Engine planning 101

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Looks great! build it! do it! make it happen! I'll cheer ya the whole way...:thumbsup:
Thanks bud I am waiting to hear back from the machinist I called last week I didnt call anymore because I didnt want to bother him during the holiday week I will call back on Monday. So nothing is official yet. But this is the plan.
 
My $.02, and worth exactly what you're paying for it...

The answer is what j par said in post #2. Figure out what you want the car to do, then stick with your plan. When you have the goal firmly in mind, work backwards from there for which parts you want. Some choices will affect other choices, much like photography. You can't change one part of taking a photo without changing the rest of the parts. For me, I wanted a certain look stance-wise, so I started with wheel/tire sizes and reverse-engineered it from there.

I've been accumulating parts for about a year and a half for my build, and I'm just about ready to turn wrenches to make it happen. I can't tell you how many times I saw something appealing/interesting (SQUIRREL!) to tear off in another direction. Luckily, I've not actually gone down any side roads. But it's hard to resist the urge. This is a slant build, beefed up to be a fun driver but it won't scare any V8 in the neighborhood. I wanted spunky performance, good mileage (via an 833 OD tranny), running well on pump gas, and having the right "look" for wheels and tires. I have all these in hand, and by all accounts will wind up with exactly what I wanted.

So why do I still slobber over the BB 69 Darts I see?? :eek::eek::eek: It's a disease, but right now I can't afford more than one project.
I love it!! I considered taking mine back to a slant six but I never found one locally and I had this extra 318 laying around and I thought it would be an easy regasket and drop in type deal but I didnt follow the plan and it got all jacked up along the way Haha. The pitted bores are completely my fault tho. Oh well I got all winter to get the engine done before spring there isn't much else I can get done to the car without the engine. I need to paint the engine bay but it's too cold for painting now.
 
Thanks bud I am waiting to hear back from the machinist I called last week I didnt call anymore because I didnt want to bother him during the holiday week I will call back on Monday. So nothing is official yet. But this is the plan.
Why are you calling your machinist? Is he working on your engine already?
 
No I called him to check prices on cleaning and boring the block.
This takes us back to post #4. A phone call is not how you do this. Machinists are a fickle bunch and good ones have no time for idle talk. They see AND hear posers every day. If you are serious, go talk to them with your block and plan in hand.
 
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This takes us back to post #4. A phone call is not how you do this. Machinists are a fickle bunch and good ones have no time for idle talk. They see AND hear posers every day. If your serious, go talk to them with your block and plan in hand.
That's fine and all but I'm not gonna just hand my block over to someone without some sorta price in mind.
 
That's fine and all but I'm not gonna just hand my block over to someone without some sorta price in mind.
You can only have that if you know what you're doing to begin with.
You can only have peace of mind with a shop if you know how things are done to begin with... with that you'll know whether or not it's done right too.

Most of you 318 guys would be fine with 9.5 compression, a 340 cam, give or take 1.6 rockers ...and some good heads, headers, 700 carb and dual plane. 300 hp with a small cam using 318 heads on the average Joe's 318 needs airflow in the 190-200cfm. Better know what your porting is yielding...
 
Ok guys lm starting from the beginning with a clean slate. When you are planning a engine build what order of operation do you go in? I have a couple theories in mind but I want your advice and opinions. So I'm gonna start with the obvious the intended purpose of the car so let me start there.
The engine is gonna be used as a street car pump gas I want something that will be a reliable street car not over heat in traffic but still powerful enough to hang with the cool kids. Lol this is not intended to be a combo thread but just the order of operation in planning a build. I have an idea of what I'm gonna do but I'm not gonna share that quite yet. Thanks for your help and Happy Thanksgiving!

Happy Thanksgiving day to you and your family.

Let me start with a look through here;
Mopar Racers Forum
Where you will find some stickies that the forum members contributed to.
Start with the bottom sticky, "Unported head quickness."
Unported head quickness?
since a good chunk of money is spent on heads. This thread can stoke some ideas on how to do what you may be looking for with less.
Then it goes down in "Time slip ET's", 13, 12, 11, 10, 9 and quicker threads.

this should be excellent food for thought.
 
Happy Thanksgiving day to you and your family.

Let me start with a look through here;
Mopar Racers Forum
Where you will find some stickies that the forum members contributed to.
Start with the bottom sticky, "Unported head quickness."
Unported head quickness?
since a good chunk of money is spent on heads. This thread can stoke some ideas on how to do what you may be looking for with less.
Then it goes down in "Time slip ET's", 13, 12, 11, 10, 9 and quicker threads.

this should be excellent food for thought.
Thank you excellent advice!! Happy Thanksgiving buddy!
 


