Do you mean the rubber strap that goes around the steering column?
1965 Dodge Dart Charger
- Thread starter 65dartcharger
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Do you mean the rubber strap that goes around the steering column?
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Yes sir. It's called out as an insulator on the parts list. I have the upper bracket the also holds the master cylinder on the outside of the firewall. It's just the manual isn't so good about giving up information.
Here's a pic. What they call the insulator is circled in yellow. Just trying to figure out if that is all there is? The saddle on the bottom, the rubber band on the column and the bracket on top? The other is just one I'm trying to track down. The O ring between the mounting plates.
Thanks
Here's a pic. What they call the insulator is circled in yellow. Just trying to figure out if that is all there is? The saddle on the bottom, the rubber band on the column and the bracket on top? The other is just one I'm trying to track down. The O ring between the mounting plates.
Thanks
The insulator must be added Before the "head" of the steering columnis mounted. I learned it the hard way!!!:banghead:
You can see at the picture how the bracket on the underside is mounted.
The "O-ring" is mounted into the semi-gloss black painted plate. The plate must also be aded after the steering column is painted but before it is assembled. I bought the "O-ring"on Ebay, I think it was from Vans Auto. The gasket set is from DMT, Detroit Musclecar Technology. DO do great stuff!
Finally you see how it locks on the column after adding it.
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Thanks Ulf!! Big help!! Was hoping the insulator was two part. I guess I'm learning the hard way as well!! Do you remember where you got the insulator?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I reused the one that was on the. The reason was that it had a special pattern that I could not find. Otherwise I guess an inner tube from a bicycle would do the job. I haven't seen them repopped!
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Thanks Ulf! I appreciate the info!
I'm about to mount the rear bumper brackets to the bumper. This got me in trouble! My friend Keith )66340SEDAN) hadsome factory bumper bolts for me and they were great. Just as he told me , they are exactly what you are looking for.
There seems to be many vendors out there that can provide these bumper bolts but in my opinion they are wrong.
It seems like the early A-bodies had another head on the bumper bolt. That head is more round shaped compare to new repopped "NOS" ones that has a more flat head.
Does anyone out there know where to find the right bumper bolts with the right head?
There seems to be many vendors out there that can provide these bumper bolts but in my opinion they are wrong.
It seems like the early A-bodies had another head on the bumper bolt. That head is more round shaped compare to new repopped "NOS" ones that has a more flat head.
Does anyone out there know where to find the right bumper bolts with the right head?
Here is a Picture how the newly "NOS" bumper bolts looks like!:banghead:
Here are the listings from Auveco. It starts with this link to page 16. Update your address bar to change the page numbers. Final page is 19.
[ame]https://www.auveco.com/eSource/ecom/common/prodesc/pdf/16.pdf[/ame]
Thanks Kevin! That's the company that had the rubberized nuts for the door and fender ornaments. I will check into it!
Today I was able to mount the last thing on the parking brake system. The clamp that holds the first parking cable to the body. I guess the reason was to prevent the cable to get in contact with the wheel.
The tejp is there to prevent the undercoating from getting into the engine bay!
The front wheel bearings, were they made by Chrysler, Timken or some other manufacturer? I checked mine and they are made by Timken!
slantsixdan
=..=
Chrysler did not make their own bearings. They bought -- often from Timken, yes.
Thanks for sharing your knwledge Dan!
Today I painted the last ornament for the right front fender. It'sa killer to mask off all the areas that should't be painted. But now it'sdone and ready to be assembled.
The Dartcharger that we casted is now chromed but if the ornament Wasa killer this one's gonna be insane! But first of all I must get a paint that is thicker then ordinary paint. The reason is that the small areas will just get some small amount of paint and that will be on the outer ends on the small boxes!
slantsixdan
=..=
NICE work on the masking and painting for the fender "vent"! Can you tell us about your casting process for the Charger emblem?
Thanks Dan! Through a buddy of mine Joakim I got the contact info to a guy in central Sweden that has casted different items in bronze. So I sent him one of the best badges I had and then he did a test casting. He sent it to me and I was satisfied. After that he did 6 castings in bronze and I was very pleased with it.
Next step was to grind of some material in the checkered area before sending it to the chrome shop. And the result was excellent. The newly casted ones will go on the center caps of the Cragar rims.
The NOS emblems will go on the fenders and on the dash. THe oneson the fenders has a special round badges behind the Dartcharger badge. My friend Johan did those from aluminium and they are at the chrome shop right now. I will call them on Monday to find out the status. I would love to mount those emblems to get mostly of the front of the car done.
slantsixdan
=..=
Nifty!
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Ulf, I have this on the way, maybe you might be interested in it? I am sure it is for the Dodge Charger but with the "1965" date it might fit right in with your collection? Here are a couple teaser pics :glasses7:
Excellent job on reproducing the Charger emblems. I'll bet you'll have a market amongst every other Dart Charger owner on the planet. One suggestion that may work on painting the emblems. Since you're starting with an emblem that's fully chromed, simply mask off the center area that will have no paint and paint all of the upper and lower portions. Laying the paint on a little thick will give you what you're looking for in all of the recesses. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, you likely will be able to buff the paint off the high spots giving you exactly what you're looking for. Remember, Chrysler didn't want to spend any more to create these emblems than was absolutely necessary, so if they could find an easy way to get that detail simply by buffing rather than trying to mask, that's what they'd be doing.
Keith, that looks awesome. I know that you are a Mopar collector bigtime but I can't understand where you dig up all the fancy stuff!! I'll be sitting by the mailbox......!
Kevin! Thanks for the idea. Of cause they wanted the production to be as quick as possible. I will get it a try to see if I can come up to a great finish in the recessed areas!
The paint dept got some work tonight! I masked off the upper and lower areas of the badge and started to paint it black. That was more tricky then I thought. When you wipe off the paint on the chrome the paint from the bottom follows!!! Well, after three tries I was satisfied but I guess that it will need more paint tomorrow.
When the paint was drying I started to measure the restored trunk from my brither-in-laws Dart so I can drill allthe holes for the mouldings and letters. This will take some time!
When the paint was drying I started to measure the restored trunk from my brither-in-laws Dart so I can drill allthe holes for the mouldings and letters. This will take some time!
I think you'll have better luck with removing paint if you allow what you put on first, to dry. You'll only be buffing the high spots and the paint in the recesses should have been able to bond to the metal once it's dry.
As for the location of the holes, Might I suggest you tape a piece of paper or stiff cardstock to the back of your brother-in-law's decklid and use a pencil to mark the location of the holes from the inside of the lid. Once you've market them all, you need to simply open the holes up a bit with the cardstock removed, then place it back on the decklid to confirm your locations are correct. If they are, then you're free to move to your own decklid and start drilling. If not, repeat the process until you're happy with it.
slantsixdan
=..=
+1. This is how to do it.
Thanks guys! I will continue the paint work later and do the trunk lid right. I have almost drilled all the holes when I all of a sudden remembered that the trunk lid has the center holes covered by some kind of black tejp. It looks like a paper tejp.
Does anyone know where to get it?
Does anyone know where to get it?
My 65 Dart Gt I used to own had a really thick metal tape over those holes, not exactly sure what it was but figured I would let you know.
Thanks Rockerdude!
I will see if I still have that tejp from the old trunk. Not sure what it's made of but I know for sure it was black. A paper tejp would probably go up in smoke after a while causing rust issues in the lower trunk area.
Anyone out there that has an untouched trunk lid?
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