New to V8's. 340 or 383?

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ESP47 said:
Hey guys I've had my slant six Duster for 10 years now but I just recently bought a 67 Barracuda fastback with a 273 commando. The car came with a SBP 7 1/4" rear and 10" drum brakes. I plan on swapping the rear for at least an 8 1/4" and the fronts to discs.

I've just began researching V8's but I've always wanted a 340 ever since I was a teenager. My question is, how much can I expect to pay to get a 340 and just have it rebuilt to regular factory specs? I'm not interested in racing it so I don't need performance mods or anything. I just want a nice looking car that looks like it could be original. If I buy a 340 block for $500, how much can I expect to pay for heads and to have it rebuilt? I'm just looking at ballpark here.

Some of these Barracuda's came with 383's so I've been wondering about those as well. They almost seem cheaper than 340's. What's a ballpark number as far as buying one and having it rebuilt?

Also what are the pros and cons of a 340 vs. a 383 in this car? The 340 seems like it would just drop right in. Are there certain mods needed to drop a 383 in or would I just need different motor mounts since some cars originally came with them? I'm a total newbie when it comes to V8's so I apologize if I'm asking stupid questions.
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I was stuck between the SB/BB decision when i did my duster. IMO small block is the way to go for something you're gonna drive on the street.

On a budget you can't beat a magnum 360. But if you want to stay oem then definitely 340.
 
TheCraigMachine said:
How so? The O.P. never stated his intended purpose in this engine choice, and since the O.P. is "New to V8's" as also stated in the title of the thread itself, I happen to think that this is fairly pertinent information. Its all about the intended usage and the resourses at hand. If I had intended to FULLY hijack the thread, i never would have requested the P.M. But that is no longer relevant, as the P.M. has already been sent.

Either way, Im sure the O.P. is sitting back laughing about how his simple question got so far "off topic".
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Nothing against you at all dude.
We're all here to learn and exchange ideas on the topic at hand.
I just thought it was rude to get off topic with your combo and needs when the it wasn't relevant to the O.P.'s original question, that's all.
Party on. :goodman:
 
Okay, rumblefish360, as you mentioned, the original question was 340 vs. 383; I did get pulled in by the other comparisons--some of which you made earlier yourself, by the way. Since you made the "half a brain" comment, I will respond. Perhaps I see things differently because I don't have only half a brain. 40 years ago, I was awarded a National Merit Scholarship, which I used to obtain my mechanical engineering degree. The only reason I mention this is because National Merit Scholarship Semi-Finalists were the top 1/2 of 1 percent of all those tested. Finalists were a smaller percentage, and those fortunate enough to be selected as scholarship winners, such as myself, were an even smaller percentage. Although I cannot say definitively how many of my brain cells have deteriorated in the past 40 years, my guess is that I still have more than half a brain left. I don't want to come across as having some kind of attitude, and obviously English is not your first language, so I won't criticize that either.

Regarding your first statement, my opinion is that you have further made the case for a 340 over a 360--if you are rebuilding for higher power, you are way ahead from the start with a 340. As far as not trusting a 40 year old engine, I built my 340 in 1975, so it's not quite 40 years old yet, but I still trust it. I have also NEVER experienced any lack of low-end power.

Your second statement: "So since a rebuild is coming down the pile (sic), all advantage the 340 has (sic) is a moot point except the forged crank, in which the only advantage there is IF your (sic) racing it. Otherwise the 360 can be built with all the good points of the 340." It sounds like you are saying that if the engine is to be rebuilt anyway, it doesn't matter what you start with. Yes, you can buy good heads, etc. for the 360--it just didn't seem to me that the original poster wanted to go to that expense level. Granted, 360's are a dime a dozen, but for my money--IF you can find a decent 340 as a starting point--you are ahead of the game.
 
I would take a 340 over a 383 any day. Put these two motors in the same platform and the 340 will out perform the 383 as far as I am concerned. It comes down to horsepower and weight. The 383 does not make a lot more power but is a lot heavier.
 
For what it's worth, I would never consider a 383. If you're going big block, go big, 440 or more since you'd be buying everything from scratch anyway.

Same usually goes for small block. Unless you have an engine to build already, go 360 as the other parts are pretty much the same price as is machine work. As previously mentioned, 340 block will cost more. I happened to come across a good deal on a nearly new 318, so that's what I'm running for now. Sometimes it depends on the deals you come across at the time you're looking to do something!
 
Has anyone dyno'd a brand new bone stock 1970 3404brl against a brand new bone stock 1971 360 fitted with the same cam , induction, exhaust as the 340?
Does the 3.58 stroke really make up for the 340's 10.5 comp and 2.02 228cfm flowing heads?

I mean....since we've side tracked a lot already, why not ponder this -
 
This thread is a couple months old so not sure which way you have gone.

