New daily driver

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GOOD NEWS!!!!!!!!!!

the dak passed emissions testing today and is licensed. being a 91 this is the last time it will have to go thru the smog test. full steam ahead now. going to be junk yard hunting this weekend for LA front accessories. am going to run the LA timing cover with LA water pump and V-belts. going to run an old school alternator with external voltage regulator. have been doing my home work and looks like the ECM can come out and most of the engine bay wire harness. will being running old school starter relay and voltage reg. got my intake in the mail today too.



 
Scored a set of brand new headers today for $140. They are pace setter shorty headers. Nice 3/8 flanges.
 

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so i put a mechanical gauge on the engine. good new! she has 50psi oil pressure at idle. goes to 60lbs when you rev the engine. thats good enough for me. changed the elec. sending unit and the gauge is reading correctly now.



[ame]http://vid370.photobucket.com/albums/oo147/johnnydart_photo/IMG_1254_zps27d3f621.mp4[/ame]
 
GOOD NEWS!!!!!!!!!!

the dak passed emissions testing today and is licensed. being a 91 this is the last time it will have to go thru the smog test. full steam ahead now. going to be junk yard hunting this weekend for LA front accessories. am going to run the LA timing cover with LA water pump and V-belts. going to run an old school alternator with external voltage regulator. have been doing my home work and looks like the ECM can come out and most of the engine bay wire harness. will being running old school starter relay and voltage reg. got my intake in the mail today too.




Whoa, full stop! I recall that the Dak went to a serpentine setup because the V-belt accessories would not FIT the very-crowded engine compartment!

Anyway: you WANT to keep the serpentine setup...it is vastly superior. (My 95 had its original water pump and belt-yes, the 19-year-old original serpentine belt-until January!) The Magnum water pump is much better (more flow & less cavitation), the later alternator is more powerful & probably more durable. (Any old-school alternator is 30+ years old now.)
 
Whoa, full stop! I recall that the Dak went to a serpentine setup because the V-belt accessories would not FIT the very-crowded engine compartment!

Anyway: you WANT to keep the serpentine setup...it is vastly superior. (My 95 had its original water pump and belt-yes, the 19-year-old original serpentine belt-until January!) The Magnum water pump is much better (more flow & less cavitation), the later alternator is more powerful & probably more durable. (Any old-school alternator is 30+ years old now.)

With all the emissions crap and electronic out of the way there is tons of room to play. It has the la style v8 in it now with the old cast iron water pump. I will keep the clutch fan and shroud setup in tact . Just going to be swapping to v belt pulleys. I already got a power steering pump all set up and ready with adapted hoses to work with the steering rack. I will be running an after market high output alternator as well. I plan to run an old school external voltage regulator and starter relay. Will be using factory in tank fuel pump with pressure regulator and factory return line. Will also be running msd 6al box with msd pro billet dizzy.
 
No, you're not paying attention: I do not thing there is ROOM for the old LA-style water pump! Even with the serpentine drive, clearance is very, very tight!

And again: the serpentine setup is several dozen orders of magnitude superior...think comparing an 80's Lean Burn 318 with a Hemi.
 
I thank you for the heads up! I think you may be correct. My current 318 la engine has a clutch fan setup with low profile water pump. I do think that I could still run car water pump and no spacer and 7 blade fan but I have done some homework and plan to use the stock serp. Setup with the air pump delete and move the alternator into the air pumps location with custom mounts
 
I'd have to look at my Dak to be sure, but I am about 98% certain that a 1992-96 used no AIR pump...you could just swap to Magnum accessories.

My Dak has about an inch or a little less between the fan and radiator...the V8 Daks are that tight!
 
Scored some more parts today! Got a mint tail gate for $40! Gonna be painting it before it goes on!
 

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Also got a set of 16x 8 durango wheels for $120 for all 4! Gonna run 265/60/16 all way round. They are all over for less then 120 ea
 
Also got a set of 16x 8 durango wheels for $120 for all 4! Gonna run 265/60/16 all way round. They are all over for less then 120 ea

I'd bet money those tires won't fit. My uncle's 88 had interference with 245/60R15's.
 
Something else to think about too. They make adapter to install TBI on the carb intakes...

Also, everything I'm reading says you can squeeze up to a 265/70/16. About the same height as the 235/75/15
 
Something else to think about too. They make adapter to install TBI on the carb intakes...

Also, everything I'm reading says you can squeeze up to a 265/70/16. About the same height as the 235/75/15

Thanks guys. I'm gonna get them bolted on thruck and do some measuring. Havnt bout tires yet so I will do my home work first
 
Something else to think about too. They make adapter to install TBI on the carb intakes...

Also, everything I'm reading says you can squeeze up to a 265/70/16. About the same height as the 235/75/15

But only 4x4's had 235/75's. The 2WD trucks mostly had 215/75R15's.
 
But only 4x4's had 235/75's. The 2WD trucks mostly had 215/75R15's.
my dads 2wd 95 came stock with 235's according to the door sticker

Oops! Scratch that. Your right. We put 235/70's on it for a wider tire. My bad.
 
I didnt read every thing but thay look really good lowerd but when you do that you have a tire limt on the the front . One more shot of my old one to show you .
 

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my dads 2wd 95 came stock with 235's according to the door sticker

Oops! Scratch that. Your right. We put 235/70's on it for a wider tire. My bad.

The door sticker on mine (also a 95) actually shows 195/75R15's (which I have NEVER seen on any Dak). Per the window stocker, it came with 215/75's.
 
I didnt read every thing but thay look really good lowerd but when you do that you have a tire limt on the the front . One more shot of my old one to show you .

I think I plan to leave front stock ride height and fill wheel well with tire and lower rear 2" to level it all out. I have would even go as far as narrowing rear to fit more rubber. Buddy has a jig and doc diff can re spline axels for cheap
 
did some measuring last night. the truck currently has 225/75/15 all way round. I am going to try to fit an 235/70/16 up front and 265/70/16 on the rear. the rears are gonna fit for sure with miles of room. the fronts may rub on full luck but its going to be very close. I think i may be able to pull it off. I did some measuring and it looks like if they do run its going to be on the inside of the inner fender splash gaurds. the wheel well itself should clear. the big problem with the wheels on the front is going to be the center cap. it hits by about 1/4" on the dust cap.

DONT SHOOT ME!

The plan is to take the front rotors off. im going to get out the angle grinder and very slowly with water to keep it cool cut the spindle tip back the 1/4" that will leave me about 1/8" in front of the cotter pin hole for the spindle nut retainer. then im gonna have to gently smash the the dust cap flat. i know its a bit barbaric but i have seen this work.



on another note....


I got some of the engine parts today!

anyone wanting to build a mild 5.9 mag motor is going to need these parts, got them all from hughes

valve springs part # 1110 these allow up to .550 lift with a 1.6 rocker

retainers part # 1278 these allow the added lift without crushing the valve seals

locks part # 1307b

valve stem seals part # 3806

I got new factory replacement lifters also part # 5006. i was told they are not mandatory if your check out good but it was more of a piece of mind for me.




 
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