Big Block Conversion, do it again?

[roccodart440]

Good luck changing the sparkplugs... #-o

Why? with the tti full length headers the only plug that is hard to get to is number 6. i just drilled a 1.5 to 2 inch hole in the right inner fender and number six is a breeze now. i use a 5/8 spark plug socket that has the enf that you can put a 3/4 wrench on.

The NGK plugs i run in my Indy EZ heads have a 5/8 hex

You ever checked my homepage?
I've owned a 440 Dart. Getting to the plugs esp. the rear ones, with the 2-1/8" primary Hooker fenderwells was pure crap. Same as getting to some of the headerbolts. Even had the engine mounted higher than normal to get some clearance. I don't get warm and fuzzy thinking back about that claustrofobic enginebay.

I will never put a RB in a Dart again.

The picture you responded to showed pro0parts headers which can be be installed with the engine bolted in place and plug access is a breeze.

The response you got from Mopar is about TTI's and he is right, also a breeze to change plugs.

I've done 2 RB's. one with pro parts and one with TTI's. Sorry your fenderwell exits were a pain but I don't get why you'd use them in the first place.

 

[Jim Lusk]

Recently helped a friend change plugs and do a compression test on a 67 Chrysler with a 440. It is MUCH easier to do the same job in my son's Dart with a 440 (both cars have cast iron manifolds).

 

[BigBlockMopar]

...Sorry your fenderwell exits were a pain but I don't get why you'd use them in the first place.

It was a racecar with somewhat hacked inner fenders and the headers came with the car.
It's over 10 years ago I had that car running but fighting them headers is one of things that's still clear in my mind.

Most likely a new set of better sized headers would have saved a lot of headache at the time, but money wasn't really available to spend on 'refinements'.

 

[srixon4406]

I dont think it matters much if your running headers or stock manifolds there a couple plugs that can be really pita's for the most part ive found changing the plugs from under the car is probably the easiest way of doing it.
Heres a couple shots of one of my 68 B cuda's low deck.

 

[66fs]

With factory manifolds spark plugs come out easy from underneath.

 

[kelso1]

I think it depends on the power level your after, 350 hp and lower small would be easy choice, 350-450 hp you could go either way 450 hp plus I be definitely thinking big block especially in a street car.

More then horsepower level its what you intend to do with the car. My racing days are behind me and I mostly attend cruise nights now. My 354 Hemi certainly isn't high horsepower, engine builder estimates around 435 hp, so it makes plenty for what I need and no small block is going to get the looks my Dart gets. Currently on the lookout for a gen 2 Hemi, so yeah, Id go for the BB.

 

[cu440da]

Pound for pound and dollar for dollar a stroker will take most big blocks.

Not really fair comparing a built and stroked motor to a non stroked. Take the same methods used to build up your SB and apply them to a BB and there isn't a snowballs chance in hell you'd be in the running. For that matter- you have the additional upper hand with your OD trans. You get to have your steep gear, and top end too so even if you were to race a car with similar power, odds are they dont have OD and eventually you will pull away. CHEATER!

But back to the OP topic. Hell yes- do the BB. I loved my 67 Barracuda. I had a mild 440 w/ .509 cam in it and it drove and handled great with upgraded t-bars. The only thing I would do different if I was to do it again would be to add an OD trans like my brother (the CHEATER) so I could drive to farther out shows with the 4.10 gears I had.

 

[SteveDodge]

chassis headers, indy 440-1's, motor plate, spacered k frame....... Love it

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOxv7jRIgKk"]Saturday Night in October - YouTube[/ame]

 

[SteveDodge]

another...



<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/T3DzAWYKXxI?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[srixon4406]

As soon as this damn weather breaks my little turbo toad is getting a new heart and soul. Im in the process of gutting a block and trans for mock up purposes then the fun begins TRYING TO FIT EVERYTHING INDER THE HOOD

 

[67 prostreet gt]

got any engine pics?

Look at my build thread "The Phoenix"

 

[Tur8o Joe]

Its been alot of work you just cant drop 500hp on a A bodie!! if you want the car to work it needs , traction or your just wasting your efferts mini tub, 4 link coil overs, sub frame, altercation front coil overs, and lots of other stuff and that means time and $$$$.# ihopeitworks

 

[roccodart440]

Its been alot of work you just cant drop 500hp on a A bodie!! if you want the car to work it needs , traction or your just wasting your efferts mini tub, 4 link coil overs, sub frame, altercation front coil overs, and lots of other stuff and that means time and $$$$.# ihopeitworks

Very nice work Joe.

