Z Bar

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Jay B

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1969 Swinger, 340 4Spd, Doug's ceramic coated headers. I started with a Slant 6 Z-Bar, I converted to 340 with Dougs Headers, according to drawings i saw on this site. I dont get enough throw to disengage pressure plate and have any free play. At pedal rest throwout bearing is close to diaphram but not enough travel to disengage. LUK clutch. Must be overlooking something obvious...
 
If you modified the z-bar, or not, this is what the mod should be.
We had a fella mod the z-bar, but "clocked it" wrong and kinda had issues like you are experiencing.

IMG_20240512_202833.jpg
 
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The down arm should swing freely between the two upper tubes.
Adjust (bend) as nec. after the above modification.
 
That's the drawing i used, almost positive i got it right. Not too sure about throwout arm and pivot in bellhousing though. I cant figure out how to attach photos from phone.
 
The other common problem is wrong pivot mount on trans.
The z-bar should be sorta square to the engine/trans assembly.
Check a few posts ago. (trans section)
Uncle Bob? Had some decent pics from above of shaft "attitude".
 
you get the same if the bar is not in the right position in respect to the rail.

push it right up to the chassis rail. add the spring clip and then move it slowly away until you see the spring clip ends sink into the grooves in the white nylon half moon bushes on that side.

if you don't get this right the bar moves across towards the bellhousing. the spring clip ends sit past the inner end of the half moon bushes and all seems well but your clutch doesn't work due to the fact that the z bar in 3/4 of an inch in towards the centre of the car.
the angles are all slightly off and the spring clip for the pushrod binds on the pushrod eye.

the above scenario seems obvious. but is so easy to get wrong.
have to wonder how many Z bars have had their lower arms bent and twisted to "get them to work" when the issue is incorrect mounting

dave
 
I have a TII Z bar and Dougs. I had to shim the z-bar over to the bell housing and get a clickable starter to get everything to clear. I also had to install a return spring under the dash with a Diaphragm clutch. Sometimes you gotta' do what you have to do to get things to line up.

FYI I had the same fitment issues with a modified to print stock bar too.
 
The first coupla z-bars I altered, I had to re-alter (re-clock) as well, lol
The spring clip is easily overlooked, thnx Dave.
The bar in backwards/reversed can mess it up too.
Good luck, and patience .
 
The other common problem is wrong pivot mount on trans.
The z-bar should be sorta square to the engine/trans assembly.
Check a few posts ago. (trans section)
Uncle Bob? Had some decent pics from above of shaft "attitude".
Yeah I did but AFAICT those showed how mine was out of whack and I haven't taken any photos of it since fixing that. I'll see what I can find though.

Basically the Z-bar has to be level and parallel to the frame rail. The two pivots should be directly across from each other.

I bought a TTI z-bar to work with the Doug's headers, it works great, or at least the pedal feels right. It definitely has enough trave to disengage the disc. I set it up using a 1/4" stack of feeler gauges between the TO bearing and the PP fingers (per McLeod's instructions) then tightened it up a little bit after that to get it where it needs to be.
 
push it right up to the chassis rail. add the spring clip and then move it slowly away until you see the spring clip ends sink into the grooves in the white nylon half moon bushes on that side.
I put mine in the opposite way - completely assembled the frame rail side so I knew for certain the spacing was right on that side, shoved the bellhousing side all the way into the z-bar so I had room to start the frame rail side stud, threaded the nut on the outside for the pivot ball, then pulled it back out until the pivot bracket met the bellhousing.
 
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