moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
It's not an orphan, it's a Frankenstein.
Orphans........
- Thread starter 318willrun
- Start date
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motorpirate
serial mopar owner
Nick and I did an HEI "proof of concept" conversion on Dany's Magnum swap in about 15 minutes with a module/coil/harness off a 5.7 TBI motor, including removing it from the donor.
The 8 pin module is available EVERWHERE...
I'll get some picks today but there was nothing to it... And BIG SPARK!!!
Total misuse of the word “Orphan!”
Dang!
Dang!
Not GM, but HEI (or, the chinese version).
Doesn't the ballast also help the life of the coil?? Thanks for you input!
I pulled it out of a '89 TBI 360 years ago. Amazing enough, it had the fuel pump eccentric bolted on it, but the mechanical fuel pump mount was blocked off.
VERY possible......
I guess to me a "Frankenstein" was custom created parts for a specific project. This guy just crossed wired the boxes and used existing components that he only knew the beginning of leaving an unwanted child, creating an orphan. I don't know, somebody help me understand.... LOL
@318willrun
Following along on your roller magnum to 4 bbl conversion. If you can get your valve lifter ticking to go away and want to keep the short snout roller cam that is in there now. Here is a work-around for driving the eccentric on the short snout roller cams that is working for me. Have a hand written spec sheet on that Bushing/Adapter if you want to make one.
Following along on your roller magnum to 4 bbl conversion. If you can get your valve lifter ticking to go away and want to keep the short snout roller cam that is in there now. Here is a work-around for driving the eccentric on the short snout roller cams that is working for me. Have a hand written spec sheet on that Bushing/Adapter if you want to make one.
Don't call it orphan, call it POS. That way, it'll likely always impress, because its name is at the bottom of the barrel. LOL
Thanks, and i think hughes sells the kit for 25 bucks. Two things: 1. the cam that is in there is supposed to be long snout if i was to use it. 2. I'm swapping this cam because I refuse to run the bronze gear.
I tore into it today, taking pictures as I go for "memory enhancers". It has aftermarket brackets for the A/C and alternator that is sort of like a puzzle. Anyways, tore down the front to the timing chain cover/balancer. I'll pull them tomorrow along with the timing chain. He had brought 2 additional wires from the main harness to the alternator. Hmmm.... lol.
- I usually don't name my cars, but I think this one will be called "Annie"
Just wire in a 4 pin hei, If you take an old wiring harness, you can steal the distributor plug out of, connect it right to the distributor, and hook the other two wires to the coil, too easy.
I have run this on my 71 D100, my dads 78 W150, my 78 W150, my Duster, and will also use it to power my 70 Cuda, and 70 challenger.
Thanks. I'm just not so sure there is anything easier or simpler than points and 1 wire that goes to the coil. I've bought a new points dizzy already.
Take it back, it is super easy to wire in a HEI module and as a bonus, you by-pass the ballist resistor.
But you do need a internal resistance coil, no issue, Accell yellow coil is available at every parts store.
Once you do it, you will say to yourself, that was easy.
For sure the HEI system is becoming ever so popular and finding their ways in more and more mopars. In fact, the van now has a "chinese" version of it in it now. It does run good. In fact, I can't complain about how the ole' boy had everything working, but if it ever stopped working is what's in the back of my mind... LOL.
That is why you use a stock distributor, and a hei module.
Parts are available anywhere.
Parts are available anywhere.
And the amount of wires coming out of the black box.... Land-ye-Goosh'ns!!!! That cord must be larger than a quarter .... LOL
He barely had any belt contact with the water pump pulley. It cooled fine, but man, I feel i should do a little about that.....
what year of HEI module do you buy?
Oh, this is running now with the points distributor, but the coil is heating up hotter than it should (no ballast resistor). Not sure if I just want to buy a coil with the internal resistor or go another route like you described
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK look. There was a GOOD reason for a coil / ballast as opposed to a 'straight 12v coil.'
That is, during starting, the IGN2 circuit BYPASSES the ballast. This gives you a hotter starting spark, something you don't get with a non-ballast coil. And one fine wet, cold day or night, that might just make the difference. Or, maybe, it's a little flooded, and "could use" a bit more spark
Electronic
There are MANY ways to go. You can EASILY find Mopar OEM breakerless dist's MUCH easier than you can find breaker points dist. It is EASY to hook the thing up with a stock or other coil---and no ballast---to a GM 4 pin HEI module. You can buy a replacement module in any parts store, and likely, parts for the Mopar dist as well
Most? All? of the "ready to run" stuff is CHINESE. Some guys have had good luck with them but still......and you won't buy replacement modules for THOSE anywhere soon.
So far as breaker points, I've driven thousands of miles "in my day" with breaker points. But nowadays, "if I have a choice" I'll have electronic ignition.
That is, during starting, the IGN2 circuit BYPASSES the ballast. This gives you a hotter starting spark, something you don't get with a non-ballast coil. And one fine wet, cold day or night, that might just make the difference. Or, maybe, it's a little flooded, and "could use" a bit more spark
Electronic
There are MANY ways to go. You can EASILY find Mopar OEM breakerless dist's MUCH easier than you can find breaker points dist. It is EASY to hook the thing up with a stock or other coil---and no ballast---to a GM 4 pin HEI module. You can buy a replacement module in any parts store, and likely, parts for the Mopar dist as well
Most? All? of the "ready to run" stuff is CHINESE. Some guys have had good luck with them but still......and you won't buy replacement modules for THOSE anywhere soon.
So far as breaker points, I've driven thousands of miles "in my day" with breaker points. But nowadays, "if I have a choice" I'll have electronic ignition.
I just buy the HEI module for a 78 chevy truck.
Coil I use this one on all my conversions. Plus most parts stores carry it.
ACCEL SuperStock Ignition Coils 8145ACC
Coil I use this one on all my conversions. Plus most parts stores carry it.
ACCEL SuperStock Ignition Coils 8145ACC
j par
Well-hung Member
I know I probably said this in this thread before and I also know where I'm throwing my pearls... but for sure there isn't one customer of mine that has had points that I didn't switch over to a patronix at the very least... I've had cars with points and I've dealt with the tach and dwell and I've had to work with them over the years many times in the past but no longer... Again that was in the past and will remain that way...
Now go ahead and trample....
Now go ahead and trample....
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
GM 4 pin HEI module on a www.designed2drive.com mounting bracket. My GM to mopar adaptor is homemade. The bracket is well worth the $25
RabidScott
Well-Known Member
I'm a junkyard dawg (or was before all the good schtuff dried up) and love function over form. I did this on my slant sex '67 Value-int and it worked like a charm!
8145ACC is unavailable, most say they can't ship till November. Is there another coil that has built in resistor? MSD 2 ?? Does the GM HEI module (bought one for a '78 Chivy truck 350) need the 8145? Will it run fine with a factory Mopar coil ???
On Brian's Valiant we use a 4 pin HEI with a 1990 ford f150 coil. Standard Motor Products # FD478T and connector #S539
I had to make a bracket to mount it.
Wonder about one off of a magnum?? I have one of them?
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