Ron816
Mopar forever
I have a 68 GTS, nothing in the instrument cluster is working, Fuel, temp,alt gauge, dash lights all not working, any suggestions?
Instrument cluster issues
- Thread starter Ron816
- Start date
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DARTGAME
SuPeRcHaRgEd
Check the basics, is there power at fuse panel? Is there a good ground to dash frame? Is anything operating in instrument panel? Do you have a second voltage limiter to try?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Well you may have several problems. The ammeter is NOT connected to ANYTHING in the cluster in any way. It is in series with main power, so if that is not working you have a basic problem in power distribution
Does ANYTHING work, the dome lights? Does it crank and start?
DID it work or did you buy it in this condtion? Someone may have bypassed the alternator.
So far as the dash lamps they are a "trick."
The headlight switch has TWO power supplies, one of which ONLY supplies just the headlamps
The other source comes from the hot buss in the fuse panel for the park/ tail lamps. So the park/ tail lamps must be working
With the switch in "park" and the dash dimmer (knob) turned to the left, dimmer controlled power is fed OUT of the switch on tan, down to the little "inst" fuse in the panel. From there, lighting is fed out on orange wiring to the radio, cluster, etc.
Do you have a service manual/ wiring diagrams? If not go to MyMopar and download them for free
Does ANYTHING work, the dome lights? Does it crank and start?
DID it work or did you buy it in this condtion? Someone may have bypassed the alternator.
So far as the dash lamps they are a "trick."
The headlight switch has TWO power supplies, one of which ONLY supplies just the headlamps
The other source comes from the hot buss in the fuse panel for the park/ tail lamps. So the park/ tail lamps must be working
With the switch in "park" and the dash dimmer (knob) turned to the left, dimmer controlled power is fed OUT of the switch on tan, down to the little "inst" fuse in the panel. From there, lighting is fed out on orange wiring to the radio, cluster, etc.
Do you have a service manual/ wiring diagrams? If not go to MyMopar and download them for free
Or it was bypassed (MAD)
It almost has to be multiple issues like Del said. For "most" everything else besides the amp gauge, I would guess a bad ground. If they are like the early cars (my 64 Valiant for example, they ground through the dash screws. Rust and dirt can compromise that. Just something to check on. Of course it's also possible that all the gauges and dash lights are bad. But not very probable.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Hey Ron816,
The solution is in the above post.
1. Did this problem just occur ?
2. If it did , what were you working on?
3. Does the car start?
4. Best thing about this type of complete failure is that there is usually a simple solution. Ie.. blown 5V regulator, bad ground, circuit board problem.
Ron816
Mopar forever
I have headlights,marker lights brake lights car starts directionals work but the dash indicators do not, When I received the car it needed total restoration I replaced all wiring harnesses except for the under dash, I did remove the dash and cleaned up the cluster. As soon as I get a chance I will run a ground wire to the cluster and see if that works I have a IVR out of a 74 satellite will that be the same as my 68?
If the instrument panel isn't chassis grounded, the only features that will work are a brake warning lamp and oil warning lamp. Those get their ground at remote switches. Everything else is grounded at the panel.
All plug in type mechanic limiters are about the same. Some have a added ground terminal on the back of them. Same applies to headlight switches. Factory did start adding ground wires here and there. Early models relied on the screws that attach circuit boards to housings and housings to dash. Ground jumper from chassis to engine block at the firewall is a player in chassis ground path also.
All plug in type mechanic limiters are about the same. Some have a added ground terminal on the back of them. Same applies to headlight switches. Factory did start adding ground wires here and there. Early models relied on the screws that attach circuit boards to housings and housings to dash. Ground jumper from chassis to engine block at the firewall is a player in chassis ground path also.
Except the ammeter
Ron816
Mopar forever
Redfish
"Everything else is grounded at the panel"
Dana67dart
"except the ammeter"
Ron816
"I found no power at the fuse"
The ammeter is not fused (fusable link from ammeter to battery but nowhere does it run thru the fuse box) direct wire to alternator. No ground to an ammeter.
There is a tap off the black wire from the ammeter to the alternator that feeds some of the cir's in the car. One of the taps goes thru the fuse box.
