Dartin for Divorce

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DentalDart said:
This is very true. With all the help here I'm going to be one of the cranky old bastards in no time! Not directed at anyone and no offense to anyone you're all amazing and I appreciate every word of advise.
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Im not cranky:lol:
 
Phreakish said:
Modern cars have us spoiled. Old cars were always more like operating machinery than what we call "driving" today. Get used to the quirks for now and then make changes if it actually causes you trouble.

You can always lower your shift points by slightly rolling out of the throttle to help "nudge" the transmission to shift when you want it to. It's a skill that you pick up by driving old heaps ;)
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69_340_GTS said:
Yep, that's how you had to drive some of the old Torqueflites. I (partially) learned to drive on a '68 Dart /6-torqueflite, and that's what my Grandma told me to do with the gas pedal. Funny how you remember stuff like that from almost 50 years ago, isn't it?
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Thats kind of what I was doing at one point yesterday.

I need to be happy with where its at. I found these cheetah vbs for cheap, im going to get one. See if it works better and like I said start saving to do the transmission with a proper tc and governor.
 
Just save up for the 4 speed swap, you won’t regret it. It’s kind of expensive for all the parts but the fun factor out weighs it.
 
Dartsun said:
Just save up for the 4 speed swap, you won’t regret it. It’s kind of expensive for all the parts but the fun factor out weighs it.
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I saw complete a body 833 setups in Vegas about twice a year for decent prices. I paid $800 for mine with all the parts, shifter, linkage etc. The gearbox was in good shape, but did need bearings (seller claimed it was rebuilt, he lied - of course). The manual transmissions are very simple and easy to rebuild - highly recommend doing it yourself if you can get a box that's in good shape to start with.

The swap was relatively easy despite having to cut open the floor. My only regret has been being too cheap to replace my carpet with a properly molded 4spd kit. One of these days...
 
I found a 4 speed swap lol... kind of. The pedals for 150 w/ hump. Then I've seen a couple of a 833s. The one I posed above was for a 64 so it says 1 year only, flange not slip yoke? But it is only 400 lol
 
Phreakish said:
I saw complete a body 833 setups in Vegas about twice a year for decent prices. I paid $800 for mine with all the parts, shifter, linkage etc. The gearbox was in good shape, but did need bearings (seller claimed it was rebuilt, he lied - of course). The manual transmissions are very simple and easy to rebuild - highly recommend doing it yourself if you can get a box that's in good shape to start with.

The swap was relatively easy despite having to cut open the floor. My only regret has been being too cheap to replace my carpet with a properly molded 4spd kit. One of these days...
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Drive around till you find a building or house under construction. Borrow a piece of carpet and call it a day.
 
Dartsun said:
800$ would be a killer deal, here in Oregon everything is way taxed out with little mopar parts for sale.
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Some people think old car parts are worth their weight in gold, but many folks just want 'junk' gone. Sometimes you really gotta dig to find the deals. I found my 833 in Vegas after talking with a few folks at a driveline shop - they hooked me up with a guy who had just finished his swinger and then got t-boned by a kid on their phone, and he was parting out the car cheap after he got a decent insurance settlement from it.

I've seen 2-3 OD a body 833's here in N. Idaho, and at least 2 non OD A body 833's. One was asking $1800 just for the box, and at the other end was a guy swapping an auto into a car for his daughter and had the whole shebang (from pedals to yoke) for $750. So it just depends. I should have grabbed the cheap one, but I wanted new shocks and other parts for my car more than I needed a spare trans.
 
Phreakish said:
Some people think old car parts are worth their weight in gold, but many folks just want 'junk' gone. Sometimes you really gotta dig to find the deals. I found my 833 in Vegas after talking with a few folks at a driveline shop - they hooked me up with a guy who had just finished his swinger and then got t-boned by a kid on their phone, and he was parting out the car cheap after he got a decent insurance settlement from it.

I've seen 2-3 OD a body 833's here in N. Idaho, and at least 2 non OD A body 833's. One was asking $1800 just for the box, and at the other end was a guy swapping an auto into a car for his daughter and had the whole shebang (from pedals to yoke) for $750. So it just depends. I should have grabbed the cheap one, but I wanted new shocks and other parts for my car more than I needed a spare trans.
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Where about in northern Idaho you at? My old platoon sergeant friend been bugging me come visit he lives in Kamiah Idaho.
 
Updates- the good and the bad..

The good first- i loosened and re-tightened the front band... finger tight and 1 turn out. Then I set the throttle cable and idle speed to 750-800 rpms. Then set KD to no slack. Set the idle screws to factory specs. Then set the secondary door to factory specs, when at factory I tightened it like 2 turns tight.

