Dartfreak75... Quick TQ tuning tips Video I made for you

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1 of 2 grail TQ’s. This is the actual 850 cfm race carb. The big brother is an actual 1,000 cfm.
Notice up front there is only a spark advance port and in the rear only a brake booster port.

Other features are a manual choke and adjustable position throttle lever.

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The worthy mention of the electric choke model.
These are available in Chevy and a MoPar throttle arm. MoPar shown.
Draw back? This has the small primary. This is an excellent daily driver carb where best primary power is not obtained but that trade is is good for throttle response. Chevy throttle arm pictured last.

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The problem with later year TQ’s are the bowl designs for emissions. While there a person or two who knows how to overcome this issue, I can no longer find them around. It is just super easier to get an older model.

Your model will work great on a “STOCK” engine in the parameters it was designed for.

Taking it apart to plug the primary venturi’s and other Circuits it’s just a huge pain and a lot of wasted time and from where I stand.
 
Ok now I'm confused?? How is it the wrong carb?? What's wrong with it? I was under the impression that they all would work as long as it's not a lean burn?

Send me your address and I'll send you a good one to rebuild. Or if you want me to do it, I'll put you in line.
 
I look at TQ like this.
1. Great carb for economy and wide open throttle power'
2. Many people hate them so they can be found cheap ( or used to!!)
3 Takes knowledge to deal with them, which in turns make many people not want them. Back to cheaper!!!!!
4. They get accused of having a worping problem, way over done.
 
I look at TQ like this.
1. Great carb for economy and wide open throttle power'
2. Many people hate them so they can be found cheap ( or used to!!)
3 Takes knowledge to deal with them, which in turns make many people not want them. Back to cheaper!!!!!
4. They get accused of having a worping problem, way over done.
Well put, good post :)
 
I look at TQ like this.
1. Great carb for economy and wide open throttle power'
2. Many people hate them so they can be found cheap ( or used to!!)
3 Takes knowledge to deal with them, which in turns make many people not want them. Back to cheaper!!!!!
4. They get accused of having a worping problem, way over done.

Agreed. You can still find them cheap, but you have to be ready to buy right there and then.
 
I look at TQ like this.
1. Great carb for economy and wide open throttle power'
2. Many people hate them so they can be found cheap ( or used to!!)
3 Takes knowledge to deal with them, which in turns make many people not want them. Back to cheaper!!!!!
4. They get accused of having a worping problem, way over done.
the biggest problem with TQ''s is very poorly informed "mechanics". I once bought a TQ at a swap meet and just about every link was in the wrong place. You wouldn't believe the bending they had done to the links trying to fit them where they didn't belong. The next big mistake is tanking the bakelite bowl in super harsh solvents, and for extended periods of time. That destroys the glue on the main feed well-caps, and roughens and "dries-out" the glossy surfaces of the bowl. You only need to slosh it around in solvent cut with ATF to clean it. The most you might have to do to clean it is hit it with an old toothbrush. The glossy surface does not really hold on to dirt, rust, grease.
 
Agreed. You can still find them cheap, but you have to be ready to buy right there and then.
Bad part is there is not a Mopar swap within 800 mi of Texas!!!!
I agree, key is to find a guy that has a box of them, does not want them, hates the, etc and just make an offer for the whole box. Chaper in quanity!! I have not been to a big swap in years but I bet they are still cheap!
 
The problem with later year TQ’s are the bowl designs for emissions. While there a person or two who knows how to overcome this issue, I can no longer find them around. It is just super easier to get an older model.

Your model will work great on a “STOCK” engine in the parameters it was designed for.

Taking it apart to plug the primary venturi’s and other Circuits it’s just a huge pain and a lot of wasted time and from where I stand.

And also be prepared to be called a horder, etc. lol
 
And also be prepared to be called a horder, etc. lol
I'm a hoarder myself especially when it comes to old stuff they dont make anymore.
If I had the money I'd buy every part that I could use or store just in case I needed it some day lol. I have kept every car part I have collected thru the years I'm starting to get rid of some of it now for the simple reason I have no where to put it and I need the money to finish my engine
 
1 of 2 grail TQ’s. This is the actual 850 cfm race carb. The big brother is an actual 1,000 cfm.
Notice up front there is only a spark advance port and in the rear only a brake booster port.

Other features are a manual choke and adjustable position throttle lever.

View attachment 1715327873 View attachment 1715327874 View attachment 1715327875
That one right there is that the one you bought from here a couple weeks ago??
I was gonna buy that one and I pmed another member to ask him about it and by the time he got back to me you beat me to it lol
 
That one right there is that the one you bought from here a couple weeks ago??
I was gonna buy that one and I pmed another member to ask him about it and by the time he got back to me you beat me to it lol
I think the one you got will give you service.

Yes, it's true. The one you have is NOT the one folks are looking to buy, however, it came from the factory working on something, it will run yours as well. I would inspect it, put kit in it, make sure the floats are set correctly, and give it a whirl
 
I have a thermoquad question..The one im using on my 440 has an annoying whistle at idle and if i press on the primary throttle shaft, it quits..how in the world can i fix this?? Also, i am looking for a second thermoquad to build and i am wanting the one with the bigger primarys and no emmisions stuff beside maybe the 2 air bleeds that are inside the choke tower that you plug as thats not a problem, If anyone has a good rebuildable one like this affordable please message me.
Thanks!
 
if you put a drop of oil on the shafts near where it enters the throttle body, and that quiets it, then yeah the shaft and/or the TB casting is worn. Does the throttle shaft still have the green Teflon coating?
I've heard of some shops, drilling out the TB's and bushing them back down to size. BUT, to do it properly takes some special machines and machine tooling, and some machining skill.
 
I would guess vacuum leak at the throttle shaft. spray the shaft on the outside of the carb with carb cleaner while it's idling and whistling. I bet it goes away for a moment
 
Bushing the Thermoquad is really very easy. It takes a reamer that I found only in one place and brass tubing from the Hardware store. If anyone is interested I can list everything needed and where to get it. I've done a couple that the green Teflon is wore off of the shaft, most of the wear is in the baseplate, so when done they have still been very acceptable for use.
I watched a couple videos on Youtube, one a Quadrajet and the other an AVS or AFB variant. The Quadrajet has a much thicker baseplate than the TQ. On the Q-Jet the bushings they use and sell are much thicker than are acceptable to use on the Thermoquad, hence the thinwall brass tubing that I use on mine. Also the stainless steel throttle blade screws needed and where to get them.
I've collected quite an assortment of Thermoquads also, several NOS ones, quite a few of the electric choke models also. I take the throttle shaft out of the newer junk smogger models and put them in the Chevy models.
I'm not much of a carb tuner, but have a good friend that's very good at it. Again-very easy to rebush the TQ!
 
@rumblefish360 picked up a 6090S today for core price. Would it work alright on a 360 Magnum? Will take me a while to get it all cleaned up but its a project.
 
A ‘72 - 400. cid carb, should be good.
Any performance parts on the Magnum engine?
Cam size increased?
 
Stock atm. 340 cast iron intake, once I drill the heads. Oregon cams regrind next year. In the 67 Coronet.
 
It should be pretty close then. The 400, though 40 cubes larger and a non high performance engine (via a comparo to the past) still needs a reasonable amount of fuel to feed it. It should have a “1937” 3 step rod (.070, .046, .040) and a .095 primary jet.
.095 - .070 = .025 around the rod into the jet spacing.
It maybe a 1/2 a hair rich until you get the upgraded cam in there. No big thing I think.

Headers in use? That may bring it super close.
 
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