But you kind of answered your own question....

ESP47 said:
...
I've just began researching V8's but I've always wanted a 340 ever since I was a teenager...
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Personally I would pick any good condition 318, 340, 360 or 383 that you come across for a good price...that can be rebuilt.

Going from a /6 to V8 you need a bunch of stuff anyways for the conversion so to me big block or small block is kind a mute point.

Blowing the budget...
Looking at Big Block VS Small block weights...seems like you could level the playing field by putting aluminum heads on a 383 and that would drop 30 - 60 pounds? making it closer to the weight of a small block?

All I can say is...it's your car...go with your heart and gut feeling...and what makes you happy.

Paul
 
65cuda340, I'll respond to this after I get home from work. I'll be doing a 32 hour shift.

I just like to say I started to read your reply. Without my glasses, it is a bit long and hard to read. I'll just say this to you. I'm very sorry you have take. My post as a message to you directly. It seems that your much like the wackos how think rock and roll bands speak to them through there record albums. Your a mental case.

I noticed that you have stated your not, but yet, yes you are, pounding your chest with pride parading your degree. And it shows further with the chest beating of your engine that you have rebuilt. Well congrats to you. However, that just proved my point exactly. Why start with a 40 year old engine with unknown meage and think it will last.

Your direct insult post is of low low class and shows me your very easy to hurt.
Ease read this very carefully.

Since your so easy to insult and get your feelings hurt, know this, I have not the. Or now of ever have or will address you or your stunted brain ever because I could not give a rats **** about a me tap midget cry baby mutha ****** like yourself.
Your new name is Nancy in a pink dress with blue toe nail polish and will be so addressed as to not hurt your feelings.

Now. Go get your diaper changed and get a nice warm bottle of milk filled to the top of your nipples bottle. It's good for you and will calm you down some.

I say. Good day to you asshole. Do not reply to me on any thread since it will only "muck up" the thread and ruin the quality of the thread.

Good night Nancy.
 
Ok crew. Sorry about Nancy and I.

Lets get back to the thread at hand!

To the OE poster, my humble appolgies for the mess Nancy started with myself on your thread. And since Nancy is reading and if any body else that is wondering. So what if English is my second language or maybe it's my first. While I try a little bit to get it right. I admit the I-phone makes corrections for me and I do not check it or proof read it.

Perhaps, I should STFU because Mrs. Smarty pants (AKA Nancy) sez I ain't inteligentz enuff.
 
Dartnut said:
Nothing against you at all dude.
We're all here to learn and exchange ideas on the topic at hand.
I just thought it was rude to get off topic with your combo and needs when the it wasn't relevant to the O.P.'s original question, that's all.
Party on. :goodman:
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No offense taken my friend. Looking back on the post, I may have been just a little off topic!:eek:ops:
 
I cant resist I have read people go on about the 360 being superior to the 340 how can a truck motor be a better design than a factory high Performance mill sure put some 340 parts on it or after market and it better well so what thats apples to oranges fact 340 never went in a pickup or van and was developed like the 426 four one thing only be the best at kicking *** Chrysler could lay down>. 360 race block??what ever
 
I had no idea people were still talking about this lol. Thanks for all the replies, now lets get it back on topic...

Here's an update with my situation. I've got a deal on the line for a complete 340 standard bore minus exhaust manifolds and carb/air cleaner for market value. If everything goes as planned, I should have it in a few weeks.

If you want to know exactly what I want out of the car, here is my idea. I already have a daily driver slant six car but I'd like to have a back up driver that's a little more fun to drive once in a while. I'd like it to get decent enough mileage to not make me think twice when I want to drive it for a week, but I'd like it to put me back in the seat when I feel like mashing the pedal down now and then.

I've never driven in a stock 340 car. From what I've read, the engines made about 275hp stock, correct? I'd like to keep it as stock as possible. What kind of mileage did these things get stock? What if I wanted 300hp instead of 275hp, is this a huge chunk of change? I know it costs money to go faster but I'm not wanting to build a race car here. I just want something that's comfortable to drive and can make me feel some G's every once in a while when I want to get on the pedal for fun.

I will admit I know nothing about building an engine so if/when the time comes for me to get it rebuilt, I will be solely depending on you guys for answers on what to do. I have a lot of researching to do but I'll by no means be an expert when the time comes to get work done.

I don't know what it is but I like 340's and I don't like 360's. I'm not interested in building a 360 to look like a 340 because I don't really care if other people think I have a 340 or not. It's not about fooling anyone or trying to look cool. I've just always heard such great things about 340's and I've always wanted one. Plus it helps the resale value if one day I decide to sell the car. If I have to spend $1000 more to build a 340, then that's no problem because the car will easily appreciate $1000 by just having the motor in there whether it's numbers matching or not. I just bought the car, so selling it hasn't even crossed my mind but you never know what will happen some day.
 
