Crazy idea

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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But maybe a good one. I am concerned about the break in procedure and getting the engine started quickly. My main concern was fuel. With a new tank new line new pump etc thats a long way for the pump to suck fuel before it gets to the carb ie lots of cranking! So I had a crazy idea that I thought about and I'm gonna try it, it can't hurt. I bought a cheap 5-7 psi electric fuel pump im gonna wire in to assist with the priming. I will hook it up inline with the carb bypassing the pump let is suckulate the fuel till the lines are fuel and the bowl in the carb is full then unhook it and hook the mechanical pump into the line and carb like it should be. Then the fuel lines as well as the carb will have fuel in them give the carb a couple pumps make sure its spraying and it orda pop right off as long as I have spark. What do yall think?
 
Can you put the electric pump at the end of the fuel line with the mechanical pump still hooked up? That way everything is primed at initial crank.
 
WTruo said:
Can you put the electric pump at the end of the fuel line with the mechanical pump still hooked up? That way everything is primed at initial crank.
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You could. It hooks in just like a fuel filter
 
yellow rose said:
I just fill the float bowls with fuel using a squirt bottle. Every carb has a vent, so out the fuel in there and start it.
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But there is a chance it would die while the line is priming i would have to continue to pour gas in the vent while holding the throttle and keeping the rpms above 2000. Seems easier and safer to have the carb and lines full already
 
I just use a boat priming bulb between the carb and fuel pump. Squeeze to suck the fuel from the tank, through the fuel pump and into the carb. When the engine starts, the engine pump will push the fuel through the bulb while it's running. When done, remove the bulb and replace with regular 5/16 line.
 
Hook a electric pump up permanently with a momentary switch and a fuse. You may need it to prime the carb later on when the gas evaporates from heat soak and sitting.

fuel pump.jpg


fuel priming pump.jpg
 
Some muscle car or truck (I read somewhere) had a facet jiggler type pump ^^^ between the tank and the stock mechanical fuel pump. It just pushed fuel right through the mechanical pump under pressure, ie 3psi. Then when the motor kicked over the mechanical pulled it right through the jiggler. check valves were pointed the right way for this. They worked in tandem or by themselves. Nice redundency and great for cold starts.
 
dartfreak75 said:
But there is a chance it would die while the line is priming i would have to continue to pour gas in the vent while holding the throttle and keeping the rpms above 2000. Seems easier and safer to have the carb and lines full already
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What carb are you using? Most float bowls hold enough fuel they will run with no load plenty long enough to fill the lines. Even if you have an OE style fuel pump.

If for some reason it does run out of fuel, just let it die and figure out why the pump isn’t pulling fuel.

Seems to me you are making work and spending money for no reason. In fact, if you just want to fire the engine and break it in, use a 5 gallon gas can beside the car and run a hose under the car and into the gas can. Fill the bowls and start and break it in. Much cheaper and easier than what you want to do.
 
Your way over thinking it...
Just fill the carb up...
It's plenty...
Put a clear filter on going to the carb..
Stop spending money...
Your just breaking in the cam and that's why you put all the cam lube on it...
 
Also put a good splash of fuel down the carb as the engine has never had fuel in it before...
 
If I need to run an engine for a while with no fuel tank or pump or whatever, I have a plastic fuel tank, taken from some bratty kid's Honda XR80, that I hang from the hood. The tank even has a little - dare I say - petcock that allows me to turn the gas flow on and off. But plumbing in an electric pump until the mechanical pump can get primed? I van honestly say I would only do that if I were very, very, very lonely.
 
Safety note here make sure you put the air filter on securely before you start it. I know it's kind of a pain putting a splash of gas and then getting the air filter on but at this point the timing is likely not to be perfect and you could get a backfire and burn down everything you've worked for>>>
 
gregcon said:
I have a plastic fuel tank, taken from some bratty kid's Honda XR80, that I hang from the hood
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A friend did that and the strap attaching the tank to the hood caught on the fan and slammed the hood down on his back. Worst part is it bent the hood.
 
yellow rose said:
I just fill the float bowls with fuel using a squirt bottle. Every carb has a vent, so out the fuel in there and start it.
Click to expand...
Basically exactly what I did with mine, had a new tank in it as well with only a couple gallons from my lawnmower gas can. As soon as it fired up it started pulling fuel from the tank, it doesn't take long, I have a clear plastic filter on it so I could see it, I think it might have died once, but didn't need to be re-primed, I just closed the choke flap. You're more likely to have timing issues to work out than be lacking in fuel. Just my .02.
 
With a completely empty fuel system, I fill the tank at least 1/4 of the way, use a MightyVac to pull gas up to the fuel pump (or blow a bit of air in the fuel tank), and fill the carb float bowl(s). Assuming you have a good fuel pump, it will start and run just fine without it dying on you.
 
dartfreak75 said:
But maybe a good one. I am concerned about the break in procedure and getting the engine started quickly. M
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You brought up a good point and there's several ways to skin that cat

Filling the carb bowl is likely the easiest, in my case the car already uses an electric pump. You can also "rig" a smaller tank even gravity feed, just be careful and "safe."

The greater point is that IT IS IMPORTANT with a cam break in, to get the engine fire quickly, with minimal fuss and worry

1...Make certain the cooling system is filled and bled. On a Mopar V8 pull the heater hose on small block, the one on the intake, or that same hose at the heater. Fill system, make sure you "have water" at the hose, and reconnect. Save a bit to top off

2...Get timing set CORRECTLY. You can set timing on the starter. I used to "know" that, Crackedback has pointed this out several times

3..Make certain automatic has at least a safe amount of fluid if it's a new unit. Same of course for stick

4...Make certain trans is in NEUTRAL (not park) and that wheels are BLOCKED

5...In general make certain area is safe and free from hazards, both physical, electrical, and flammable. If you are in a shop/ garage make sure there is actually adequate ventilation for you
 
cudamark said:
With a completely empty fuel system, I fill the tank at least 1/4 of the way, use a MightyVac to pull gas up to the fuel pump (or blow a bit of air in the fuel tank), and fill the carb float bowl(s). Assuming you have a good fuel pump, it will start and run just fine without it dying on you.
Click to expand...
Should have done that with my 273 but I assembly lubed the heck out of it and pre-lubed the oiling system. With a Magnum starter and a fresh battery it spun over plenty long but was ok when it lit.
 
I was going to say like Cudamark said. Use a vacuum brake bleeder/Mighty Vac to get fuel up to mechanical pump.
The small inline elec pumps look good too.
Dad n I were in the same boat worrying about 1st fire up. Make sure carb is a known good one.
 
"A friend did that and the strap attaching the tank to the hood caught on the fan and slammed the hood down on his back. Worst part is it bent the hood."

The forces of Darwinism never rest.
 
I pressurized the fuel tank with an air blow nozzle at the filler neck, it doesn't take very much pressure to do the job.
 
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