"Everything else is grounded at the panel"
Dana67dart
"except the ammeter"
Ron816
"I found no power at the fuse"
The ammeter is not fused (fusable link from ammeter to battery but nowhere does it run thru the fuse box) direct wire to alternator. No ground to an ammeter.
There is a tap off the black wire from the ammeter to the alternator that feeds some of the cir's in the car. One of the taps goes thru the fuse box.
Ron816
Mopar forever
So how does that effect no power at fuse?
My only point was that the ammeter should be working with or without the inst cluster being propperly grounded.
UNLESS the ammeter has been bypassed.
UNLESS the ammeter has been bypassed.
Tylan
Well-Known Member
Is there a way to test the regulator itself? My cluster works fine other than the fuel and temp guage shooting to max immediately after start up.
You can apply 12 v to the correct terminal and ground to the correct terminal. The 3rd terminal will need a load like a small lightbulb. You should be able to watch the lightbulb go on and off at some rate.
Also you can measure the voltage output with the bulb attached and it should be around 5 to 6 volts, an old style analog meter would be best for this.
But your symptom is typical of a IVR that is stuck closed and will burn up your guages (literally)
Tylan
Well-Known Member
Curious as to why it pulses...
Also, if the IVR were stuck closed, could I potentially open it up carefully and service it or am I better off biting the 50 buck bullet on a new one?
The IVR works like a blinker. It opens and closes a cir faster or slower depending on the current being drawn. This results in a plused DC with an average of about 5 volts, modern elctronic versions most likely just supply a 5 to 6 volts continuous voltage.
Could you open it and fix it, maybe, but if you mess it up your looking at new guages.
Classic Ind sells one for 30.00, others are there on eBay google etc
1969 Dodge Dart Parts | IVR607 | 1966-74 Mopar A, B & E-Body Instrument Voltage Regulator | Classic Industries
Could you open it and fix it, maybe, but if you mess it up your looking at new guages.
Classic Ind sells one for 30.00, others are there on eBay google etc
1969 Dodge Dart Parts | IVR607 | 1966-74 Mopar A, B & E-Body Instrument Voltage Regulator | Classic Industries
Demonic
Well-Known Member
Ron816
Mopar forever
No power going to fuse for instrument panel, nothing working in cluster, any ideas?
Arron tate
T B L
Hello Ron816
Can you please provide some additional information so our fellow FABO members can try to provide advice to correct your power loss.
Year, Make, Model, engine, Pictures will also help. What is not working on the cluster ? Is there any other power loss on other systems ? Any modifications ?
Thanks in advance.
Stay Safe....
Happy Mopar
Arron.
Ron816
Mopar forever
It’s a 1968 GTS four-speed H code no modifications done nothing works in the instrument cluster no gauges no directional indicators no dash lights nothing everything else in the car works fine just no power to the fuse for the clusterHello Ron816
Can you please provide some additional information so our fellow FABO members can try to provide advice to correct your power loss.
Year, Make, Model, engine, Pictures will also help. What is not working on the cluster ? Is there any other power loss on other systems ? Any modifications ?
Thanks in advance.
Stay Safe....
Happy Mopar
Arron.
Lets put this back into your original thread.
Lets keep this simple.
Engine off, key off, does the ammeter move when the dome lights or any other lights turn on?
If so, does it move toward discharge?
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The fuse for the instrument lighting is supplied power through the headlight switch. That's either a 2 or 3 amp fuse.
There is no fuse for the gages.
There is no fuse for the turn signal indicators.
Power for the turn signals and turn signal indicators comes through the flasher module from a welded junction in the accessory circuit.
Power for the instrument gages comes from the same welded junction in the accessory circuit.
Accessory is off with the key off, and on with key in run. All switched power other than the ignition and alternator field is an 'accessory'.
Lighting is not switched. It's hot at all times.
Schematically looks like this.
Connection details on your '68 may be slightly different but it works the same way.
Starting a 2nd thread ain't gonna help sorry.
Instrument cluster issuesHello Ron816
Can you please provide some additional information so our fellow FABO members can try to provide advice to correct your power loss.
Year, Make, Model, engine, Pictures will also help. What is not working on the cluster ? Is there any other power loss on other systems ? Any modifications ?
Thanks in advance.
Stay Safe....
Happy Mopar
Arron.
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