Stroker Smallblock cost

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To answer an older question, the 465 hp 410 stroker costs $11,500. And the 540hp 440 stroker costs $11,995 (single carb).
 
I will build one like this for( $8500.00 INDY head) ( $7500.00 Edelbrock head) Carburator to oil pan. (less distributor)( Less valve covers ).
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"I've been trying to get a definite price from Mopar Performance for the crate motor I want (part # P5153527) but haven't heard anything definite. I wrote Mopar performance & told them I had been trying for nearly a year to get a price on the motor. I said I had checked with my dealer, who told me the part number is good but no price is listed for it. I also told them I had checked on line with several vendors but none had been able to give me a price."

whenever MP makes that motor available, call the guy at westoaks chrysler. i forgot his name right now, but he's a pro thats been workin there for awhile. got my early 360/380 crate from them (no teardown and no problems) for the best price i could find and best of all they're not locked in with a shipper. they use a shipping agent who finds the cheapest method to ship, which is sorta important to me.

having said that, the only reason i got the crate motor was to drive my valiant while i rebuilt the 340 that kinda blew up, and then put the crate into my 68 dart when the rebuild was done. the 340 was DOA upon inspection so i just picked up a low miles 340 block from a retired racer who had it as a spare.
i really don't know any good machinist here so i'm planning on sending my block to chenoweth racing for their "block in a bag" deal, and we'll go from there, look for best deal and shipping for a forged set.

i'm concerned about the lower end. are the steel caps recommended? are the two bolt caps enough to handle upwards of 600 hp? and then theres splayed and symetric bolt patterns, geez!

btw, this is a great thread 64 cuda, good luck!
aloha- pauly
 
My 416 cost just under $10k well worth every penny spent,i used one of the best machine shops in the northeast for my machine work,and a very talented assembler to put it together,end result 519h.p. and 11.0's so far...
 
sell all the 340 stuff - get a 360 truck block - buy a hughes 426ci complete kit - give it all to a reputable machine shop to machine and assemble - add a good set of heads and a cam in the 236*@50 range. you will have a 500hp torque monster that idles like a stock 340 and the uniqueness of having a "426" in your cuda. you will more than drool !!
Better yet, I'll sell you my complete 388ci 360 stroker and build the 426 for myself - then I can drool too.
 
What about that hughes 426/360 kit, is it hard to fine a 360 to do the big bore on?
 
Is is hard to find a 360 block will take take a bore enough to do the 426/360 combo? thanks for help
 
Um don't forget the cost of beer you drink after you get it done, Cause you will want to stare at it : )
 
The Hughes 426/360 uses a 4.18 stroke & 4.030 bore to get the cubes. Currently listed as $2585.
 
I purchased a how to book on building a mopar small block stroker and they were talking about needing to tap into your stock block for better oiling. Is this really necessary? or is it just simply taking your 340 or 360 and building it as you would a regular rebuild but with a stroker rotating assembly?
 
'64 Cuda said:
I'm weighing my options here. I'd like an honest answer from some of you stroker smallblock guys as to what it really cost to build your engine, from oil pan clear up through the carburetion system. I'm trying to decide whether to just build the 340 I have, build some sort of stroker engine, or bite the bullet, sell the 340 block, heads, crank, etc. to offset the cost & buy my dream engine as a crate motor from Mopar performance. They have a 410 cu. in. 465 horse stroker that makes me drool.
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head machining=890
block cost =150
block machining=595
stoker kit-nodular/h beam/hypers w/bearings rings balanced int=1200
engle solid cam=145
lifters=80
springs=55
clearenced & assembled myself
Had the rest of the odds and ends from other motors.

around $3100
 
I'm trying to decide whether to just build the 340 I have, build some sort of stroker engine, or bite the bullet, sell the 340 block, heads, crank, etc. to offset the cost & buy my dream engine as a crate motor from Mopar performance.
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It sounds like the original poster is going to rebuild his motor no matter what. It seems to me question is to go stroker or not?

So is this really about how much more it costs to build a stroker vs. a stock stroke setup where you allready have the crank?

I just went through this.