Just to clarify you don't need a mnii tub, 4 link or coil over front to work.

10.50 tires will fit under a stock abody with an offset shackle. Cars are deep into the single digits on 10.50 rubber as well as leaf springs.

That being said 12.50's are cool and make things so much easier and I mini tubbed both of my rides. Still...nothing wrong with leafs.

The coil over setups make the front end soooo much easier.

 

[66fs]

Its been alot of work you just cant drop 500hp on a A bodie!! if you want the car to work it needs , traction or your just wasting your efferts mini tub, 4 link coil overs, sub frame, altercation front coil overs, and lots of other stuff and that means time and $$$$.# ihopeitworks

People have dropped 500 hp big block drivelines in A bodies all the time, since 1968 actually. I personally would never put that much time and money to do what you are doing. 67 to 69 Barracudas have bigger wells, as do Dusters. Nothing works better than Super Stock springs and long shocks for drag racing. I like the torsion bars up front. I'll take factory brakes also. If it was mine, I'd have a Dana 60 with that much power. It looks like you do nice work. I'm sure it will work. Keep going, you are close now.

 

[roccodart440]

66fs, I didn't think of this until now but he might be shooting for a handler not a dragster. In which case the RMS rear should treat him very well.

 

[66fs]

It does look like my friend's Road Race suspension, except the springs look too light and it's missing the NASCAR cage. My friend's is not even streetable, nor was it intended to be. The RMS rear is lighter for sure, but I'm not a fan of 4 link rears on the street. That build would be way out of my price range and experience. I would normally not comment, except for the notion that this would be the only way to "use" 500 HP in an A body.

 

[Jim Lusk]

You don't need any aftermarket suspension for handling or going straight. It's been proven over and over again. I have nothing against these parts, they just aren't necessary. Two of the most impressive handling A-bodies (albeit big small blocks) are a pair of Valiant sedans. One belongs to a member here, the other is the Green Brick. Others are doing similar builds.

 

[roccodart440]

I'm actually going to the alterkation for weight savings and ease of header fitment.

My rear will be leafs.

 

[mrtires24]

I would do big block again. and I don't understand why people complain so much on the build. Its not all that hard, just not a direct bolt in. minor modifications are needed. I have not and NEVER would do fender well headers. Take no offence, but fender wells look disgusting to me.

440 4 spd 1970 duster. never owned a more fun car to drive. If anyone has questions, Here is a link to the build.. Please note, its not a show car.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33454

I think A LOT of people that say SB have never done the BB, or have never owned a BB. those that say they would rather build a stroked SB than a BB is going to be spending WAY more money to get the same respons than if they put a mildly built BB, or just a stock good runner BB. Best bang for buck is bb if your looking for quick HP IMHO, but Im not going to hear the end of this one I'm sure...

 

[roccodart440]

those that say they would rather build a stroked SB than a BB is going to be spending WAY more money to get the same respons than if they put a mildly built BB, or just a stock good runner BB. Best bang for buck is bb if your looking for quick HP IMHO, but Im not going to hear the end of this one I'm sure...

What about those who have done a BB and now want a stroked BB?

 

[68dodge]

What about those who have done a BB and now want a stroked BB?

I would like to put a stroker motor in now. My 440 has 500HP now, I want more !!!
I would really like to build a stroker motor because I see how my sons car runs with one in a 66 Charger.

 

[roccodart440]

Those are 2 pretty cars right there.

 

[Grumpys]

I've got a LOT of cars (I'm over at forbbodies only) and I'm going to start to experiment on two (my first) A bodies I'm picking up soon.

Not going to be track cars, just one of those "wow, WTF is that?" cars.

The first, and I know I'm going to get push back on this because of the torque I might get on the body and frame, is a '68 DART GT CONVERTIBLE. I've got a ton of 440's ton build here on the farm and will decode one to see if I have a '68 first off.

I've got a couple questions, and of course any tips and ideas you have would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

1) Should I just get the motor mount kit from Schumacher ALONG WITH the headers they sell for the conversion?
2) I know I have to convert front brakes to disc, but what about suspension? Where did you get your kit from or did you build it?
3) Are heavier torsion bars readily available and suggested?
4) What about rear suspension?
5) I'm sure I'm going to have to put in a A Body 8 3/4 housing correct?
6) I want to put a 727 behind it, will this clear the body tunnel?
7) WHERE DO I GET A HINGED HOOD WITH LARGE SCOOP OR THE SCOOP I'VE SEEN ON A LOT OF GTS CARS?

