Gator
Mopar or No Car
I am old school so for 20+ years I have been using STP oil treatment which contains zinc to every oil change and never have I had any issues in my current 340 and my previous 440 R/T
Zinc oil additives
- Thread starter Darrell Keith
- Start date
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The whole reason detergents were added, IMO was because people either would not change their oil, ir did it way less frequently than they should. I think you could run the old single weight non detergent oil as long as there was sufficient ZDDP for the type of lifter you run. That's my opinion and I'm stickin to it.
I agree, it does. HOWEVER, be very aware of the store brand STP oil treatment. READ the label and you will find out that most all store brands do not contain any ZDDP at all. I know for a fact the Oreilly brand does not. So use the real thing.
Right. I always thought the "It doesn't mix" theory was bunk anyway. Those chemists know what the hell they're doing!
Yep.
What does detergent in motor oil do?
Detergent oils have enhanced additive packages blending in them to prevent rust, break down engine sludge and stabilize acids to prolong oil life. With a newer engine or an engine that has been running on a detergent oil for years this is the right choice, it keeps your engine cleaner and running smoothly.Jan 20, 2020
autopar3000
Well-Known Member
My Dodge is a roller engine so I don't think too much about ZDDP for that car, but in my 85 Celica Supra I use Mobil1 0w-40 full synthetic. It's on the shelf in the local parts stores and is not expensive. I would use the 15w-50 if I could find it locally, more for the extra viscosity than the anti wear agents.
https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/...engine-oils-product-guide-sheet--may-2022.pdf
https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/...engine-oils-product-guide-sheet--may-2022.pdf
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
They use detergents and dispersants (among other things) because no engine has ever run on “new” oil. All engines run on used oil unless you change it every 15 minutes of run time.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Driven GP1. That’s what my builder said to use. (IMM Engines) $10.95 qt from summit, if ordered before 7pm it’s here tomorrow.
But I’m sure there are other great oils as well.
But I’m sure there are other great oils as well.
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
I just crush up a few of these at oil change time, line it up on the inner fender, pull a vacuum hose and let her eat.
Gator
Mopar or No Car
Thats what I had heard also so every time I buy a bottle I read to make sure it does indeed contain zinc.
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
I find it impossible to believe that the additives would just sit in the bottom of the pan.
The sump is supposed to sit on the bottom of the pan and suck out all of the oil mixture and send it through the oil galleries of the engine and then it drains back to the pan and is always recycled and the additives are in suspension.
Now a different argument to make would be that the detergents wash the Zinc additives off the cam almost right away, so they have little to no affect in preserving the cam and lifters, which is more believable to me...
If additives just sit in the bottom of the pan, then that means every single oil pan has additives sitting in the bottom, because every single oil out there has additive packages as part of the oil. Do they separate? Hell no.
1973 valiant
1973 valiant
I use Castrol 10w40 in my 318 with a bottle of STP that has zinc in it in my73 valiant with a Purolator filter my dad used to use it in his satellite back in the70s , never had any problems. when I used 15w40 in my 318 duster I had to drain it out the lifters were going tapity tapity tap tap.. I went back to 10w40 Castrol with STP.
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
I have a 2005 Cummings diesel that I use Rotela, 15 - 40, sense new (200,000 miles, now), I was wanting to use the same in my 69' 340 Dart, but was told (don't remember who) that it was not good for my flat tappet cam. I do add an additive, but would rather just use the Rotela for both. Any input?
That’s what I use, works greatb
1973 valiant
1973 valiant
I myself had a bad experience with the rotella in my duster when I had it. soon as I fired it up lifter noises scared me and the oil pressure went up to 80pounds I got afraid that I was going to blow the seals out the engine so drained it out and used 5 quarts of Castrol 10w40 with a bottle of STP and it quieted down I know everyone uses rotella 15w40 and have no problems . I'm just Leary about using it I have my 318 1973 valiant and I use Valvoline 10w40 with STP additive and it works but that engine is all original never been rebuilt what works for me may not work on others I live in north Carolina so I use 10w 40 if I was in Florida I would use 10w 50 . if I was in NY I would use 10w30 because of temperature and altitude this is just my experience of what I've experienced
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
That is a delicate subject. Most on the shelf oils are formulated for catalytic converter autos these days. The ZDDP kills converters so the OEMs pushed oil companies to remove most of the harmful additives, which necessitated the swith to roller cams.
Oil formulation is a complex subject. Do you know how much of what is in the oil? Do you know what is beneficial and what is not? Best to purchase an oil formulated for flat tappet followers. You need about 1,200ppm of zinc to protect the cam and lifters. Too much may also be harmful. That additive bottle, do you put 1/4, 1/2 or all of it in?
^^^^ This! ^^^^
I think I might ditch the Rotella T this Year and Switch to a Regular Valvoline instead...
This! Yeah, I was wondering why My Oil Pressure was Soo damn High! Stock Pump at Idle is over 70 psi!
I think I might ditch the Rotella T this Year and Switch to a Regular Valvoline instead...
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
Additives in oil should not sit on the bottom of the pan. There is a terrific amount of turbulence in there. Now how well it mixes is debatable. Detergent and dispersant additives help keep byproducts of combustion in suspension so the oil filter can trap them. Poorly maintained engines show up easily on teardown with sludge coating everything not in contact with another part. Older engines like from the 50's that used nondetergent oils generally have a coating of sludge 1/4" to 1/2" thick on the heads under the valve covers, in the lifter valley and inside the crankcase.
slantsixdan
=..=
julius2
Member
I use Valvoline VR1 20-50 it has a high zinc content
I'm surprised at the silence by popular 'Hot-Rod' type magazines on this topic for flat-tappet type original engines. I'd like to know from an unbiased source, if there is a mixing problem that makes additives ineffective or if there is a vested economic interest with this claim, with adding additives, too.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Once again, for the umpteenth time ALL engine oils have some form of phosphated zinc in it. ALL of them.
It can’t be engine oil without it. It wasn’t all removed it was reduced.
Since that particular additive is a consumable it gets used up. With less to start with you run out (or don’t have enough left) sooner and then you get a failure.
Phosphated zinc is a power eater. When you add more than you need, power drops. Quite a bit.
When an oil is blended the tribologist takes into account how each component affect the others in either a positive or negative way. Because any component brings its own chemistry to do a certain job but it can (and will) affect how the other components do their job.
If the oil someone is using is so bad that it needs some additive its time to buy a better oil.
Adding a zinc product is a bad idea because no one on here knows exactly what the outcome will be when it’s done. You can add something and it may make the dispersant package less effective. Or it can make the detergent package less effective.
Unless someone has the ability to analyze the original oil and then analyze it again with the additive it can’t be predicted or known what the outcome will be unless it has been tested before.
I know the myth that additives fall out of the oil. I’ve only seen that happen in one situation. The issue is what happens when someone adds something to an oil that the tribologist who built the oil never intended to use.
Buy the right oil the first time and leave the additives on the shelf for the suckers.
Take post 48 and bookmark it. Or make a sticky. Or do what is needed so when the same question arises in a few weeks it can be referred to here.
Yeah, he's an infected dog's butthole sometimes, but when he's right he's right. lol
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