mopowers
Well-Known Member
What's your engines idle speed?
800 in gear
What's your engines idle speed?
800 in gear!?
Q1)What cam are you running then? That's a lotta Rs for a typical 270 ish cam. No matter, it's not too slow.
Q2)How about the TC; what kindof stall?
Q3)How hard is the tranny pulling at 800?
Your crank pulley should be larger than the water pump / fan pulley. If it's not that could be some of Your problem. -- A lot of little things can add up to create a cooling problem. -- Many of the items have been mentioned.
-- I got Mine from March Performance. -- March Performance - V-Belt Pulleys - Pulleys - Chrysler Small Block 318-340-360 - Chrysler-- I was thinking about this today. If I bring the revs up to 1200 or so, I can watch the temp come down very quickly. I bet a smaller puller would do the trick. I haven't measured them, but I will next time I mess with it. Where can I get a smaller diameter pulley? --
Well my cam is very similar, but I have a stick, so I idle mine down some.You're Ok there.And it looks like you have the rest sorted. So then it might be a good idea to speed up the pump.But I would do some of the other things first.I slowed mine down some and it still cools A-ok.1) I'm still tinkering with the tune. Right now, it idles at 800 in N and drops to 750 in gear. The cam is a single pattern [email protected]", .560" 108ICL in at 104.
2) It's a 9.5" Dynamic converter. It stalls around 3500
3) Not much (if at all).
I was thinking about this today. If I bring the revs up to 1200 or so, I can watch the temp come down very quickly. I bet a smaller puller would do the trick. I haven't measured them, but I will next time I mess with it. Where can I get a smaller diameter pulley?
Get your car up to the temp where you think it's hot at idle. Take a rolled up newspaper or magazine and see how easy it is to stop your fan.
-- Belt slipping ? -- I guess it would squeal.-- What would be the point of this? If the clutch is operating correctly, won't this mess up the fan? --
What would be the point of this? If the clutch is operating correctly, won't this mess up the fan?
This is a very bad idea.Get your car up to the temp where you think it's hot at idle. Take a rolled up newspaper or magazine and see how easy it is to stop your fan.
No the steel fan will be fine. The point is to see how much the clutch is slipping, and it is a whole bunch kinder than to stick your fingers in there. I'm not a fan of that idea, but the point is made. I have tried other less violent methods, with non-thermostatic viscous couplings.You said yours was a thermostatic, so the little spring on the front has to be connected at both ends and then it has to get up to it's set point, and then it has to rotate the little valve to go from a viscous coupling to a direct drive. And Whoosh. roar, it comes to life. The roar is a sure sign that air is moving.What would be the point of this? If the clutch is operating correctly, won't this mess up the fan?
No it's not.This is a very bad idea.
No. You are not going to hold it stopped all day long. It's a fluid clutch. If it stops easy, you know it's bad.
His cooling is fine once he gets moving, from what I understand. Building heat at idle is almost always a lack of airflow through the radiator.
No the steel fan will be fine. The point is to see how much the clutch is slipping, and it is a whole bunch kinder than to stick your fingers in there. I'm not a fan of that idea, but the point is made. I have tried other less violent methods, with non-thermostatic viscous couplings.You said yours was a thermostatic, so the little spring on the front has to be connected at both ends and then it has to get up to it's set point, and then it has to rotate the little valve to go from a viscous coupling to a direct drive. And Whoosh. roar, it comes to life. The roar is a sure sign that air is moving.
Another method to see how much air is moving thru the rad is simply to hang a piece of paper in front of the rad, and "measure" how hard the paper is being "sucked" onto the rad. This does not tell anything usefull if you have a condenser mounted in front.
I know someone mentioned this but I don't know if you responded. Do you have a seal between your hood and cowl? My car would act like yours. I have a fiberglass hood with no seal on it. I tried everything to cool my car. Aluminum rad, Brassworks water pump, transmission/oil cooler combo (transmission doesn't go through the rad), steel 7 blade fan with shroud and electric pusher fan. It would run 180 while driving but get into any traffic and it was instantly 200 to 230. I was troubleshooting this problem one day and thought that I had solved the problem. The car was idling in my driveway and the temperature was staying at about 170 degrees. Estatic that I thought I had solved the problem I put my hood back on, left the car running and went upstairs to clean up before I took the car for a test drive. When I came back down it was now running at 230 degrees. I was thinking what the heck is going on? I found that if I blocked the area under the lip of the hood with cardboard the cooling was a lot better. It seems that what happens is hot air is forced out from underneath the hood and then gets sucked back into the radiator where it gets warmed up. It again gets pushed back through from under the hood and then back through the radiator to be warmed up even further. You can see how this is going to work. Try putting a few rags between the car in the hood if you don't have a hood seal (I used air-conditioning foam rbber seal from Home Depot) This will at least allow you to test this Theory out in your driveway. Good luck
I would check this by spinning the fan blade while the car is cold, and then again while the car is hot, you should feel a measurable difference.
Me I would try the fan blade without the fan clutch and if it works will, I would invest in a “world-class” fan clutch then.....
Under steady state conditions you shouldn't be seeing the water temp going up and down.The stat just does not work that fast! What I would do is grab an old stat and cut everything off it so that you are left with just the restrictor. Install that and roadtest it.
It could be that your heater hoses are backwards