Drag Truck Part 2 "blackmark redemption"

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yellow rose said:
Those RPM ratings are rarely correct. You have to build around the heads, not the other way around. I’ll take the better head any day over a smaller head. As long as the bigger head isn’t bigger because someone just ground the hell out of it.

A correctly shaped, larger port is almost always a better deal when you account for it. That means not using cheap headers (there’s a reason why the fast guys spend 2000-3000 bucks for headers), that means not using an off the shelf cam, and spending a bit of time on the phone with the cam grinder, not texts or emails. You can’t duplicate the flow of a conversation in texts and emails like you can on the phone.

I’d also consider a 50 degree seat on those heads. The steeper seats help with low speed air flow and reversion, but again, the cam grinder needs to understand that, and I’ve talked to some who say it doesn’t matter. But it does.

The bigger head will most likely take less port work to get it in shape, and you can take your money and time getting the intake manifold in shape.

Compression ratio makes a big difference when using a head most think is too big for the application. IMO, the closer you get to 12:1 the better off you are, and if you do it correctly, you can still use pump gas.

If you can’t spend close to 1k on a converter, you’re kinda wasting your time no matter what you do. I just ordered a PTC drag week style converter for a street/strip deal for a friend. 8 inch housing and an 8 inch stator. Should get him to 5000ish for flash stall, and with his transmission cooler he can drive it anywhere. Well worth the 875 bucks for a custom converter.

IMO you can use those heads. It’s attention to detail that makes or breaks a build. I’d use a single plane intake with those heads, and a carb with nothing bigger than a 1.470ish venturi. Anything bigger and it starts to kill the bottom. Buy a carb that has changeable brass, like a QF Brawler (just cleaned one up for a friend so they are pretty tuneable but out of the box they have some stuff I don’t like) or the ProForm carbs. The PF carbs are a pretty good bang for the buck, but again, you need to go in and clean up a few things, and then tune from there,

Of course, this blows up and buries your budget. That always happens. Speed costs money. Spent wisely, you can have an overachiever. Spent like a drunken sailor (no offense to sailors and marines) you’ll have an underachiever.

Just my .02 cents, and it’s worth EXACTY what you paid for it.
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Well that was some seriously wasted breath LOL.. your trying to sell a Gucci bag to the shoe shine boy...
 
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68dodge said:
j par You mentioned it about the video, so what are you talking about no street vehicle?
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Hey I'm just going by 318's standards as in it must be able to cruise the freeway comfortably for an hour to the...
I have always had legal plates on my car and drove it to the dragstrip and raced it and could barely idle at a stoplight LOL but some people aren't willing to go that far...
 
68dodge said:
j par You mentioned it about the video, so what are you talking about no street vehicle?
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also what kind of corner are you trying to back me into here what are you really saying what do you think A streetcar is or isn't???..
 
yellow rose said:
Those RPM ratings are rarely correct. You have to build around the heads, not the other way around. I’ll take the better head any day over a smaller head. As long as the bigger head isn’t bigger because someone just ground the hell out of it.

A correctly shaped, larger port is almost always a better deal when you account for it. That means not using cheap headers (there’s a reason why the fast guys spend 2000-3000 bucks for headers), that means not using an off the shelf cam, and spending a bit of time on the phone with the cam grinder, not texts or emails. You can’t duplicate the flow of a conversation in texts and emails like you can on the phone.

I’d also consider a 50 degree seat on those heads. The steeper seats help with low speed air flow and reversion, but again, the cam grinder needs to understand that, and I’ve talked to some who say it doesn’t matter. But it does.

The bigger head will most likely take less port work to get it in shape, and you can take your money and time getting the intake manifold in shape.

Compression ratio makes a big difference when using a head most think is too big for the application. IMO, the closer you get to 12:1 the better off you are, and if you do it correctly, you can still use pump gas.

If you can’t spend close to 1k on a converter, you’re kinda wasting your time no matter what you do. I just ordered a PTC drag week style converter for a street/strip deal for a friend. 8 inch housing and an 8 inch stator. Should get him to 5000ish for flash stall, and with his transmission cooler he can drive it anywhere. Well worth the 875 bucks for a custom converter.

IMO you can use those heads. It’s attention to detail that makes or breaks a build. I’d use a single plane intake with those heads, and a carb with nothing bigger than a 1.470ish venturi. Anything bigger and it starts to kill the bottom. Buy a carb that has changeable brass, like a QF Brawler (just cleaned one up for a friend so they are pretty tuneable but out of the box they have some stuff I don’t like) or the ProForm carbs. The PF carbs are a pretty good bang for the buck, but again, you need to go in and clean up a few things, and then tune from there,

Of course, this blows up and buries your budget. That always happens. Speed costs money. Spent wisely, you can have an overachiever. Spent like a drunken sailor (no offense to sailors and marines) you’ll have an underachiever.

Just my .02 cents, and it’s worth EXACTY what you paid for it.
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I 100% agree with you on everything you wrote, but the part with most truth is written at the bottom - "budget killer"
 
j par said:
also what kind of corner are you trying to back me into here what are you really saying what do you think A streetcar is or isn't???..
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Just wanted to know what kind of vehicles you are talking about! I drive my truck and car on the street, which are both street legal and can drive for hour. Both will run down in the low 11's just like the truck in the video.
 
