SRT8CUDA Build

[Joe Dokes]

I think your mods to the heater tubes turned out well. They are going to be so well hidden behind the intake manifold, and short of either making new ones or knowing how to tig weld, I don't see how you could have done it any neater.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

 

[toplscuda]

Absolutely awesome. Your attention to detail helps me out so much with things I would probably overlook.

 

[Riddler]

I'm hoping to weld some fittings on the end of the coolant tubes. I really like how you did yours.

Riddler

 

[RealWing]

Absolutely awesome. Your attention to detail helps me out so much with things I would probably overlook.

Thanks. Glad I can help a little bit.

 

[RealWing]

Another shot with the coil cover in place.

 

[RealWing]

This is what I meant by - it is not very neat. I had to make sure the AC lines would also fit.

 

[wade]

subscribed

 

[HemiDenny]

I always like flipping thru the posts on this great build thread.

What amazes me most is all the fab work around your beautiful paint job....I would have gone thru at least a couple cases of masking tape by now.

gonna be one sweet ride

Denny

 

[RealWing]

I always like flipping thru the posts on this great build thread.

What amazes me most is all the fab work around your beautiful paint job....I would have gone thru at least a couple cases of masking tape by now.

gonna be one sweet ride

Denny

Makes it a LOT easier and safer with no doors/fenders/hood. I drape the quarters in blankets for any work near them.
Spend 12 years (part time) on my Superbird and had zero scratches. Hope my good fortune continues!!!
Jim

 

[RealWing]

Fabricated a pre-oiler from a propane cylinder based on some other homebuilt ones I saw on this site.
The copper tube fits right inside a 1/2" pipe nipple. I epoxied it into the nipple. It sits about 1/4" off the bottom of the tank.
The 3rd fitting on the tank is a filler port.

 

[HemiDenny]

where I come from we call that a still....course ya gotta mix a little corn mash with it.

 

[RealWing]

where I come from we call that a still....course ya gotta mix a little corn mash with it.

I didn't show the condenser and the bottling station

 

[jrlegacy23]

I didn't show the condenser and the bottling station

That would be interesting tasting, wouldn't it? Canadian maple syrup moonshine.

 

[RealWing]

Mocked up the throttle linkage today using the stock accelerator pedal and the Lokar cable to the FAST TB. Now I see that the throttle only opens part way with pedal to the floor!!! can't have that!!

If I move the cable connection to a pivot on the TB (photo 3/4), I can get full open on the butterfly. This means I have to make a new bracket for the cable end at the TB. Mumble, mumble ops:

 

[Riddler]

Can you not shorten the cable so when the pedal depresses it'll open the TB more?

Riddler

 

[4speeds4me]

It's basically a ratio issue. Travel at the pedal needs to match travel at the TB. Shortening the cable only accomplishes a shorter cable, utilizing the same ratio based on the fulcrum distance at the pedal.

 

[72BBSwinger]

Their are other options. I screwed up and cut the casing to short.

 

[RealWing]

It's basically a ratio issue. Travel at the pedal needs to match travel at the TB. Shortening the cable only accomplishes a shorter cable, utilizing the same ratio based on the fulcrum distance at the pedal.

Correct. It is a ratio issue that will be fixed shortly

 

[RealWing]

Finished modifying the bracket to hold the throttle cable and connected it to the throttle arm. I now get full throttle opening.

 

[RealWing]

Have started to install all the new wiring and also the two FAST computers. Started in the trunk and installed a safety inertia switch for the fuel pump and also the Fuel Pump relay and fuse. (The battery will be located in the trunk)

 

[RealWing]

The instructions for the XIM computer specify different settings for the dip switches inside the box. They didn't look right to me, so I checked with David Page at FAST, and sure enough they had not been set correctly at FAST!!
I've attached a couple of photos of the inside of the box. For the 6.1 L Hemi, the SW1 dip switches are all supposed to be "on", except for #7. As you can see, #1-4 switches were off instead of on. The first 4 switches are for the crank trigger signal.

 

[Joe Dokes]

Just curious, what made you pull the cover off the fast unit? If those dip switches aren't set properly I'd assume the computer wouldn't be able to read the crank trigger correctly which means a whole lot of trouble shooting headache.

Glad you found the problem. Check, double check, triple check.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

 

[RealWing]

Just curious, what made you pull the cover off the fast unit? If those dip switches aren't set properly I'd assume the computer wouldn't be able to read the crank trigger correctly which means a whole lot of trouble shooting headache.

Glad you found the problem. Check, double check, triple check.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

Hi Joe

I'm like you: "Check, Double check, triple check"!! The instructions talked about the dip switch settings, so I decided to check with FAST and David page (who is a great help - he even replied on a Sunday!!). He said that I should check to make sure.
So yes, if these first 4 switches are not set correctly, the crank trigger signals will be messed up.
Jim

 

[Rat Patrol]

That would be interesting tasting, wouldn't it? Canadian maple syrup moonshine.

Aint that called Southern Comfort? uke:uke:

 

[RealWing]

The battery cable for the XIM assembly is not long enough to reach to the battery in the trunk. (FAST states that the +12VDC and ground connections for the XFI and XIM modules must connect directly to the battery). Spliced new wiring to reach the battery.
The XFI harness is lots long to reach the trunk.