I caved and bought an evercool hydraulic flaring kit. It is the ultimate! Deluxe, as my buddy says.
Dartin for Divorce
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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For tight complex bends i fill lines with sand, then blow them out after, brake cleaner and blow again, sounds like work, but it makes for very nice bends.
The deluxe kit sounds nice but hopefully I won't be doing this again, so gotta make the cheap one work lol. Also I probably won't do the sand in the line but I would love to know the reasoning behind doing this and how it helps. It's good to have extra knowledge tucked away as you never know when it might come in handy
Helps prevent the line from kinking when bending.
Thats kind of what I figured but just wanted to make sure.
Thanks! Just got my new cutter and going to knock some of these lines out.
Tube stays round when you bend it. Tape one end, fill it, tape other end and bob’s your uncle!
flaring, i usually,used to i should say, is clamp the flaring block in the vise,makes it much easier to do consistent flares. Clean out any burr inside tube,and tighten wing nut closest to tube first,the leverage aids in gripping tube.
flaring, i usually,used to i should say, is clamp the flaring block in the vise,makes it much easier to do consistent flares. Clean out any burr inside tube,and tighten wing nut closest to tube first,the leverage aids in gripping tube.
Had to go exchange it, eh? i see what you did there.
Haha nope, I actually got the correct tubing and fittings. I know that doesn't happen often right?
Lol. My brain obviously isnt listening to my eyes..
Mine does that very often. Like my brain says I'm good lookin but my eyes see something different...
Made another brake line.
Making the flares sucks, because if it gets just barely off centered when you're tightening the clamp it ruins it and you have to cut and redo it.
I measured this line long though so it all worked out. This is the first end, it has a little imperfection on the outer wall of the flare but the sealing portion is nice so I think it will work just fine.
Making the flares sucks, because if it gets just barely off centered when you're tightening the clamp it ruins it and you have to cut and redo it.
I measured this line long though so it all worked out. This is the first end, it has a little imperfection on the outer wall of the flare but the sealing portion is nice so I think it will work just fine.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
What I have done and it does work well. But try on scrap line. Get the flare to bulb the line in the first step. Then with it clamped into the tool, before using the cone to fold the line inward take a smooth headed ball pein hammer and tap the bulbed part flat working the metal inward. You dont have to really smash the **** out of it, just work it down flat and towards the center of the hole. Then put the cone part on to drive it inward to create the double flare. This works great this way. Try it.
after you clamp the line in the fixture, clamp the fixture in a vise. also just before you insert the die in the tube, double check the tube extends past the fixture the proper amount.
Ooh thats a good idea. I'll give it a try on the line from the prop valve to the rear end.
Yes I put the fixture in a vise it worked well that way and I went nice and slow backing it off then the centering it to tighten it more.
The step on the die is the amount that sticks out of the clampy thingie..i use a flat file to trim up the end of the tube. Quite often the cutter leaves a tiny burr, you have to get rid of it.
I think in the first year of owning my first flare kit i broke the pin off the 3/16 die 3 or 4 times. Partly because i didnt use a vise.
I think in the first year of owning my first flare kit i broke the pin off the 3/16 die 3 or 4 times. Partly because i didnt use a vise.
Thats what the groove in the tubing cutter is for, cutting off the screwed up flare. Most often used for cutting flare to put the nut on that you forgot..
When you get all done including bleeding spray the **** out of everything with brake clean wait 5 minutes and clean again. Then grab the steering wheel put both feet on the brake pedal and press it as hard as you can. Push that damn thing thru the floor and hold it for at least 30 seconds. Then look at everything no leakys. Then do it again. If something is going to leak or break let it do it now not at 60. Works for me.
Yes I have a fingernail file and a large file that I have been using to clean up the ends of the tubing after I cut it. The inner burs can be a bugger to get out. Is this bur breaks ill just go and tell them their flare kit sucks lol. They all know me by name at Orelly's now, its like they expect my daily appearance.
Yes I want no leaks and no air. Hopefully the new lines help everything be nice and crisp.
I also bought some cork to make a gasket for the back of the MC. I didnt want stainless because its harder and less forgiving. Bending the line isn't hard it's only making sure the flares are clean, that's the most time consuming part.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Did the trick I mentioned work for you?
Haven't done another line yet. Just ate some tacos and now hanging with the baby while the wifey takes a shower. Lame I wasn't even invited to go shower for some dessert.
If it helps, I just got done bending some 5/16 brake tube to make the line going from the fuel pump to the carb. I used a spring bender, and had help from my girl to provide bending force while I held the bender in place with both hands. It worked like a champ.
I have this little hand bending line tool and bending the line is the easy part. Tomorrow ill hopefully get a little time to finish the front to back lines and the rear lines. Measure 5x cut once, and make like 2-4 flares per flare position
, maybe tomorrow the flares will go a little better.
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Yeah, ain't making double flare brake lines fun? Not! Anyhow, with all the above suggestions I have another that's helped me over the years = a little brake fluid where the cone on the tool meets the line/area to be flared, sort of just helps a bit if for some reason the cone tries to turn as you're crimping, allows it to turn with the crimp versus not turning and putting a flat crimp in the double flare, which of course means "cut it off and start over".
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