68dodge said:
Just wanted to know what kind of vehicles you are talking about! I drive my truck and car on the street, which are both street legal and can drive for hour. Both will run down in the low 11's just like the truck in the video.
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Did you build your truck for under 5K?..
 
j par said:
I would like to defer that question to 318willrun...
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Then I'll answer, although the car's intended purpose would dictate the answer. Assuming we are talking about the Truck (after all, that's what the thread is about), I'll Say Street Car (my truck) Criteria:
  1. Run on pump gas
  2. cruises 55 mph on a 85* day for 1/2 hour without overheating
  3. drives and races on D.O.T. tires
  4. Plated and insured, and can go by a cop without being pulled over (EXHAUST!!)
 
j par said:
Did you build your truck for under 5K?..
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you know better LOL...… Look at his Truck, it's a cotton-pick'n show truck, Pro Street more correctly. His truck has nothing to do with my budget build.
 
68dodge said:
That not the question. It's what you said bout the video. How do know the person may have only use 5K in the video?
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68dodge said:
That not the question. It's what you said bout the video. How do know the person may have only use 5K in the video?
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J par knows the difference. My truck isn't nice, and the money going into it will be drive train, not paint and interior or expensive gages or headers. J par had to go pure drag with slicks, racing fuel, lexan windows, etc just to hit mid 11's so he assumes that's what everyone has to do :D
 
j par said:
Well that was some seriously wasted breath LOL.. your trying to sell a Gucci bag to the shoe shine boy...
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I still may use the heads..... and I agree with what he said. Just hard to do when you buy and build the vehicle with 5k
 
318willrun said:
J par knows the difference. My truck isn't nice, and the money going into it will be drive train, not paint and interior or expensive gages or headers. J par had to go pure drag with slicks, racing fuel, lexan windows, etc just to hit mid 11's so he assumes that's what everyone has to do :D
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"Jpar had to"???... Is that what I said? I had to?...
 
318willrun said:
J par knows the difference. My truck isn't nice, and the money going into it will be drive train, not paint and interior or expensive gages or headers. J par had to go pure drag with slicks, racing fuel, lexan windows, etc just to hit mid 11's so he assumes that's what everyone has to do :D
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Maybe 318's dream will come true and he will actually do 11's in his a body Mopar for the first time in his life..:D..
 
318willrun said:
Maybe "needed" would be a better term.
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"Wanted".. IS the only term...
remember you're on a serious weight loss program of your own here and have three fingers pointing back at you the whole time you're talking... Ah, with no time slip...:(..:D..
 
j par said:
Maybe 318's dream will come true and he will actually do 11's in his a body Mopar for the first time in his life..:D..
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Yeah, in the 6 years I've owned this Duster, it's been a highway cruiser, spending much of it's time with 2.45 gears and stock manifolds along with stock motor and tranny. Just last year I "upgraded :D" to 2.94's and headers, dropping to 13.3's

j par said:
remember you're on a serious weight loss program of your own here and have three fingers pointing back at you the whole time you're talking... Ah, with no time slip...:(..:D..
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You bet we are loosing weight!!! But, we are trying to buy and build a flat nose truck on 5000 dollars and go fast. You have 6k just into the motor alone!! BIG BIG difference.
 
318willrun said:
Then I'll answer, although the car's intended purpose would dictate the answer. Assuming we are talking about the Truck (after all, that's what the thread is about), I'll Say Street Car (my truck) Criteria:
  1. Run on pump gas
  2. cruises 55 mph on a 85* day for 1/2 hour without overheating
  3. drives and races on D.O.T. tires
  4. Plated and insured, and can go by a cop without being pulled over (EXHAUST!!)
Click to expand...


My junk does all that.
 
318willrun said:
Yeah, in the 6 years I've owned this Duster, it's been a highway cruiser, spending much of it's time with 2.45 gears and stock manifolds along with stock motor and tranny. Just last year I "upgraded :D" to 2.94's and headers, dropping to 13.3's


You bet we are loosing weight!!! But, we are trying to buy and build a flat nose truck on 5000 dollars and go fast. You have 6k just into the motor alone!! BIG BIG difference.
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Yes I bought my duster 6 years ago and 5 1/2 years ago I paid in the neighborhood of 6,000 I can't say it was less or more and I'm saying that's everything including the 8 quart oil pan to the dual quad tunnel ram...
The point was to have something powerful and nice for years to come instead of fiddling with old junk..
For once in my life I just wanted a nice quality motor that I could build and play with and try different cams and try different heads and have great performance no matter how hard I tried to screw it up LOL...
 
j par said:
Yes I bought my duster 6 years ago and 5 1/2 years ago I paid in the neighborhood of 6,000 I can't say it was less or more and I'm saying that's everything including the 8 quart oil pan to the dual quad tunnel ram...
The point was to have something powerful and nice for years to come instead of fiddling with old junk..
For once in my life I just wanted a nice quality motor that I could build and play with and try different cams and try different heads and have great performance no matter how hard I tried to screw it up LOL...
Click to expand...
Exactly. Every build has a different purpose. 10 years ago I said I was done with the header/rough idle cam/high stalls/4.+ gearing for good. Pretty much have stuck to it all with both Dusters I have now. Of course, the Dougs don't bother me the way they fit. But see, now this truck will be the opposite, and it doesn't matter because my son has his Scat, my son in law has his 'Stang, my wife has her R/C, and I have my Dusters. This has giving us the most laughs and fun recently.
 
318willrun said:
Exactly. Every build has a different purpose. 10 years ago I said I was done with the header/rough idle cam/high stalls/4.+ gearing for good. Pretty much have stuck to it all with both Dusters I have now. Of course, the Dougs don't bother me the way they fit. But see, now this truck will be the opposite, and it doesn't matter because my son has his Scat, my son in law has his 'Stang, my wife has her R/C, and I have my Dusters. This has giving us the most laughs and fun recently.
Click to expand...
I can see where you wouldn't want to put all that money into those heads just to put them on a 40 year old block and pistons...
 
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