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On the torsion bar, the hexes at each end are not in line. Thus each side is different. Lay the bar on a flat surface and you can see it.

When I got mine together, I took it to a local shop that often does race cars. They dialed in a lot of extra caster in my case. Look for a shop like that.

Some brake conversion info is here: Disk Brake Conversion Info The ball joint info is here: Steering Linkage

I'm guessing the guy who converted the front from drums to discs did that weld job instead of changing out the control arms. '73 and newer uses a larger ball joint.

I'm running an Addco bar. The bar is great, but the mounting hardware is terrible. The k-member brackets wobble all over, which means the bar does nothing for you. I made my own brackets welded to the K member. Also made my own end links. Travel is nice and smooth.

What t-bars are in it now? Measure the diameter with a caliper, if possible. Are you running the anti-sway bar, or is it removed?

If you're going for an accurate restoration, and you need those, I don't know where to get them. If you're going to drive it hard, omit the rubber pad.

You'll have to back the adjuster all the way out. Make sure you get the T-bars installed on the corect side of the car. They are different left-to-right. You'll know if you're off by one position - it's 60 degrees to the next flat!

I'm running 8-3/4, 742 case, sure grip, aftermarket axles, 7290 yoke. 12.26 ET with a four speed and drag radials. Maybe with real slicks I would be in trouble, but so far, so good. 460HP 340 by the way.

My car has relocated springs, widened wheelwells, and stock width A-body rear with 11x2.5 brakes. I run a pair of Convo Pros. 15x9 with 6.5" backspace. Hoosier 275-15 drag radials. Fits fine, there is even room to go wider. I don't think they would fit without the widened wheelwells, though...

Glad to hear you like them. Where you'll notice a real difference is when you try to steer while braking. The old rubber bushed ones would allow the lower control arm to move, creating negative caster. You won't get that now. 3 or 4 degrees should be fine. My front end guy dialed in 6...

You mean for the ball joint? Ball joint threads are an oddball knuckle thread to start with. If you can get the old joint out, thread the new one in and see if you're comfortable with it. The upper ball joint doesn't support the weight of the vehicle, so you don't have to worry much about the...

If you're doing a restoration, and you want 4" bolt pattern, that price is not a bargain, but not out-of-line either. If you're thinking 4.5" bolt pattern, forget about buying an A body rear end. You'll have the right width housing, with the right spring perches, but the axles and brakes will...

Awesome. Those are the ultra-rare road racing pieces. Not quite as strong as the factory parts, but very light weight.

Why are the tie rods spaced so far from the steering arm, and why is the stud so long? The spacers on the bottom are not helping you. Also, why does the nylock nut on top of the steering arm not have enough thread engagement? The stud should stick out by at least a couple threads.

I think the Hellwig setup is the best all-around arrangement. Firm Feel's looks ok too, but I would prefer the lighter weight hollow bar, if it were me. I'm curious how the bar's ends are done... sleeved where the end link is, or if there's a solid end welded into the tube... ???

I have them, along with the UCA's with the heim ends. Are they harsher? Don't know - the whole car is "harsh". lol The car drives fantastic, though.

Don't know for SURE, but I expect the coupler has a master spline. The later models do. I ditched my "box of grease" and went with a coupler from Flaming River. Although you may be able to figure out which Borgeson joint to use and do it yourself cheaper, the Flaming River coupler is the...

x2 Not looking to buy one, just interested.

Mine measures 46-3/4 over-all, and about 44-7/8 hole-to-hole. You need to use their hardware on the ends, which mounts the end link to the shock bolt, not the factory sway bar tabs. The Addco bar will be below the shock bolt. It might be possible to use factory tabs, don't know. Make some...

My Duster was aligned by a shop and it's got 6 degrees caster. I told them I wanted it to be stable at high speeds and it is definitely that. A little less might be nice though, because the effort is pretty high.

Yes, it does. These strut rods are from RMS. http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/home.php?cat=266 I also used RMS upper control arms. Believe it or not, I'm running about 6 degrees caster now. The steering effort is pretty high, but at speed, it's straight as an arrow. I also used Addco's...

Yes.

My home-brewed anti-sway bar links. This was my 2nd attempt, and the pic was taken while I was still cutting and fitting. RMS tubular strut rods Also have RMS UCA's, but no pictures. T-bars are .890 Mopar Performance bars. Aligned to spec, except caster, which is at 6 degrees. Rear...

A heads-up for you: The '72 and earlier sway bar is wider than the '73 and later. The LCA mounts are in a different place. This is my '72, but it has a '73 K member and anti-sway bar. Notice where the sway bar mounts. Here is the proper '72 and earlier arrangement.

Interference there is not uncommon depending on your headers. Isn't the aluminum a little harsh?

I'm running the .890 383 torsion bars with a 1-1/8" Addco anti-sway bar. The sway bar links are heim ends and poly bushings, plus the frame brackets are VERY sturdy. So, the t-bars give a decent ride, but the car still corners nice and flat. At the same time, I haven't heard anybody complain...

A few tips, for what it's worth... Crack the lower ball joint bolts/nuts loose on the car. Easier than using a vise. If you're taking out the torsion bars, loosen the nut on the lower control arm shaft that mounts in the K-member. That will let the LCA pivot freely. Take the clip out at...

Bill's stuff is top notch. I only have his UCA's and strut rods, but if I went full-tilt, it would be an AlterKtion.

I wouldn't get too worried about it if I were you. The shaft is held on one end by the steering box, and on the other end by the little bearing at the top of the column. You can run with nothing in the bottom of the tube, and it's not a big deal. On my car, I had a buddy turn one out of a...