good ignition module?

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pjc360

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It's time for a new ignition module, i have been trying to figure what kind of module i should get, who makes a good module as far as being reliable and lasting long? should i get a borg warner select or a napa echlin or a car quest blue line or a mopar orange box? i want a good module thats going to last a long time and provide good spark.
 
pjc360 said:
It's time for a new ignition module, i have been trying to figure what kind of module i should get, who makes a good module as far as being reliable and lasting long? should i get a borg warner select or a napa echlin or a car quest blue line or a mopar orange box? i want a good module thats going to last a long time and provide good spark.
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I would get the MP chrome unit.
 
Isnt there one mopar module for race and one for street? Whatever the case, is it still true that the factory ignition is just fine for most street performance engines? I remember a few years ago when something like a 6AL wasnt worth getting if you had the Mopar ignition.

sorry about highjacking the thread.

As far as your question I would go with Mopar also.
 
All the aftermarket stuff,the same.Run a good coil and wires,with a good orange box.
 
Abodybomber said:
with a "good" orange box.
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Thats the problem, finding one thats good lol, The oranges boxes have a reputation for having issues, thats why i recammended the chrome.

I personally don't care for MP ignitions or dizzys anymore, I'll take an MSD dizzy & 6AL anyday.
 
Abodybomber said:
All the aftermarket stuff,the same.Run a good coil and wires,with a good orange box.
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My Crane Hi6 smoothed out my idle, the engine ran cooler and the gas mileage improved. Thats on a 12 sec 318 stroker.

That said - the Chrome box is a good piece of kit for a milder engine.....not sure I'd trust the orange one though...they seem to have a few more issues..
 
I've swapped all my cars to HEI.
Superior to any mopar ECUs.
Cheap and reliable.
I use Bosch pn BIM024 but heard good things abt the GM pn IM112
 
nqkjw said:
I've swapped all my cars to HEI.
Superior to any mopar ECUs.
Cheap and reliable.
I use Bosch pn BIM024 but heard good things abt the GM pn IM112
Click to expand...

Me three. I use whatever the "good" NAPA / Echlin HEI is. In my case I got by with the stocker coil and no resistor. Zero problems.
 
I'm running the orange box in my Barracuda. If you get the "real" ones, they are good, but some of them are junk. I am running an MSD E-curve on my Duster, which has no box to it.
 
The Mopar box is best to keep your existing wiring, but you must keep the ballast (or coil with internal resistance). For more kick, you can wire an MSD Stacker across the coil to contribute multi-spark. I am slowly converting my 60's cars to HEI. Two have the Crane XR700, but it is little better than the Mopar box, still requiring a ballast.
 
How about the REV-N-NATOR ???
looks just like a factory box, has been completly redesigned and has a rev limiter. check it out. I have no idea if these are any good or not, but maybe someone else has on these forums. I have all Mallory ignition, but if I didn't I might give this a try JMO.

http://www.thertgarage.com/products.html
 

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Standard Ignition/Blue Streak LX-101 is the best I know of. The Orange box pulls out timing and fails pretty often. The other aftermarkets aren't too much better.
 
Moper - Any idea when the "Standard Ignition" brand box starts cutting out? Would consider my orange box as the "trunk spare".
 
There good to about 5500, maybe 6000 but thats it, Its not just the limiter it has a tendensy to go south for no reason.
 
I don't know where people are getting all this "rev limited" stuff. Back when I ran the 340,/ solid cam in the old Landcruiser, that thing routinely saw over 7K in a mud hole
 
FBO..haven't heard much from him lately though. Re-engineered Mopar ECU with all the bad stuff fixed (timing and reliability issues) I run Mallory and havent had a failure yet. 2 MSD's left me high and dry.
 
