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I have similar ones on my 340 that came in gasket set from Mopar a few years back. I have been using these on my race car 340 and have had them on and off many times and they do not leak. Do not have to use any sealant either!!

Radar and Woody do some real nice work.

A few years back we took a 318 and put it in a 70 dart. We used a stock grind cam from a 1970 Dodge 340 motor. This cam gave it some lope plus it gave it a lot of performance. We had a Holley 500 2 barrel carb on it and it ran in the high 14's in the 1/4 mile.

They also had a tall block 383 back then that came in trucks. Check the distributor length.

Got as much torque as Horsepower. Don't need RPM to go fast. This motor was built to live. We set the piston out of the hole 18 thousands to get Compression. The heads are the key to the combination. big valve and lots of flow at 6000 rpm. Also the right center line cam helps to make the torque...

My flat top piston, 13:1 compression, 3.79 stroke, 571 lift cam, 950 HP Holley Carb, 20 over 340 block in a 3500LB Barracuda goes 10:80's shifting at 5800 and going through traps at 6500. 3.79 strokers rule!

I'm with Yellowdart Dave and Fastback 340 on this one

I'm with Yellowdartdave and Fastback 340 on this one

I would never run Ross again. Had one pull the wrist pin right out of the slug. My machinist said it was the worst excuse for a piston he ever saw. Destroyed the entire motor and they wouldn't even replace the broken piston that only had one weekend of racing on it. Been with J & E ever since...

It must be a Ford. Flip it Over and Read the Directions. That is unless it was Found On the Road Dead.

The only way to know exatly where your cam is degreed is to use a degree wheel and set it up like the manufactur intended it to be.

Just bolt it in and go!!

Yes the same side.

95 is right for stock bolts and light oil or moly lube works fine.

J & E custom set for my combination. Mine are flat tops 18 thousands out of the hole with bevels along edge for head clearance on my W-2 heads. This give me close to 13 to 1 compression. I have a 3.79 stroke crank. I would never use Ross or even recommend then to my worst enemy.

Besure to run a thread tap down the bolt holes prior to installing studs. This removes any old crud and burrs that will stop stud from going all the way in easily. I use a thin coating of light 0-30 mobil 1 on threads and only turn the studs down snug as if they were hand tight. I never use lock...

I use the Assembly lube made by clevite when installing any cam that has not given me their lube. I also only use Brad Penn break in oil for all my motors since they stopped making a good oil with zinc and I also use Comp Cams break in lube added to the oil. I get this break in lube from Summit...

Yes I agree with regular race fuel but the VP113 as opposed to C12 or C14, burns much faster because it is oxygenated and burns more like street pump gas. Every motor I have tried this in from a 9.5 to 1 440 with a 950 Hp Holley to my 392 Stroker with 13 to 1 and a 950 hp Holley has picked up...

At my age I was racing as the intimidator long before he started to be famous and drive chebbies lol Was he racing back in the 60's?

Every motor that I have ever seen that had a cam go flat also had some damage to the rod bearings as well as the oil pump and cylinder walls. If I was keeping this motor I would check it over from top to bottom. Spun bearings get very expensive later.

I would put a 950 HP holley on there with a 2" open aluminum spacer on manifold and another 2" 4 hole Phenolic spacer next to the carb. As for power valve go to 2.5's. Use Vp 113 fuel. Timing should be able to run in the 32 to 34 degree range. Do not need bigger cam infact one with less...

I had a noise simular to this one time. I had someone install bronze wall guides on my valves and they had the valve side clearance to tight on the exhaust valves and with the new oil seals on stems didn't allow for much lubrication. It was causing the valves to stick when it warmed up and not...

Ported Strip Dominator with Ported W-2 heads

Motor homes will have full floated wrist pins like the 340 did. They will also probably have a steel crank rather than cast one. Some times the had different hollow stem valves. Also a lower compression.

Ditto to this. Just don't let it idle until after breakin time is done.

The higher the pitch of the ring of the forged crank the better the crank. The closer the ring gets to a thunk the more chance there is that it has a crack in it.

Dittio BJR. You can never clean a motor enough. When motors are machined the crud goes everywhere inside. And don't listen to guys that tell you that you have to check your bearing clearance with plastigauge. mic's are the only real accurate way. Plastiguage is verys to much. I do my own work...

Those are the econo heads.I think the race heads are already clearanced for bigger pushrods. Any way mine were. Real bummer when you have to tear down and do stuff over again. I been there and done that with other things. Put bottom end together on motor one time and was getting ready to put on...

My 1965 273 small block didn't have it in the cover. It had a bolt on tab that was on the passenger side of the motor. It is possible they have a timing cover off of an old 273 small block and that is why they had a wire timing mark pointer. Always make sure that the dampner you are using...

Thats why I use the formula I use. I only have to remember the .785 number. That is as long as I can still count how many cylinders it has. I don't like trying to remember the numbers to use for 4, 6, and 10 cylinder motors. Bore x Bore x Stroke x .785 x # cylinders = cubis inches