66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

-
360DartGT66 said:
I'm pretty confident I have 'feed grade' molasses. Like I said, I'll try it again, be a little more careful when diluting it, maybe go 1:8 in stead, and keep it a little warmer.

Just to be clear: I am in no way questioning you or your results, Matt, I just want to know what I'm doing wrong.
Click to expand...
No offence taken. I dont know what went wrong either. I used the feed grade thick assed molasses and water. Nine parts water to one part molasses. After 2 weeks there should have been foam on top, and those parts would have been super clean.

Maybe you cut it a little thin, or its too cold for it to work. I know this, if your wife and kids noses work well, putting that in your garage will be epic. It will stink up your whole house. LOL
 
moparmat2000 said:
NI know this, if your wife and kids noses work well, putting that in your garage will be epic. It will stink up your whole house. LOL
Click to expand...
Ha ha, ok, I'll try that. :)

There sure was no foam so the process must have not started properly.

Say, maybe the lid is a problem? Do you usually have the vat open?
 
Dang it Anders. I'm supposed to be getting notices when there's activity on your thread. I just saw that I'd missed the last several posts. Must be another glitch in the new system.
 
It's easy enough to miss.

It is a relief to finally get an explanation for your absence, though. It's been keeping me up at night.
 
360DartGT66 said:
Ha ha, ok, I'll try that. :)

There sure was no foam so the process must have not started properly.

Say, maybe the lid is a problem? Do you usually have the vat open?
Click to expand...

I keep a lid on the vat so the mixture doesnt evaporate. Not sure if thats the answer.
 
I got another box of goodies from the States yesterday. Thanks, Ray! And thanks for the FABO sticker!

Here's what's in it:
- Brake booster check valve (new)
- Master cylinder rebuild kit (supposedly NOS, eBay)
- Upper (UCA) bump stops (Summit, I believe)
- Caliper bolts that @hemidart67 had manufactured (two kits, I'm planning on flipping one set)
- Bushings for my trunk lid hinges. The holes are VERY oval and there are deep groves in the pins. A bushing should do the trick! Ray got those locally. Big kudos!
- Summit brand throttle cable
- Summit brand kick-down cable
- 7/16-20 bolts from McMaster-Carr that I'll try making sleeves for to act as caliper bolts. I ordered these before I realized I could get finished ones. Still going to try some day.
- A reamer and bushing kit for the main throttle shaft of the AVS I got from a buddy over here (actually already done, see below). (carb junky's)
- A carb re-build kit plus a choke pull-off for said AVS (carb junky's)
- Bypass hose fitting for my LD340 (McMaster-Carr)
- And the complete innards of @jaws's junked AVS that he sent to Ray for disassembly.

2016-10-25 10.43.17.jpg
 
Here's me reaming up the holes for the main throttle shaft on the AVS. It works great to mount the reamer backwards in the drill. That way the shaft works as a guide to keep the hole straight.

2016-10-26 14.14.50.jpg


 
Then I did this! I watched a crazy video a while back where a guy (Ichiban Moto on YT) made a vibratory cleaner. I decided to try it since I have a cheap barely functioning orbital sander.

Here it is. I just chucked all the dirty AVS parts from Ray in the bucket along with some blasting soda and let it run for an hour and a half.

2016-10-26 15.02.37.jpg
2016-10-26 15.02.29.jpg
2016-10-26 15.05.27.jpg


Here are the results after roughly 1,5 hours.

2016-10-26 16.24.13.jpg
2016-10-26 16.25.09.jpg
2016-10-26 16.27.11.jpg


I re-loaded it and added a few more dirty parts so I get some better before and after pics.

2016-10-26 16.29.14.jpg
2016-10-26 16.32.14.jpg
 
Last edited:
mopowers said:
Did you clamp the sander in a vise, or hang it by the bucket?
Click to expand...
I just let it hang like that in a hook from the ceiling.

After a while I had to add more soda and again after an hour, it didn't leak out, just got packed. It eventually packed itself so hard that it stopped shaking around. That's when I sifted the parts out and put them back in. Re-used the soda and again didn't have to add as much as I took out.
 
Holy crap! This is the final result. Total time roughly three hours. Except the parts I added later which got 1-1.5 hours.

The first five pics are before rinsing with water and air blast drying.

2016-10-26 20.12.51.jpg
2016-10-26 20.13.54.jpg
2016-10-26 20.14.25.jpg
2016-10-26 20.15.01.jpg
2016-10-26 20.15.17.jpg
2016-10-26 20.33.35.jpg
2016-10-26 20.33.48.jpg


2016-10-26 20.33.57.jpg


2016-10-26 20.34.06.jpg
 
MOPARMITCH said:
Good Stuff there Anders....Can you do Holley for Me ? :poke:
Click to expand...
Sure can! Send it over!

But seriously, it's the simplest setup! Figure out a way to affix the base of your orbital sander to the bottom of a container with a lid, put in parts, add abrasive, run.

The guy in the video used kitty litter (yes) which seems to remove rust also. This blasting soda leaves the coating on the parts which is good.

I'm considering using a bigger container and my good sander and try to run the carb base. It's pretty clean but there are spots I can't get at.
 
FYI when I do the ultrasonic I just take the screws off the pad and mount them through the container that holds the parts.
 
Well, I decided to step up my game. My trusty German Quality AEG sander is twice the frequency - 22,000 RPM - twice tha amplitude - 2.2 mm - and 200W as opposed to the B&D one at 55W. Violent as heck! The lid wouldn't seal, though, so it's back to the drawing board.

2016-10-27 14.00.11.jpg
 
360DartGT66 said:
Nah, I want to be able to remove the lid easily. I did add some sealing strip for windows (on buildings) but some soda crept out in the corners anyway.

I'm off to buy a better container.
Click to expand...
surely the wife has some better containers that would seal well in the kitchen cabinets... :poke::lol:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top