Well, there's a terrific set of books that can help you greatly in rebuilding the engine by yourself. The "How to rebuild your small block MoPar" and "How to hot rod your small
Block MoPar" books show a lot. I rebuilt my first engine from the rebuild book. It worked out great. I also had the MoPar "Engines book" which you can still get.

Do you have a planned gear ratio in mind? Tire size? Ideal cruise RPM range?
 
Don't go big block unless it's at least a 440 inch motor. 383 will be more of a headache without anything performance wise over a decent small block.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Well, there's a terrific set of books that can help you greatly in rebuilding the engine by yourself. The "How to rebuild your small block MoPar" and "How to hot rod your small
Block MoPar" books show a lot. I rebuilt my first engine from the rebuild book. It worked out great. I also had the MoPar "Engines book" which you can still get.

Do you have a planned gear ratio in mind? Tire size? Ideal cruise RPM range?
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Thanks I'll have to check those out and get to reading!

I was thinking 3.23 gears to give me a little push off the line without over revving on the highway. I'm going to stick with stock 14" wheels but I'm converting from SBP to BBP so it'll depend on what width I end up with. Either way the tires are going to be fairly stock. I have no idea about the ideal cruise RPM range. That's something I'll need help with since I have no experience.
 
Hummmm, cruise RPM explained ???

Well, at what speed do you drive down the Hwy. at? 65, 70, 75 mph?
Note this on your regular car. I'll assume you will want to be able to do the same in "The Ride."

Also understand that as cams get bigger, not only will they Increase the HP of the engine,, but, it will also increase the RPM range at which the cruise in. This should work in conjunction with the gear ratio and tire size. (Also the stall speed of the converter.)

The gear ratio can limit the cam size which in turn limits power to a degree.
 
ESP47 said:
What if I wanted 300hp instead of 275hp, is this a huge chunk of change? I know it costs money to go faster but I'm not wanting to build a race car here. I just want something that's comfortable to drive and can make me feel some G's every once in a while when I want to get on the pedal for fun.

I will admit I know nothing about building an engine so if/when the time comes for me to get it rebuilt, I will be solely depending on you guys for answers on what to do. I have a lot of researching to do but I'll by no means be an expert when the time comes to get work done..
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I think a bit of cam and set of headers will get you to 300+ HP without a lot of $$ or fussing. (I've heard folks claim they were 300+ right off the show room floor..) And I know what you mean about just wanting a 340. I've had a hankering for one since I got my butt handed to me in my Nova 30 years ago by a Duster 340...took all them years to actually get one, but I never lost that desire to have one of my own. Just one of those things...
Look forward to following your build.

Pat
 
383 is about 60 pounds heaver.I am going from back in the days.If you had a A body 383 you better be on your toes trying to race one.They were some of the quickest cars in our area.My brother had a 69 dart he bought new auto with 3.91 gears and never been beat or came close to beening beat by a 340 A body E body or B body.The only cars he had trouble with was B or E bodys with 440 or hemis.I still say answer the mans question.It don't concern a 360 at all.He wants to put a 340 OR 383 in his car.Remember he is not a fan of 360 engines. Mark.
1968dartman said:
I would take a 340 over a 383 any day. Put these two motors in the same platform and the 340 will out perform the 383 as far as I am concerned. It comes down to horsepower and weight. The 383 does not make a lot more power but is a lot heavier.
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Definately get the Mopar engines "bible". I bought the one I have 25 years ago and still use it all the time. The bible will give you A lot of build ideas.
 
Rumble and Wild: you both laid down,consistent descripitions,both.If the O.P,can't make a decision,not your fault.
 
The 360 will give you more torque and more power if the pistons are swapped out to raise the compression up to where the original 340s were. The 340s have the reputation because they came with high compression, big valves, and the better exhaust manifolds. But when the two engines are set up the same the 360 will outperform the 340 every time and make more power and torque at a lower rpm to boot.

Yes being able to say you have a 340 is cool. And if that is what the OP wants and is willing to pay extra to get the 340 by all means go buy one. But it will need more cam and have to be rev'ed higher to get the same power as the longer stroke 360 would and cost more money up front to purchase. More money for less power sounds like the hot ticket to me...
 
I can tell I am getting in a battle, so here is my 2 worthless pennys. I have a sick 340 that I built. It's bad ***, however, I built a 383 that would rev over 7000 RPM. And it did not cost more than a SB build. A 383 revs almost as quick as a SB, but has BB power. Say what you want, but a 383 (Magnum, w/906 heads, steel crank, good intake and exhaust, cam) some oiling mods, will blow away a 360! :finga:I would trade my 340 for 1 now (and I have $3500 in my 340) I built it, not a shop, love it, but it ain't no 383! And I have a few 440's as well........they just don't rev like a 383!
 
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