Absolutely summed it up on one sentence. Still though, a hot rodded slant has tons of cool points.
RustyRatRod's Guide To Hot Rod Bliss
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
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Absolutely summed it up on one sentence. Still though, a hot rodded slant has tons of cool points.
A friend built this old 42 Plymouth. Slant 6, od 833, and a 4:10 8 3/4. It is suprisingly quiet, quick and gets 26+ on the highway. Hot rodding at it's best!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Rusty,
How about V8 balancers. I pulled the stock one off my 318. When dissassembling the front of the engine. The rubber isolator has some fine cracks in it. Not sure if its ok, or if im going to deal with outer ring slippage. What would be your recommendation on a balancer? I have seen many different fluid filled ones on evilbay, and some stock type. The engine is a 74 318 out of a granny dart with a tick over 90k on the odo. Engine has never been apart.
Thanks
Matt
How about V8 balancers. I pulled the stock one off my 318. When dissassembling the front of the engine. The rubber isolator has some fine cracks in it. Not sure if its ok, or if im going to deal with outer ring slippage. What would be your recommendation on a balancer? I have seen many different fluid filled ones on evilbay, and some stock type. The engine is a 74 318 out of a granny dart with a tick over 90k on the odo. Engine has never been apart.
Thanks
Matt
Pioneer actually sells some decent stock replacement balancers. For these type budget builds, that's all I recommend. Summit sells them.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Rusty,
You were also talking about this custom cam grinder in oregon. I was curious since the buildup we are discussing mentions stock type parts, why a DC 340 purple cam wasnt mentioned to use in the hypothetical 318 we are talking about.
I also have a set of 1968 340 hi po exhaust manifolds i plan on using. I know headers prob flow more, but the manifolds go with the appear stock look i am going for.
Can i correctly assume the point of using the headers is that these manifolds can be expensive, and hard to find.
Matt
You were also talking about this custom cam grinder in oregon. I was curious since the buildup we are discussing mentions stock type parts, why a DC 340 purple cam wasnt mentioned to use in the hypothetical 318 we are talking about.
I also have a set of 1968 340 hi po exhaust manifolds i plan on using. I know headers prob flow more, but the manifolds go with the appear stock look i am going for.
Can i correctly assume the point of using the headers is that these manifolds can be expensive, and hard to find.
Matt
Cause it's a little big. Plus the first recipe is for a 5.2 Magnum which has roller lifters. The 318 flat tappet motor would need 2.02 valves and would benefit greatly from bowl porting using the 340 cam. While the 340 cam is very mild, it is pretty stout in a 318 at this power level. JMO.
The biggest reason yet again is budget. The 340 cam is way expensive. ........plus I am not sure anybody stocks it right now.
The biggest reason yet again is budget. The 340 cam is way expensive. ........plus I am not sure anybody stocks it right now.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I can get a 68 340 HP stock grind cam made by sealed power thru rockauto. Would you mind checking the specs shown on their website. Tell me whatcha think
The CS644 is not the 4 speed cam. That's the later grind they all superseded to. That would not be a bad choice though. At all.
moparmat2000,
Not to steal Robs... 'thunder',
The 'high pressure' or 'high volume' oil system debate has more protagonists & antagonists
than a room full of lead Guitar players trying to interpret a Hendrix riff.
Back on topic,
All bearing packages ( tri metal ) are NOT created equal.
Buy at least 3 sets ($ 60 ) and set up the bottom end to min clearance using the
'best of the bunch'---
...with the OE oil pump ...
Ok Professor, Now give us all the common sense 383 build.
This is a damn good idea,Norm. Haven't done it it,in years. Never really saw a reason to run a H/V pump, unless big bearing /crank /side clearances.... Trust me, RRR has a good 383 recipe on the books.Such an underrated mill.....
I would start with a huge cigar....unlit of course.
Lots, of great advise in this thread.....nice job RRR
often I watch as mega $$$$ is spent on the latest and greatest....but then the project never gets even close to completed (and enjoyed) because the money has run out. The result is , out of money...out of ambition.
what is most admirable about this site is the encouragement given by our members.
x2 !!!!