Took it for some driving. Had to make the KD a touch tighter with the little adjusting nuts. 1-2 shift is around 22mph and 250p rpms, 2-3 shift is around 45mph and roughly 3k rpms. No flare and I can make it shift a touch earlier if I let off the throttle a bit for the 2-3 shift.

Right now I'm getting a slight hesitstion (no bog) when in 3rd and I go WOT, but I'm assuming its because... its kicking down into 2nd gear and the hesitation is just the time it takes to downshift :thumbsup::steering: power is good, I have traction and don't spin tires :( so that will have to be corrected at some point lol.

The bad- I'm done adjusting it. My OCD/ADHD is making me want to have it all 100% perfect, but its a 51yr old car transmission with only a 200 dollar rebuilt 2500 stall stock 11in converter. There is no perfect with my car at this time.

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Dartsun said:
Where about in northern Idaho you at? My old platoon sergeant friend been bugging me come visit he lives in Kamiah Idaho.
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Post falls area, about 3 hrs north of Kamiah. You should take him up on a visit, beautiful area. I love living up here, even the snow.
 
DentalDart said:
Updates- the good and the bad..

The good first- i loosened and re-tightened the front band... finger tight and 1 turn out. Then I set the throttle cable and idle speed to 750-800 rpms. Then set KD to no slack. Set the idle screws to factory specs. Then set the secondary door to factory specs, when at factory I tightened it like 2 turns tight.

Took it for some driving. Had to make the KD a touch tighter with the little adjusting nuts. 1-2 shift is around 22mph and 250p rpms, 2-3 shift is around 45mph and roughly 3k rpms. No flare and I can make it shift a touch earlier if I let off the throttle a bit for the 2-3 shift.

Right now I'm getting a slight hesitstion (no bog) when in 3rd and I go WOT, but I'm assuming its because... its kicking down into 2nd gear and the hesitation is just the time it takes to downshift :thumbsup::steering: power is good, I have traction and don't spin tires :( so that will have to be corrected at some point lol.

The bad- I'm done adjusting it. My OCD/ADHD is making me want to have it all 100% perfect, but its a 51yr old car transmission with only a 200 dollar rebuilt 2500 stall stock 11in converter. There is no perfect with my car at this time.

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That sounds about perfect! What more could you want? LOL. Maybe fine tune the air door and accel pump a bit more in the future. Otherwise just drive it, check the plugs and oil occasionally..
 
Phreakish said:
That sounds about perfect! What more could you want? LOL. Maybe fine tune the air door and accel pump a bit more in the future. Otherwise just drive it, check the plugs and oil occasionally..
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I checked the oil last night and today... needed to add 1 qt. Plugs, I havent checked in a while.... I'll probably need a new set...

The accelerator pump, would you lean it out? How do you know if you should lean it out or not?
 
DentalDart said:
I checked the oil last night and today... needed to add 1 qt. Plugs, I havent checked in a while.... I'll probably need a new set...

The accelerator pump, would you lean it out? How do you know if you should lean it out or not?
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Hard to describe. Usually I just try more or less and see which makes it better or worse, or less worse and then go in the direction of better..
 
Phreakish said:
Hard to describe. Usually I just try more or less and see which makes it better or worse, or less worse and then go in the direction of better..
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Oh.. well I'll have to probably tune my carbs air fuel mixtures before messing with the acc pump to get it all optimal, I'm assuming at least.
 
DentalDart said:
Oh.. well I'll have to probably tune my carbs air fuel mixtures before messing with the acc pump to get it all optimal, I'm assuming at least.
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The good thing is, adjusting the idle mix really only affects the idle some and won't make much if any impact to your kickdown or accel needs.
 
DentalDart said:
My OCD/ADHD is making me want to have it all 100% perfect
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Haha, I worked with a guy that had seriously bad OCD. He had many a sign/note/reminder all over the place to not let the perfect become the enemy of the good. :D
 
halfafish said:
Haha, I worked with a guy that had seriously bad OCD. He had many a sign/note/reminder all over the place to not let the perfect become the enemy of the good. :D
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I've had to remember than in school all the time. Same with some of the smaller projects on the car. I have to know when to stop trying to make things better.

Wish wives would learn that too... Us husbands are already so perfect we can't get any better lol
 
DentalDart said:
I did not know this. Ok let's lean it out and take it for a drive tomorrow :D
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Engines misfire when lean, but not when rich. It's best to stay a little rich than a little lean.

I once figured out that if the idle mix is lean, the engine will tend to hang on the high side of idle as you coast to a stop. If it's rich, it'll bog a bit at a stop and then idle up to a stable rpm. If it's too lean, it'll struggle to stay running at idle...

I've used this on most of my motorcycles and several cars to excellent results.
 
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