The difference is roughly the cost of the stroker crank vs the cost of freshly machining your old crank. Scat 4" at Summit is $366 cast, $807 forged. I'm guessing the cost to grind a crank is $100 (that might be a dated number) Next is the difference between stroker piston cost and stock stroke piston cost. The forged Icon piston I have in my car are the same costs 4" stroke vs stock stroke.

Cost on everything else is the same on a stock stroke motor.

So the net cost of running a stroker for me was $266.

$707 cost difference if I choose to run a forged crank. I have a feeling it might have been a little less cost difference since I bought a Scat kit with everything.

I didn't have to clearance the block with my I beam rods. I've got under 500 HP so I choose a Scat cast crank kit from Brian @ IMM.
 
What's with the recent revival of 4+ year old threads? :wack:
 
crackedback said:
What's with the recent revival of 4+ year old threads? :wack:
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I guess that's what happens when a message board search feature works real well.

On other boards people complain that people are asking the same questions over and over. So here someone went to effort of search for topic. I have to commend them for that.

But IMHO, the question of a 360 block being able to used with a Hughes 426 stroker kit is really a seperate subject. And should be in a new thread.

1plydust only has 54 posts
 
dodge freak said:
I don't know. It be interesting how well those 5 year old strokers are still running today ?

Why not just build a BBM if you want over 400 CI ?
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Because they weigh more, can't run power steering, heavier reciporcating mass, fit tight...

And most of all, because someone choose to do a small block and not a BBM.
 
autoxcuda said:
I guess that's what happens when a message board search feature works real well.

On other boards people complain that people are asking the same questions over and over. So here someone went to effort of search for topic. I have to commend them for that.

But IMHO, the question of a 360 block being able to used with a Hughes 426 stroker kit is really a seperate subject. And should be in a new thread.

1plydust only has 54 posts
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Exactly...
 
Magnum 360
Scat 4" stroke crank
Scat forged I beam rods
Diamond flat top pistons (11.8:1 compression)
Total seal rings
Engine Pro main, rod and cam bearings
Fluid Damper
Cloyes double roller timing set
Cometic head gaskets
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, gasket matched and ported
Smith Bros. push rods
Comp 1.5 ratio shaft mount billet roller rockers
Competition Cams camshaft:
242/248 duration@ .050, .3660 / .3630 lift @ .050 112 degree lobe sep. 549/544 gross valve lift
Comp valve springs, retainers, keepers and locators
ARP head studs and bolts throughout
Melling high volume oil pump
Edelbrock RPM intake
Edelbrock 800 cfm carb
MSD Pro Billet distributor
Bronze distributor gear
Mopar Performance MSD 6 ignition box
Taylor wires and looms
NGK plugs
Adjustable rev limiter
Mopar Performance valve covers
TTi step headers
2 1/2" custom exhaust with Flowmaster mufflers

All parts and labor, and the labor was done at a machine shop, just over $10,000. That includes intake, carb, headers, exhaust, distributor, ignition, etc ...
 
Mopar to ya said:
Magnum 360
Scat 4" stroke crank
Scat forged I beam rods
Diamond flat top pistons (11.8:1 compression)
Total seal rings
Engine Pro main, rod and cam bearings
Fluid Damper
Cloyes double roller timing set
Cometic head gaskets
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, gasket matched and ported
Smith Bros. push rods
Comp 1.5 ratio shaft mount billet roller rockers
Competition Cams camshaft:
242/248 duration@ .050, .3660 / .3630 lift @ .050 112 degree lobe sep. 549/544 gross valve lift
Comp valve springs, retainers, keepers and locators
ARP head studs and bolts throughout
Melling high volume oil pump
Edelbrock RPM intake
Edelbrock 800 cfm carb
MSD Pro Billet distributor
Bronze distributor gear
Mopar Performance MSD 6 ignition box
Taylor wires and looms
NGK plugs
Adjustable rev limiter
Mopar Performance valve covers
TTi step headers
2 1/2" custom exhaust with Flowmaster mufflers

All parts and labor, and the labor was done at a machine shop, just over $10,000. That includes intake, carb, headers, exhaust, distributor, ignition, etc ...
Click to expand...

What Comp Cam is that? I used a XE274S Solid and I thought the XE275 and XE275HL were on 110 centerlines.

What grade gas do you have to run? I'm at 9.9:1 measured and run 91 octane california grade swill.
 
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