I like the 383 engine as a base to start with. Better compression and no real draw backs from the heads with smaller valves, which will make a RB's performance suffer. While a host of aluminum parts lighten up the engine very nicely, it is a bit pricey to do. One part at a time over time make it easier.
The best thing about the 383 is a few simple parts and it can be a good motivating power plant. Once you can get the cam, converter & rear gear combo sorted out to compliment each other for a well rounded package, it'll be sweet. Probably not setting a house on fire, but, a well motivated car should result. Your carb doesn't even have to be big. As long as you didn't go crazy somewhere, a used 600 AFB or Holley 1850 will do very well on a 383 or 400.
Hunt your classifieds!
I am about ready to start messing around with the 400 Duster. The low compression is the biggest hurtful point of the B block mill.
So far, I have installed the '78, 400/727 in the '71 with the Schumaucher swap mounts.
My good luck with parts and what I added on is;
Cheap open air cleaner on top of a $100 electric choke TQ.
A friend gave me a B engine Holley Street Dominator.
(Sweeeeet! But not any better than stock on a stock engine.)
Used B body headers. Check BBD.com for instructions.
Used Hooker Aero chamber mufflers @ 2-1/2 ending at the axle.
Used Chrome box
I sprung for some weight lightening parts which could be skipped for cheapness. Aluminum water pump and housing.
I also purchased a Summit aluminum radiator since the car did not have one. This you may very well want to do since the /6 radiator will not be up to par for cooling.
I'll grab a cam, lifter and spring kit later.
The big draw back to a big block in a A body that was a sixer is probably your suspension. And that depends on how you drive it. The Duster I have has no sway bars. 4 wheel manual drums @ 9 inch. Caution is the word of the day here folks.
The other thing is the 7-1/4 rear. You will probably want to upgrade that to a cost effective 8-1/4 at the min. I was lucky enough to score a reasonably priced 8-3/4 with 10 inch drums complete. Another friend gave me his rear rims and tires as thanks for helping him on his 383 build. (275/60/15's) used S/S springs give rise to the rear with cheap Comp Enginneering shocks on all 4 corners. After a few bucks to shorten the driveshaft and a cheap B&M shifter, the basic job was completed.
The car should be inspected by weeks end. (I hope!)
And at the track soon. (Again, I hope!)
With a camshaft change there after. (Still hoping.....)
The engine mods are one thing, the rest is another story when totaled.
The best thing about the 383 is a few simple parts and it can be a good motivating power plant. Once you can get the cam, converter & rear gear combo sorted out to compliment each other for a well rounded package, it'll be sweet. Probably not setting a house on fire, but, a well motivated car should result. Your carb doesn't even have to be big. As long as you didn't go crazy somewhere, a used 600 AFB or Holley 1850 will do very well on a 383 or 400.
Hunt your classifieds!
I am about ready to start messing around with the 400 Duster. The low compression is the biggest hurtful point of the B block mill.
So far, I have installed the '78, 400/727 in the '71 with the Schumaucher swap mounts.
My good luck with parts and what I added on is;
Cheap open air cleaner on top of a $100 electric choke TQ.
A friend gave me a B engine Holley Street Dominator.
(Sweeeeet! But not any better than stock on a stock engine.)
Used B body headers. Check BBD.com for instructions.
Used Hooker Aero chamber mufflers @ 2-1/2 ending at the axle.
Used Chrome box
I sprung for some weight lightening parts which could be skipped for cheapness. Aluminum water pump and housing.
I also purchased a Summit aluminum radiator since the car did not have one. This you may very well want to do since the /6 radiator will not be up to par for cooling.
I'll grab a cam, lifter and spring kit later.
The big draw back to a big block in a A body that was a sixer is probably your suspension. And that depends on how you drive it. The Duster I have has no sway bars. 4 wheel manual drums @ 9 inch. Caution is the word of the day here folks.
