Allot of reading leads to knowledge but reading what others have already experienced hopefully leads to not experiencing it yourself. I put the ductile Crane adjustable rockers on with the ball/cup 5/16th pushrods. 1st the cup literally bumps the rocker with no adjuster even in it. Not to worry, they will work with hydraulics. But if I was gapping for solids I would have to disassemble the the shafts and grind clearance for the cups depending on the lifter, but thats what it looks like, a solid lifter eating assembly, FYI. I used the Hughes Chart from 70 Cuda's post and followed the firing order sequence. Because of the pushrod cup to rockerarm clearance and also experience from setting other hydraulic lifters I set them to 3/4 turn after setting lash. The cups clear and I hopefully don't have to worry about doing it again because of a ticking lifter that was set to 1/4 turn or even 3/8 which all of us who have ever done this before know that sometimes it just has to be a 1/2 turn on one or more of them. According to Larry Shepards How To Hot Rod Small Block Mopars the setting is suppose to be 1/2 to 1 turn after lash. I was probably right when I said 5/8's but because of the interference of the cups and rockers 3/4 is much safer. All is good, now I just have to put it the rest of the way back together and hopefully I wont have to much preload. If I recall right that causes roughness and I am going to have a hell of a time feeling that with the rough cam thats in it, which I already want to change. I want to pull the engine and rework it again, it's not rough enough, ha ha ha. Well wanting and doing are two different things!