I would love to run a mallory system as well, and when i can afford it i will be getting a mallory ignition wired in, my old man ran a mallory ignition on his 70 cuda 440- 6 pak, never had any problems with the mallory ignition, the only problems he seemed to have was keeping the holley 6 pak carbs tuned and happy, he'd get them tuned just right and park it for a week or two go start it and he'd be re tuning them again, but that 440 had an extremeley nasty cam.
I have a gold box and an orange box, i wired the gold box up just to see if it would start on it and it did, i dont know if the gold box i have is the mopar gold box or not, but im leaning twords no, unless its the old style gold box. The gold box is made in mexico and has the black fins on the front of it, the orange box i have says made in usa, i know the orange box is a mopar box, just not sure about this gold box, it has a few numbers on the back, but i dont know if they are the part numbers or not? i just tried the gold box with the black fins because it looks newer and the contacts are brighter then the contacts on my orange box, i'm going to try the orange box tommarrow and see if it works and if it does i'll run the orange box untill i can order a mopar chrome box, since thats what the majority of the people have been suggesting thats what i'll get.
I just wish i knew weather or not this gold box i have is the mopar gold box or just an aftermarket box like an echlin or wells or borg warner? by the way has anyone had any luck with the duralast ignition modules? i can pick one up at an autozone for 19.99 and it comes with a life time warranty, i just always thought the duralast brand was a cheapy brand, but the guy behind counter at autozone swears the duralast ignition parts are made by wells? does wells make good stuff? or would i be better off getting a standard or a borg warner or echlin? or just the chrome mopar box?
 
I ran my LX-101s to as high as 7200 on the 340 I had. There is no rev limiter built in. There's none in the orange ECU either. The Standard part is the same as the FBO part from everything I've seen.
 
I wish i could get ahold of a standard lx-101, i was told that the car quest permium blue ignition parts are made by standard? any truth to that? and who makes the best replacement ignition parts? standard? borg warner? echlin? wells? i have an echlin cap and rotor and a borg warner select coil and borg warner plug wires and a borg warner voltage regulator with the mopar orange ecu box. but i want to get a spare module just incase and i want a good reliable module, it sounds like tha favorite around here other then the mopar modules are standard modules, be nice to know if standard is still making the ignition parts for car quest's blue line.
 
I had always been told that the napa echlin brand is the best there is as far as ignition replacement parts, and then standard or borg warner. never have heard anything good about wells or duralast or masterpro or the car quest red line or the napa mileage plus, heard all that was grbage, always been told that napa echlin, borg warner and standard is as good as it gets for ignition and electrical replacement parts, is this true? and wich one of them brands do yoiu guys think makes the best replacement parts?
 
In the last few years, I've seen a lot of **** from Borg Warner. One very disturbing case was my Uncle, who just died, who went through about 3 of BW "continuous duty" solenoids, for no apparent reason.
 
i can get the standard lx 101-t series ignition module for 13.50 plus shipping and handling from rockauto.com, is this the lx 101 module that everyone is talking about here? what's t-series mean? is t-series there permium line up or there cheaper line up? if its the premium standard ignition module i will but it, one person said they have went up 7000 rpm with a standard lx 101, just wondering if the t-series is the good stuff or the econmy stuff.
 
T-series is the economy stuff, MADE IN CHINA. I have one, seems fine. I have a USA orange box brand new for sale on eBay right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/270900027739?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 $3 off for FABO members. Honestly, carry a spare ecu and ballast resistor at all times in the glove box no matter what you end up getting! Wells makes good stuff, duralast has a good warranty, and Standard Bluestreak stuff is great but the T-series is economy and everybody will tell you they're crap but if you're not racing, who cares you don't need to worry about this 7,000rpm mumbo-jumbo daily drivers might see a few seconds of that kind of RPM once in a great while and sure, the modules will work fine no need to drop $50 for a "race"module in my opinion. Never the less, carry a spare THAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE. Regards, -Dan
 
T series is the least expensive, and the X series is the premium, but there is so much reboxing in autoparts everywhere that its gonna be an easter egg hunt no matter where your preffered X brand of part or parts house is....
 
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