The other thing is the 7-1/4 rear. You will probably want to upgrade that to a cost effective 8-1/4 at the min. I was lucky enough to score a reasonably priced 8-3/4 with 10 inch drums complete. Another friend gave me his rear rims and tires as thanks for helping him on his 383 build. (275/60/15's) used S/S springs give rise to the rear with cheap Comp Enginneering shocks on all 4 corners. After a few bucks to shorten the driveshaft and a cheap B&M shifter, the basic job was completed.
The car should be inspected by weeks end. (I hope!)
And at the track soon. (Again, I hope!)
With a camshaft change there after. (Still hoping.....)
The engine mods are one thing, the rest is another story when totaled.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Cheap oiling mod.
On small block mopars the lifter sets for #5 and #7 cylinders are at the very end of the oiling system.
I have found you can tap into the oil gallery between #2, and #4 lifter sets on the R/H side of the engine, and tap into the oil gallery between #5 and #7 lifter sets on the drivers side, and attach a copper and brass crossover tube. Connecting the fwd RH bank with the aft LH bank. The pieces for this are easily attainable at home depot or lowes. 90° right angle brass fittings that are tapered pipe thread at one end, and compression fitting at the other end. Use copper line and compression fittings. Dont run the copper line straight fitting to fitting, but a slight bend in it for heat expansion and contraction.
Also remove the oil gallery closeout plug thats where the distributor gear is aft of the #7 set of lifters, and drill a small hole in the center of the plug i use #50 machinest drill. Then reinstall the plug. This allows high pressure oil to spray on the distributor drive gear and on the distributor shaft aiding in lubrication
The first mod allows all the lifters to get equal oil pressure, a plus running a hydraulic cam. Obviously this drilling and tapping is best done when the engine is apart for a rebuild.
On small block mopars the lifter sets for #5 and #7 cylinders are at the very end of the oiling system.
I have found you can tap into the oil gallery between #2, and #4 lifter sets on the R/H side of the engine, and tap into the oil gallery between #5 and #7 lifter sets on the drivers side, and attach a copper and brass crossover tube. Connecting the fwd RH bank with the aft LH bank. The pieces for this are easily attainable at home depot or lowes. 90° right angle brass fittings that are tapered pipe thread at one end, and compression fitting at the other end. Use copper line and compression fittings. Dont run the copper line straight fitting to fitting, but a slight bend in it for heat expansion and contraction.
Also remove the oil gallery closeout plug thats where the distributor gear is aft of the #7 set of lifters, and drill a small hole in the center of the plug i use #50 machinest drill. Then reinstall the plug. This allows high pressure oil to spray on the distributor drive gear and on the distributor shaft aiding in lubrication
The first mod allows all the lifters to get equal oil pressure, a plus running a hydraulic cam. Obviously this drilling and tapping is best done when the engine is apart for a rebuild.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
How about rounding off the leading edges of the crank counterbalance weights, and knife edging the trailing edges of those same counterweights? This helps prevent windage. Obviously this will mean you will prob have to have your machine shop balance the crank.
The balance weight grinding and shaping you can prob do at home if you have nothing but time, saving you some coin. How much can you gain HP wise, and is it worth the $$$ and time effort spent.
The balance weight grinding and shaping you can prob do at home if you have nothing but time, saving you some coin. How much can you gain HP wise, and is it worth the $$$ and time effort spent.
Waste of time except for full blown race engines.
Your oiling mod explanation is a bit short missing a few things best described here--> http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=103623
Airplanin the crank is for pretty high RPM use. I don't think we'll see any benefit at this level......like rumblefish said.
I don't think I would worry about it.
And, IMO no oiling mods are necessary here. We are keeping these engines in the 5500-6K RPM range.......and not for very long. Street blasts are usually short. Of course, if you know how to do them and have the tool, by all means go ahead. If you upgrade the power level later, that's less to do.
I don't think I would worry about it.
And, IMO no oiling mods are necessary here. We are keeping these engines in the 5500-6K RPM range.......and not for very long. Street blasts are usually short. Of course, if you know how to do them and have the tool, by all means go ahead. If you upgrade the power level later, that's less to do.