I'm sure this has all been asked and covered before, so if you just want to point me to some threads I can spend the time researching without bothering a lot of people. I'm a serious nut case that builds/restores 1-2 cars a year on my own for my collection.

If you're interested, you can see more here, http://www.grumpys-garage.com but I don't update with current projects like I do my Face Book page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Grump...3261937?ref=hl

Thanks!
Dave

 

[68dodge]

I've got a LOT of cars (I'm over at forbbodies only) and I'm going to start to experiment on two (my first) A bodies I'm picking up soon.

Not going to be track cars, just one of those "wow, WTF is that?" cars.

The first, and I know I'm going to get push back on this because of the torque I might get on the body and frame, is a '68 DART GT CONVERTIBLE. I've got a ton of 440's ton build here on the farm and will decode one to see if I have a '68 first off.

I've got a couple questions, and of course any tips and ideas you have would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

1) Should I just get the motor mount kit from Schumacher ALONG WITH the headers they sell for the conversion?
2) I know I have to convert front brakes to disc, but what about suspension? Where did you get your kit from or did you build it?
3) Are heavier torsion bars readily available and suggested?
4) What about rear suspension?
5) I'm sure I'm going to have to put in a A Body 8 3/4 housing correct?
6) I want to put a 727 behind it, will this clear the body tunnel?
7) WHERE DO I GET A HINGED HOOD WITH LARGE SCOOP OR THE SCOOP I'VE SEEN ON A LOT OF GTS CARS?

I'm sure this has all been asked and covered before, so if you just want to point me to some threads I can spend the time researching without bothering a lot of people. I'm a serious nut case that builds/restores 1-2 cars a year on my own for my collection.

If you're interested, you can see more here, http://www.grumpys-garage.com but I don't update with current projects like I do my Face Book page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Grump...3261937?ref=hl

Thanks!
Dave

First of all, the project will be up to you on what you want to up grade. The motor is were you will start. I went with the Schumacher kit and there headers. Was a great kit to use with some trimming on the drivers side K-frame mount.
Now for the brakes, if you plan on just a stock motor, your brakes and suspension will be ok for now. If you are building a higher HP motor, I would up grade to front disc brakes and an 8 3/4 or even just an 8 1/4 depending on your horse power.
You plan on running it on the street, I would go with a stronger torsion bar and stiffen the rear leafs a little. Now if you decide to start drag racing, you are getting in to a different suspension set up. The 727 will clear ok. You will need to have a driveshaft made.
This is just my opinion on what I would do. everyone is different.

 

[Jim Lusk]

I've got a LOT of cars (I'm over at forbbodies only) and I'm going to start to experiment on two (my first) A bodies I'm picking up soon.

Not going to be track cars, just one of those "wow, WTF is that?" cars.

The first, and I know I'm going to get push back on this because of the torque I might get on the body and frame, is a '68 DART GT CONVERTIBLE. I've got a ton of 440's ton build here on the farm and will decode one to see if I have a '68 first off.

I've got a couple questions, and of course any tips and ideas you have would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

1) Should I just get the motor mount kit from Schumacher ALONG WITH the headers they sell for the conversion?
2) I know I have to convert front brakes to disc, but what about suspension? Where did you get your kit from or did you build it?
3) Are heavier torsion bars readily available and suggested?
4) What about rear suspension?
5) I'm sure I'm going to have to put in a A Body 8 3/4 housing correct?
6) I want to put a 727 behind it, will this clear the body tunnel?
7) WHERE DO I GET A HINGED HOOD WITH LARGE SCOOP OR THE SCOOP I'VE SEEN ON A LOT OF GTS CARS?

I'm sure this has all been asked and covered before, so if you just want to point me to some threads I can spend the time researching without bothering a lot of people. I'm a serious nut case that builds/restores 1-2 cars a year on my own for my collection.

If you're interested, you can see more here, http://www.grumpys-garage.com but I don't update with current projects like I do my Face Book page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Grump...3261937?ref=hl

Thanks!
Dave

My son's 67 GT convertible has a 440/4sp/3.23SG drive train. Subframe connectors, factory big block torsion bars and sway bar, rear springs have some helper coil-overs. Discs are late A-body and the rear drums are 11x3 C-body drums. The less traction you have, the better the body will be for it...

I build copies of the old Direct Connection K-members, so that is the way the motor is mounted.

I've also got the same torsion bars and sway bar set aside for my 67 Barracuda convertible that will get a 440/727/3.55SG drive train.