Thanks, it’s not the stomach that has the issue.If you can't stomach spending as much as 5K or more on a block, switch gears.
Thanks, it’s not the stomach that has the issue.If you can't stomach spending as much as 5K or more on a block, switch gears.
If you can't stomach spending as much as 5K or more on a block, switch gears.
Ehhhh, as I said, it’s not the block price but work after purchase lulled with someone who knows WTF there doing. The cost above the purchase price is a minor concern because I want I read about them. The issues seem to be wide and varied as well as extensive in some cases.Don’t sugar coat it!!
I think instead of saying “as much as”....... it should be “at least” 5K.
Ehhhh, as I said, it’s not the block price but work after purchase lulled with someone who knows WTF there doing. The cost above the purchase price is a minor concern because I want I read about them. The issues seem to be wide and varied as well as extensive in some cases.
Since machining prices vary widely by region and shop, have an idea from a known reputable shop could help somewhat.
That is not so much a question on block cost because of the reasoning above but closer to a possible heads up that could be used in conversation with a local machinist.
The biggest item is the “Work needed” on the block (as I said, reported as wide and varied) and ask my local machinist his costs.
Again, purchase price is one thing, readiness is another, cost? I wouldn’t want to spend another 2500 or 5K in work just to make the block usable score entertaining any thoughts on the rotating assembly & heads.
IDK, you tell me.Who spent 2500 fixing a block? A Ritter block?
(Again?)Again I have never, ever taken a block out of the crate and ran it. Never. Dart. World. Indy. X block. R block. None of them. Bow Tie crap.
Not surprisedThey ALL need machine work. Every one of them. Every one needed the mains cleaned up, the decks cut, the bores finished. Some needed lifter bores corrected. Some were sent back. I had two BT blocks for the same customer that I sent back. Scroggins-Dickey was sending him junk. Finally he found one somewhere else.
No one said that here.So the lie that the GM and Ford guys buy blocks and just drop them in is just that, a lie.
To me, it sure sounds like the OP had actual “issues” to contend with....... more than what would be considered normal prep and finish machining IMO.
Line hone, deck, bore & hone, hone lifter bores...... I’m okay with that.
Cam tunnel issues and head bolt holes in the wrong place....... no excuse for that with a $3000 aftermarket block, machined at what’s supposedly a high end cnc machining facility.
Thanks, it’s not the stomach that has the issue.
I’ll run a Chevy again, IDGAF.No kiddin. That's just ridiculous, I don't give a fig what you're doing. Look at a compatible Chevy block price. Yeah. Tempting ain't it?
Ha ha, well I like sugar in my coooooool aid! 5900.00 is what we get for a Ritter block that has been on a CNC and had everything checked and corrected, including: lifter bore bushings, roller cam bearings, line hone with thrust issue fixed, decked, bored and honed with TQ plate (4 bolt or 6 bolt), rear main cap corrected, drain backs added, Front of block drilled for std. timing cover, and they take a special square rear main seal....so it's not for the faint of heart. I personally am building a Gen 3 hemi for my duster right now just because it's an easy 700+HP with no real tricks...and I can move up on power if I want to (NOS would be easiest/cheapest) without changing anything (once I get my Protrans 904). Most good small blocks will take 650HP without too much trouble.Don’t sugar coat it!!
I think instead of saying “as much as”....... it should be “at least” 5K.
Ha ha, well I like sugar in my coooooool aid! 5900.00 is what we get for a Ritter block that has been on a CNC and had everything checked and corrected, including: lifter bore bushings, roller cam bearings, line hone with thrust issue fixed, decked, bored and honed with TQ plate (4 bolt or 6 bolt), rear main cap corrected, drain backs added, Front of block drilled for std. timing cover, and they take a special square rear main seal....so it's not for the faint of heart. I personally am building a Gen 3 hemi for my duster right now just because it's an easy 700+HP with no real tricks...and I can move up on power if I want to (NOS would be easiest/cheapest) without changing anything (once I get my Protrans 904). Most good small blocks will take 650HP without too much trouble.
Russ at Indy told me the reason they have aluminum AMC blocks is that a bunch of wealthy AMC racers paid for the tooling so they could have that block. Maybe we could get a bunch of SB Mopar guys interested enough to do the same thing...they must outnumber the AMC guys 1000 to 1! Just a thought...would be cool to have an aluminum block option, 4.125-4.200 bore and 340 or 360 mains, and 59 or 48° options. So for 7K you'd have a better block than the Ritter, and at least 125lbs. lighter! That's only 1100.00 more than the Ritter...and if it's done right, should hold around 1500HP or more.
It's a pipe dream for sure...what can I say, I just got back from vacation at the Beach!!
The GM small blocks don't start out at 3200+....And how much to do those same corrections on a GM block? Machine time is machine time.
The GM small blocks don't start out at 3200+....
Thanks Matt
Okay I went cast iron block so the block shipped to me was $2700, here is the work done for $3100, so the same as others, I drilled the cooling passages in the deck and the drain back holes in the cam tunnel. Dont mined the lifter size we ended up going back to a stock .904 lifter, but 59 degree, 340 mains, 9.6 deck, roller cam bearings, line honed, decked. The shop is QMP racing out in Cali. awesome shoe and Mike is fantastic to deal with, takes great care of you.
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No I had to resend it in. Here's what happened, on Hughes website it said all block are machined for a 360 pan, which I bought and modified for my application already, but since I ordered 340 mains the old shop cut the cap for a 340 oil pan, so when I send it back for 360 oil pan the inner lip which did not affect the seal what so ever was opened to match, nothing major, just a minor thing.