I absolutely love the 383. If I ever build one, It will be 100% for the street. I will blueprint a stone stock 383 HP engine. Period. Over and done. Why mess with a perfect thing?
A Dart with a blueprinted 383, 4 speed and 3.91 gears. Talk about loads of fun. And you can drive it every. single. day.
I can't...
I have no experience with the 'B' or 'RB' platforms. I am a throwback as it were,
Screaming RPM Small Block Mopar powerplants were My 'forte'.
That being said, the V/8 90 DEG ROD JOURNAL I.C.E --- regardless of MFGR or Displacement
is the same same--- study, study, study, make mistakes & correct
BASICS on a budget--- More importantly, seek out proven factory parts, Do Not let ego get it
the way of reality, leave $ and time for upgrades, ---
Me thinks the singular MOST IMPORTANT perspective is PATIENCE !!!
Gearheads after all can never leave well enough alone.
---Me, Professor ,??? bullpucky, just an 'Ol wrench, but thx for the compliment MOPARMITCH.
Frankie
Member #9641
Now you're talking!
As a basic recipe for hot rodding, a big block in an A body is as simple and as true as it gets. Though a little costly to do, it would be worth it in a lot of respects to go that route. Big engine/little (& light) car. It is a bit more involved to get done but not terribly so that it becomes a huge pain in the backside to complete.
The nice thing about most 383's is it has good power right from the factory, (Hp & TQ) as is and if not, upgrading the power to the stock HP outputs is an easy to do thing. Sprinkling the engine with aftermarket parts adds a few more HP. Once the wallet has the power to get headers, intake and possibly a bigger &/or better carb, it will find easy HP without ill effects.
OE HP engines @ 330 HP gain well with bolt on parts. I don't see any problems getting to 400 Hp with the basic bolt on's and a very mild upgraded over stock cam that could still use the OE torque converter.
The next two keys to it all are handling and braking to complete the whole car package.
Street machines/fighters look towards reduced weight as a final component. Which doesn't hurt any car for performance. Just how far you go is a path you choose.
The nice thing about most 383's is it has good power right from the factory, (Hp & TQ) as is and if not, upgrading the power to the stock HP outputs is an easy to do thing. Sprinkling the engine with aftermarket parts adds a few more HP. Once the wallet has the power to get headers, intake and possibly a bigger &/or better carb, it will find easy HP without ill effects.
OE HP engines @ 330 HP gain well with bolt on parts. I don't see any problems getting to 400 Hp with the basic bolt on's and a very mild upgraded over stock cam that could still use the OE torque converter.
The next two keys to it all are handling and braking to complete the whole car package.
Street machines/fighters look towards reduced weight as a final component. Which doesn't hurt any car for performance. Just how far you go is a path you choose.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Thanks rusty,
I looked into the chain tensioner from cloyes and the roller chain setup you posted from summit. Both good deals. I got em in my shopping cart, waiting for my credit card statement to close for the month, then im gonna order em along with a few more goodies i want.
Matt
I looked into the chain tensioner from cloyes and the roller chain setup you posted from summit. Both good deals. I got em in my shopping cart, waiting for my credit card statement to close for the month, then im gonna order em along with a few more goodies i want.
Matt
I want to build a "stock hybrid 383". Take a 68 bottom end using the positive deck height stock pistons. Blueprint the block to the stock deck height. Get a pair of the 67 440 HP 915 casting heads and use the .043" Fel Pro blue head gaskets. End up with right around .030" quench.
Just build it stone stock from there. Road Runner cam and all. Degree the cam in. Maybe do some mild bowl porting. Edelbrock Performer 383 and a good Thermoquad with some headers. I bet that would scream.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
I think the enemy here is "Ego"....I know for SURE I'm my own worst enemy when it comes to hi-perf parts. I get drawn in by the hype even though I know better..."gotta have that cam, those pistons, that manifold..." for what? I don't even race. What I need is probably what the factory built 40 years ago, and it will start every time.
Thanks for the wake-up call, guys!
Thanks for the wake-up call, guys!
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