moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
It's not an orphan, it's a Frankenstein.
Nick and I did an HEI "proof of concept" conversion on Dany's Magnum swap in about 15 minutes with a module/coil/harness off a 5.7 TBI motor, including removing it from the donor.It's in a van, the distributor couldn't be more exposed once the dog house is removed. I don't have a problem with electronic ignition, but how would i wire it into the black box?
Not GM, but HEI (or, the chinese version).That's not GM HEI. That's a total aftermarket. The GM HEI has the BIG cap. Like this one I have for a low deck big block. I like the point type ignition idea.....but that's still orphaned up since it didn't come that way. At least by your own definition. If it was mine, that black box would be layin in the ditch and I would have converted it to early 70s wiring. Just basic stuff.
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Doesn't the ballast also help the life of the coil?? Thanks for you input!Here is a points distributor with the Run Stand. One blue + wire to the coil, that's it. Don't even have a ballast resistor in line. They say it is easier on the points if the ballast is in line, but it runs fine without it.
Think the worst thing with no ballast is if you leave the key on without the engine running then that is what is hard on the points getting full power.
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I pulled it out of a '89 TBI 360 years ago. Amazing enough, it had the fuel pump eccentric bolted on it, but the mechanical fuel pump mount was blocked off.Where did you get your 89 long snout roller cam? Got to have them to run the fuel pump eccentric for the manual fuel pump.
Would like to know, if I do another roller TBI engine 4 bbl conversation.
I Did make an adapter for the stock short snout roller cam to drive the fuel pump eccentric on my 91 318 roller with the 4bbl on it now.
VERY possible......Then there is also the possibility it's been into and someone reinstalled some of the lifters wrong. They can be installed wrong and there's only one way. The oil hole in the lifters points towards the center of the engine. If they are installed with the oil holes pointing to the outside of the engine, the oil can partially drain out of them causing ticking on startup.
I guess to me a "Frankenstein" was custom created parts for a specific project. This guy just crossed wired the boxes and used existing components that he only knew the beginning of leaving an unwanted child, creating an orphan. I don't know, somebody help me understand.... LOLIt's not an orphan, it's a Frankenstein.
Thanks, and i think hughes sells the kit for 25 bucks. Two things: 1. the cam that is in there is supposed to be long snout if i was to use it. 2. I'm swapping this cam because I refuse to run the bronze gear.@318willrun
Following along on your roller magnum to 4 bbl conversion. If you can get your valve lifter ticking to go away and want to keep the short snout roller cam that is in there now. Here is a work-around for driving the eccentric on the short snout roller cams that is working for me. Have a hand written spec sheet on that Bushing/Adapter if you want to make one.
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Just wire in a 4 pin hei, If you take an old wiring harness, you can steal the distributor plug out of, connect it right to the distributor, and hook the other two wires to the coil, too easy.It's in a van, the distributor couldn't be more exposed once the dog house is removed. I don't have a problem with electronic ignition, but how would i wire it into the black box?
Thanks. I'm just not so sure there is anything easier or simpler than points and 1 wire that goes to the coil. I've bought a new points dizzy already.Just wire in a 4 pin hei, If you take an old wiring harness, you can steal the distributor plug out of, connect it right to the distributor, and hook the other two wires to the coil, too easy.
I have run this on my 71 D100, my dads 78 W150, my 78 W150, my Duster, and will also use it to power my 70 Cuda, and 70 challenger.
Take it back, it is super easy to wire in a HEI module and as a bonus, you by-pass the ballist resistor.Thanks. I'm just not so sure there is anything easier or simpler than points and 1 wire that goes to the coil. I've bought a new points dizzy already.
For sure the HEI system is becoming ever so popular and finding their ways in more and more mopars. In fact, the van now has a "chinese" version of it in it now. It does run good. In fact, I can't complain about how the ole' boy had everything working, but if it ever stopped working is what's in the back of my mind... LOL.Take it back, it is super easy to wire in a HEI module and as a bonus, you by-pass the ballist resistor.
But you do need a internal resistance coil, no issue, Accell yellow coil is available at every parts store.
Once you do it, you will say to yourself, that was easy.
what year of HEI module do you buy?Take it back, it is super easy to wire in a HEI module and as a bonus, you by-pass the ballist resistor.
But you do need a internal resistance coil, no issue, Accell yellow coil is available at every parts store.
Once you do it, you will say to yourself, that was easy.
Ordered one...GM 4 pin HEI module on a www.designed2drive.com mounting bracket. My GM to mopar adaptor is homemade. The bracket is well worth the $25
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8145ACC is unavailable, most say they can't ship till November. Is there another coil that has built in resistor? MSD 2 ?? Does the GM HEI module (bought one for a '78 Chivy truck 350) need the 8145? Will it run fine with a factory Mopar coil ???I just buy the HEI module for a 78 chevy truck.
Coil I use this one on all my conversions. Plus most parts stores carry it.
ACCEL SuperStock Ignition Coils 8145ACC
8145ACC is unavailable, most say they can't ship till November. Is there another coil that has built in resistor? MSD 2 ?? Does the GM HEI module (bought one for a '78 Chivy truck 350) need the 8145? Will it run fine with a factory Mopar coil ???
Wonder about one off of a magnum?? I have one of them?On Brian's Valiant we use a 4 pin HEI with a 1990 ford f150 coil. Standard Motor Products # FD478T and connector #S539
I had to make a bracket to mount it.
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