection.

I think the Edelbrock LD4B or Performer would be better choices if you stick with the small port heads (but I really don't know what Im talking about. lol)
 
i would really like the engine compartment to look stock. I am going for a "resto-mod" the mod part being the suspension and brakes....the body interior and engine compartment looking stock. and HP at the level of or slightly above the factory 340s was my goal as well.
 
It looks like you're shooting for a pretty stock rebuild, slightly warmed up. The Kb's are nice because of the added compression they provide, that alone really helps wake up the old 318's.

With that in mind, I'd say you'd be fine sticking with the stock heads. Putting a set of 1.88/1.60 valves in the stock heads doesn't cost all that much.

360 heads are good, but you don't need bigger ports unless you're shooting for 400 hp. And then you need to have the 360 heads milled to keep compression, which will probably require custom push rods, those two things alone will cost close to $300. And you still have to buy the 360 heads. Not worthwhile in my opinion. If you really want to go with new heads, you'd be better off either going with stock magnum heads for a significant improvement for not much money at all, or the RHS X-heads for some real power. You can search "magnum heads" or "RHS heads" to get more info on the cylinder head debate. Its hard to beat the RHS heads, considering that you can get a pair for around $1,300 ready to go. Makes messing with all the machine work on an old set of 360 heads not really worthwhile.

The Torker 340 intake is a mismatch for sure, both with port size and your intended power level. Not to mention that it wasn't a particularly good intake to start with, even for its intended purpose. A stock 340 intake would be fine! Other than the weight issue (it weighs about twice as much as an aluminum version), the stock iron 340 intake has basically the same design as an Edelbrock performer intake, and for your build it would be a good match and look stock.

As far as cams go, I like the Lunati Voodoo series. The 60402 is a good cam, fairly mild, but with a good sound at idle. You can also go with a 60403 (next step up), but that's about all I would do with the rest of your build, any bigger than that and you'd want to go with headers, more aggressive intake etc.

You might also want to look at aftermarket connecting rods. For the price of reconditioning and buying ARP bolts for the stock 318 rods you can get pretty close to a set of aftermarket rods (Eagle, SCAT, etc). They're stronger than the stock 318 rods (340 rods were stronger/heavier), and really don't cost a lot more once you've done all the work to update the stockers.

And there are a TON of 318 build threads on here. Even just in the last couple of months I'd bet there are at least a dozen to look at for ideas.
 
thanks, thats alot of helpful info!!! with the kb167s do i need to zero the deck or would that be just in the effort to hit that 400hp mark? if not would the block still need to be line honed and square decked?
 
mrnurse said:
thanks, thats alot of helpful info!!! with the kb167s do i need to zero the deck or would that be just in the effort to hit that 400hp mark? if not would the block still need to be line honed and square decked?
Click to expand...

It depends how tall the deck on your 318 is. More than likely, the KB167's would still end up being a few thousandths below the deck. Probably not a big deal for your build, and still a huge improvement over stock. On the other hand, zero decking the block shouldn't be a ton of money, and in addition to improving the compression ratio it will improve the quench, which will make things more efficient. Plus, if you decided later to upgrade your heads you'd have a better set up to do that.

Regardless, I would still have it square decked (which might put the pistons pretty darn close to zero deck anyway), just so that everything is the same side to side. A line hone probably isn't necessary unless you're going to switch from the stock main bolts to studs, in which case it would be a good idea.
 
I was looking at the main studs as well. at least for the purposes of installing the windage tray........
 
mrnurse said:
I was looking at the main studs as well. at least for the purposes of installing the windage tray........
Click to expand...

For a stock mopar windage tray you don't need them. Mopar makes main bolts that have a taller threaded section to take the windage tray bolts. This set up isn't adjustable, but its better than no windage tray and works just fine, especially for more mild, non-race type builds.

If you go with a aftermarket windage tray (like a milodon or similar), they sell a main stud kit that also uses studs to intall the windage tray. This set up is adjustable, ie, you can position the height of the windage tray to improve its location and efficiency. You'd want to go entirely to main studs for this set up, and if you do that you should get a line hone to make sure the clamping forces with the studs are equal.
 
correct me if im wrong but i think later on in the 70s you could get the 318 with a factory 4bbl. you should look into getting one of those if they even exist.
 
They did, in cop cars and trucks. However they all used 360 intakes and heads and were pretty doggy. You can do better by getting a Performer 318/360 witht he smaller 318 sized intake ports than running a 340/360 sized intake, and they can be had usually under $100 at swaps and stuff..
 
For the intake, consider a Edelbrock Performer, Weiand Action Plus, or a used Edelbrock LD4B. The Performer is readily available but the thermostat housing is slightly offset for the later style A/C compressor. Not a big deal functionally, but if you really want it to look "stock" it may be a factor. The Weiand is another good street oriented small port intake. The Edelbrock LD4B is an excellent choice, but they are long discontinued, and a nice one can cost as much as a new Weiand or Performer. Used Performers are readily available and generally priced pretty cheap on eBay.

The Torker is a big port single plane, and wouldn't be my first choice under 400 HP (nor would it be my first choice among big port single planes). If you really want a single plane, find an old Holley Street Dominator, they were small port. You didn't mention gears, but unless you are running 3.91's or 4.10's and a 2800 + RPM converter, you would probably like a dual plane better.

If your heads need to be rebuilt, consider fitting stock 360 valves. Price is the same either way. The 360 valves and a mild port job is about as good as it gets with 318 heads. They'll support 300 HP just fine. Beyond that point, you need something that flows more.
 
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