This one is always overlooked.

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Talks about the development of the w2 with Bob Mullen. Came from porting a J HEAD and using clay to shape the right turn and floor.
Just joking. It's so worn from use that the cover fell off and all the pages are gone is how the pic looks. Bad Joke as usual for me.
 
Just joking. It's so worn from use that the cover fell off and all the pages are gone is how the pic looks. Bad Joke as usual for me.
A pic from the net, that's why I didnt pay it any mind. Mine is in another room and I dont feel like getting up to take a pic. ha
However... there's an OLD thread where its contents have been somewhat posted.
 
I don't think any of my books have a full cover left on them, either that front is hanging off and the back is gone or vice versa. lol
 
This one is always overlooked.

View attachment 1715253170
I bought that 1st edition book (and a bunch of others soon afterwards) back in 83.
That's a great book that got read alot, someone borrowed it and I never got it back! Also bought this one by Vizard back then. Now falling apart, taped up, paper rotting away. Some of these books are like albums, if you could only have a couple.....

IMG_20181124_215145.jpg


IMG_20181124_215202.jpg
 
This one is always overlooked.

View attachment 1715253170
I will check that one out! I love the old school books back before everyone relied on machines and computers to do all the hard work.
When I first got into gunsmithing I bought this book and it was helpful for some stuff but every time I'd get in a tough spot and couldn't find the answer. I would start reading and he would say do this and this and if that dont work take it to a qualified gunsmith. Grrr that doenst help me if I am the gunsmith lol I dont like taking stuff to someone else to fix my stuff. I am a diyer!
I finally found a few books that really helped one was written in the late 40s right after ww2 ended and all the military surplus started rolling in to the USA and all the gunsmiths started sporterizing mausers 1903s nagants Enfields etc. The author was so old school it was crazy this gu had a section in his book about setting a barrel face back with a file by hand!!! I'm sure alot of you dont know what that means but basically he was filing the flat surface that sets against the bolt face that sets the most important measurement in a firearm the headspace. Basically this is the equivalent of boring a cylinder bore with a dremel! Lol
But that just proved to me that anything can me done with little money if you set your mind to it and put in the work!!
 
To me gear ratio is number one deciding factor. If your not willing to run deep as needed especially if you want a fast car.

So if you want to run 3.55 or higher gear ratio and the faster you want to go your gonna have to depend on larger displacements and or power adders. But if your willing to run deep gears as needed it opens up engine posiblilties.
 
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Understandable. And not what I suggested you to do.
What are you suggesting exactly? Go over with block in hand and ask him how much? I guess you are right I still haven't heard back from him I called again this morning he didn't even answer.
 
When planning a build:

Car weight

Intended usage - street, too big of a cam is a real pain.

Desired gear - 2.76

Transmission - 999 TFlite

What do I have for an engine - 318. Is the 318 block good? What bore to just clean up the cylinders? Are the mains, tappet bores clean and not rusty? If not all good find another block. The best blocks are standard and go down from there. Plan to bore and hone with torque plates and the mains torqued. What rings do you plan to use, it can effect hone finish?

Crank? Is it clean? Can it be polished? does it need to be cut? Is the thrust surface good?

Rods - stock is fine, high strength rod bolts, Magneflux and resize big end to minimum to .0002 below minimum and equalize center to center. Is the rod bolt head flush with the cut on the rod?

I use Fel-Pro Head gaskets. No seaping, no leaks.

Heads - what do you have? 302's Will probably need exhaust valves, tighten guide clearance to specs.

cc your combustion chambers.

Mill block side .020, maximum on one cut, or more if desired. Mill intake side of heads .95 of block cut, .019 if block cut .020.

Get a good valve job by someone who knows what they are doing, angles, widths, and location. Lap a couple valves, at least one intake and one exhaust valve to verify zero leakage and seat location on valve face.

For street I use .500 in max valve lift so I can use single valve springs and good Viton guide seals.

cc your combustion chambers after machining and valve job.

Plug EGR hoes in exhaust ports. 1/4 set screws.

Measure deck height. Both sides should be equal and the same front to back.

Now you can calculate piston height. If you know cam specs they can add or check piston notches for valves.

Balance the rotating assy.

Find true TDC and check timing marks.

Replace freeze plugs with brass ones.

Call Racer Brown or another good cam co. and get their recommendation. Be Honest and you will be happy if you are realistic.

Use a double roller timing set.

Check centerline of cam and adjust as necessary.

Use a windage tray and a high pressure oil pump spring.

Now your short block is ready for anything you want to do.

Torque heads to block.

Add distributor, intake and carb.

Use 340/360 exhaust manifolds or you original manifolds and 2 1/4 pipe and mufflers.
 
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