Torsion rod torsion rod adjusters...

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Cuda416

Cuda416

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Installed new poly bushings and new pivots on our LCA's and things went well. Everything moved great etc. Mounted everything up today, torqued the pivot nuts and now the torsion rod "socket" and adjuster arm, won't budge. Seems like it just needs to be "worked" and get grease into it but wanted to make I didn't mess something up. Is it normal for these to be so tight at first?
 
be more specific, is the car up on stands or is it on the ground? is the engine in it? Did you follow the FSM? When you say "pivot nuts" are you talking about the torsion bar adjusters?
 
lilfontleroy said:
be more specific, is the car up on stands or is it on the ground? is the engine in it? Did you follow the FSM? When you say "pivot nuts" are you talking about the torsion bar adjusters?
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Fair enough, First and foremost, I made the mistake of not reading the FSM. Lesson learned and I think I know what's going on but here it is..

Car is on a lift.
Engine is in

When I say pivot nuts, I should have said Pivot Pin nuts. When we tightened the pivot pin nuts that hold the pivot pins into the k-frame, the adjusters spin towards the engine. I didn't think anything of it until I couldn't move it back into the correct position.

After thinking about this (I'm not near the car right now) I think what we should have done, was left the LCA's hang, install the torsion rods, THEN tighten the pivot pin nuts.

Then after the car is down, adjust the ride height as normal with the adjusters.

Does that all make sense?
 
Cuda416 said:
Fair enough, First and foremost, I made the mistake of not reading the FSM. Lesson learned and I think I know what's going on but here it is..

Car is on a lift.
Engine is in

When I say pivot nuts, I should have said Pivot Pin nuts. When we tightened the pivot pin nuts that hold the pivot pins into the k-frame, the adjusters spin towards the engine. I didn't think anything of it until I couldn't move it back into the correct position.

After thinking about this (I'm not near the car right now) I think what we should have done, was left the LCA's hang, install the torsion rods, THEN tighten the pivot pin nuts.

Then after the car is down, adjust the ride height as normal with the adjusters.

Does that all make sense?
Click to expand...
I don't recall the exact correct sequence but it does sound like you need to go back to step one and redo it.. get that FSM out! :thumbsup:
 
Well, seems my son figured it out. Cookin' with gas now.

He had to loosen the pivot, then smack the LCA with a rubber mallet. Once loose, he was able to rotate it, get the torsion rod installed, then re-tighten the pivot. We'll pay attention when we lower the car but I think it's good to go now.

Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
 
IF you used the Poly graphite bushing vs OE style rubber with steel sleeves then it doesn't matter when you tighten that pivot shaft nut. OE bushing has to be tightened when car is sitting on wheels and ride height set. Remember those Poly LCA bushings offer zero dampning...
 
dadsbee said:
IF you used the Poly graphite bushing vs OE style rubber with steel sleeves then it doesn't matter when you tighten that pivot shaft nut. OE bushing has to be tightened when car is sitting on wheels and ride height set. Remember those Poly LCA bushings offer zero dampning...
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Poly graphite bushing are exactly what we used, thanks!
 
dadsbee said:
IF you used the Poly graphite bushing vs OE style rubber with steel sleeves then it doesn't matter when you tighten that pivot shaft nut. OE bushing has to be tightened when car is sitting on wheels and ride height set. Remember those Poly LCA bushings offer zero dampning...
Click to expand...

Poly bushings do not offer "zero" damping. A lot less than rubber, sure. But not zero. Even the Delrin bushings I'm running aren't "zero" damping, they're not a steel bearing. Hell even a solid bronze or aluminum bushing still has the ability to absorb some shock (albeit small).

But you don't need damping at the LCA pivot anyway. That's why you have shocks, that's literally the job they do. Let them do the job they're supposed to do, and take the slop out of the system at a critical location.
 
Tighten at ride height. As with most other suspension parts.
 
pishta said:
Tighten at ride height. As with most other suspension parts.
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As already stated, not necessary with poly LCA bushings. Only needs to be done that way with rubber LCA bushings.
 
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