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I think most will agree forged is better, but is it needed?

Timing chain cover?

On the topic of shaved heads, how much can be shaved before the intake needs machining?

I wish there was a 'Love it!' button.. That's some funny (and very true) ****!

A good bit more than a henway.

Torque or horsepower... Why do have to choose just one?

Just twist and wiggle once the clamp is off. Good idea to mark housing and rotor position for reinstall..

So it took a #2 in #4 and now it's deep 6'd?

Any would be good for me!

That ain't yours!

I found grade 5 uncoated stuxs in the 'specialty' bins at the local Ace Hardware. $1.05 each.

That ought to be lots of fun!

In add8tion to the giggles from reading this thread, I'd like to thank you for the education! Easy to ID a forged vs cast crankshaft. I just checked my stash. I have one of each!

Brass looks really cool tho!

Trans will need to be supported while engine is out. wheeled floor jack works well. torque converter bolts, engine-to-trans bolts and exhaust bolts are usually the only troublesome ones. double check that all wiring is disconnected before yanking the engine, surprising how strong a forgotten...

I've always found that a little extra lube is a good thing...

Since nodoby else said it... Just kick this guy out of your car!

Says the yankee that lives in a wintery climate!

does it do good burnouts? You are required to fry the old tires before putting on new ones!

Good to be appreciated!

I love it when **** works out! Hope it goes in without a hitch now..

These count?

I dig ordinary. Looks perfect..

I want to paint it, but it's a Leanna powdercoat masterpiece. Seems sacrilege to put paint on it. I have no excuse for the water pump but laziness..

Here's one just for giggles.

326 HP.. And I'm sticking to it!

Ok. So i think i finally got the visual in thick skull (put the bourbon down for a moment).. I've been focusing on exhaust closing/intake opening (overlap if I'm not mistaken). Reading your description, intake closing point seems more important. . Close the intake earlier, make more...

So a 'tight' lsa while keeping duration in check doesn't kill DCR? I assumed that in general, the tighter the lsa, the more overlap (both valves open) and the lower your DCR.. i got lots to learn! Been following these crazy threads trying to get educated. Seems the more i learn, the less I know!

I'm all jacked up! I'd have guessed a tighter lsa (all else semi-equal) would have helped top end at the expense of low end. That's why i let people smarter than me figure that stuff out!

Which one is Brad?